it rides like a bag of dicks as it is
truf.
i want an extended cab. or at least bucket seats.
My shitbox’s havent moved or recieved a cent. the good projects have attention now. Infact I finally made a profit off one of my personal projects. I took my own advice about 2 years ago!
depends on too much to even go into this here! lol but yeah, any way ya slice it you drive around on 1 inch of bump travel and it will ride like a brick shit house! But hey its maaadddd low!
if it rides like shit stock, replace the probably blow out shocks at all 4 and replace bushings and balljoints as needed.
And those things bagged out front with good shocks and proper bags, canti-4linked out back with good shocks… at ride height actually fell better than stock. Its all in how ghetto/proper you do it.
im not going to bag it. i may drop it about 2 inches all the way around with some caddilac srx wheels, if i can get a set cheap enough.
do a spindle up front, dont fuck with the springs, and DO replace the shocks if they are shot or cheap shit units. Just do a block out back to match and also replace the shocks. Check your bump stop, if its 5 inches long, cut it down to 3. if your constantly smashing it, you will fell it. in that case notch it.
it should ride better than it does now, if it really rides like dick.
and those lug patterns dont match btw. SRX wheels VS your truck
yeah i was gonna just torsion key drop it till i wanted to do the spindles.
and i checked the lug patterns. you’re right. i figured like most GM 6 lugs that it was 5.5 on 6, but the SRX is 4.5 on 6 for some reason.
all the key does is take preload off the front. Softens it up, weight of the vehicle brings the truck lower. What that will also do is make it more likly you will hit a dip, pot hole, etc, where normally the stiffer spring rate would have supported the truck and it would be fine… you will bottom out alot easier.
Same as torsion bar lift “kits”… it spins it up stiffer to put more preload on the suspenion. the weight on the front end didnt change so it lifts it up. This makes it ride like a brick becasue the suspension doenst compress as it should over bumps. it also stresses the bar and makes it more likly that it could crack.
Spindle up front. it will drop it 2 inches, and NOT effect spring rate… ie it will ride the same as it does now.
methinks i’ll worry about putting shocks and replacement body parts on it first.
like I said originally. Fix it to drive it as a solid runner, get to work and save for a worth while investment. I dont like telling people what to do, but I will share my “opinion” when I can to save people from hopefully making the same mistakes I did!
$250 gets you spindles, that wne you want to sell the truck back as stock, or wreck it, you can sell back on ebay used for $150+ in a week. $30 for the block and new longer PROPER ubolts out back. -$300 will lower it enough to be noticable and not ride like a bag of smashed dicks, and more importantly its all sellable when your done with the components.
I’ve been putting these off for a while now because I really wanted to get some stuff paid down, but decided to say screw it and picked up some goodies for the bike.
Vance & Hines twin slash cut staggered pipes:
Cobra Fi2000 PowrPro Auto-tune programmer:
As soon as these come in the bike is going under some pretty good surgery. The ugly a$$ (and crappy sounding) audio system is coming off, the RFID keyless ignition is going in along with the programmer and the exhaust, and the entire bike is getting a full detail to get her ready for the season.
Hell yea dude. I wanna get that cobra power tuner and Cobra pipes for my bike too. But I might have to wait a year
My new place in Latham…
Nice man.
got your address off crmls…
will be ringing and running.
:rofl
That shit’ll get you shanked around my part of town.
Or at least get a fat kid chasing you.
Nice man!!
Today’s ebay purchases:
Canon 17-40mm f/4L
Canon 135mm f/2L
Junk.
dicked me over hard