So my inspection expired because my ECU needs to reset itself which can take up to 2000 or 3000 miles according to my inspection place. Of course NY inspection is now tied to registration thanks to big brother computers and they are rejecting my renewal. My question is WTF I am supposed to do to make it right? I cannot drive the car but I need to drive the car for thousands of miles to reset it. I fucking hate NY and can’t wait to get out of this shithole state. (Can you tell I just spent 2 days at DMV for other nonrelated issues?)
I really need to get a dealer license and be done with this shit.
Get a 10 day :lol:
Register the car in your wife’s name. That’s what I did when I had my Bmw. Ses light was on for no cats.
Buy a dyno for your siq barn, put the car on that for a few thousand miles 
Dad has this issue with the car he keeps in Florida. Can’t re-reg it due to no inspection.
Few thousand miles?! Never heard of that before. Maybe a couple drive cycles which is usually not just mileage dependent
What is the year/make/model of this vehicle?
get an llc in montana and register them there, no inspection and cheap tags, also no sales tax lol
I am this close to the Montana thing or just becoming a dealer. I really want to just GTFO of NY and move to Wyoming but…
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Then what? I get a 10 day sticker? I need a one year sticker. 
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Hmmmmmm.
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I drove it for months last summer. No check engine light, just a code.
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2014 Audi RS7.
What was the code? I would dump the codes and drive it until most of the monitors are set. You will be fine if 1 monitor is not set…
That is what I have been doing but now I can’t drive the car because they essentially yanked my reg.
I take it to the inspector every once in a while, he plugs it in and he says, “Nope, bring it back in another couple weeks.”
get a cheap obd bluetooth dongle and check the readiness monitors yourself. Then once they are good drive directly to the inspector and do not shut the engine off.
I’ve used this one for years: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NPAORC. Works great with the torque free app.
edit: also find out what the actual drive cycle is then do that.
It’s not 2,000 or 3,000 Miles. It’s a drive cycle. It can be 15 miles or it can be 150 Miles, but definitely not 2000+ Miles. NYS will allow one monitor to not be “ready” and still pass inspection. Are you taking this to an Audi dealership? They might be able to use a vag-com to force a monitor. I can find out tomorrow.
Assuming this is for the audi, I think it’s something like this (this is an older one I found).
The Audi OBD-II drive cycle is an eight-step process. An explanation of each step is provided below. Total drive cycle time is 12 minutes.
NOTE: Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the oxygen sensor (O2S) heater monitor may not run.
Step 1: Cold Start — The ECM determines the presence of a cold start by comparing the engine coolant temperature to the ambient air temperature during startup. The engine is considered cold when:
• Engine coolant temperature is below 122°F.
• Engine coolant and intake air temperatures are within 11°F of each other at startup. During this period, the O2S heater, misfire, AIR, fuel system, and EVAP monitors run.
Step 2: Idle 2 1/2 Minutes — Turn the air conditioning (A/C) and headlights on to help the misfire monitor—the additional electrical loads help even out combustion pulses. During this period, the O2S heater, AIR, EVAP, misfire, and possibly fuel system (if operating in closed loop) monitors run.
Step 3: Accelerate — Prior to accelerating, turn off the A/C and headlights (if you had them on during step 2). Open the throttle halfway until you reach 55 mph. During acceleration, the misfire, fuel system, and EVAP monitors run.
Step 4: Steady State Cruise 3 Minutes — During this portion of the cycle, the O2S, AIR, EGR, EVAP, misfire, and fuel system monitors run.
Step 5: Decelerate — Gradually coast down to 20 mph without applying the brakes. Also, on manual transmission vehicles, remain in high gear and do not press the clutch. During this period, the EGR, EVAP, and fuel system monitors run.
Step 6: Accelerate—Apply ¾ throttle until reaching 60 MPH. During acceleration, the misfire, fuel system, and EVAP monitors run.
Step 7: Steady State Cruise 5 Minutes — During this period, the CAT, O2S, AIR, EGR, EVAP, misfire, and fuel system monitors run.
Step 8: Decelerate — Gradually coast down to 0 mph without applying the brakes. Also, on manual transmission vehicles, remain in high gear and do not press the clutch. During this portion of the Drive Cycle, the EGR, EVAP, and fuel system monitors run.
^I was going to recommend googling the procedure for that particular vehicle to set the readiness monitors, good call Jeller
Thanks guys!
I am not driving the car yet (although I was supposed to drive in the parade today, wasn’t sure about weather).
Maybe I can try that technique tomorrow but then I am out of town for a while ( Banff skiing ).
Maybe the next week but then my reg expires before I go to Florida for a week… First World Problems.
I realize it is not technically mile related but the guy said it could take a couple thousand miles. If that makes sense.
I can take a while depending on the driving type you do normally for sure. Just jumping on the highway for a bunch of miles nor a bunch of short around town trips won’t probably do it either. The audi ones are not the worst actually, the Porsche ones are if I recall correctly, actually taking hundreds of miles to complete or some BS like that.
All I was trying to get at is at least the car will have a proper registration. An inspection ticket isn’t so bad if you go over the 10 day.
you will not be able to un-register it and re-register it and get a 10-day, at least they didn’t let me when mine was expired for a couple weeks.
their solution was to drive it illegally, or sell the car…
That’s one of the most DMV things I’ve seen in a while.