K trannys are bullitproof when u put a diff in them CM said there on the civic SI tranny at 950whp
time and money are the questions you need to ask yourself before making a decision
just buy my spare 3sgte 
he’s not trying to go slow :finger:
Go with the B series. H are descent but definently not a B.
you find me any H series tranny that can handle power and shit like a B series, then maybe i’ll say it’s a decent motor.
i think sailor pretty much summed it up as far as i feel, except i want to boost a K-series in a hatch/integra.
:eek4: That’s damn impressive.
Wray and I were taking. K series interests me, but it seems like there’s more knowledge and parts around about B series. This is the first time I’ve ever tried anything like this. I’ve built a 2.3 Ford HSC motor, but never a high boost/high compression app.
eg + Kboost = mucho dinero in turbo + tuning on top of Sailor’s estimate, but it would be really sweet. Big cube + high volume of boost…
Which is why I’m posting questions like this and talking to people who blow these up like it’s their job 
…not what I want to do: I’d like to hear all the angles so I get a good enough picture for what I will eventually do and understand the ins-and-outs of the various things that could be done.
I would love to do a turbo K in my hatch, but not until the price comes down. I can have a built B for the price that I’d have in just swapping a K. Plus the built B is just a drop-in. No parts to buy. the built B will get me to my goal…a stock K won’t.
personally ide go B series. due to the fact that everybody has parts for them.
i currently have a D16y8 full turbo built in my EK right now. but my next step is a b18c gsr full build.
H22’s suck there too heavy unless your building a drag car. “point and go!” yoi cant turn too good with a h22 youll be nose heavy. " i swapped one also and it was more problems than anything"
K series are for the rich kids this year. wait about 2 years then the K20a’s will be as cheap as the B16’s … mount kits will be cheaper also.
I’m not going H, F or D based on what I’ve read about those series.
If I go B, it would be really cost effective. So much of this stuff is just “around” that building it would be relatively cheap and easy.
If I go K, I’d have to source a complete K24A1 (accessories and all that good stuff) and a complete K20A/K20A2. And I mean complete: trans, accessories, computers, wiring harnesses, etc. I don’t want to get half way thru a swap and discover I need some dealer only part that costs $400 (like a K24 timing set).
If anyone has these 2 items, complete, shoot me a PM: I’m curious what you would want for them.
sheesh… typical honda owners
I did the H-swap into an eg coupe back before hardly anyone had done the swap just to do it. The torque was nice as was the fact it was all oem. The low sitting oil pan, front heaviness of the car, cv joint eating, etc. was not. Since then I have done built up 1.8 and 2.0 B-series all-motor set-ups that would annihilate the bigger H22 motor in a straight line or twisties. Even a built H would still be front heavy and have tranny issues that none of the B swaps had even revving well over 9000 rpms.
Also, depending on what the car is going to be used for the bigger displacement motors such as the H22 and K24 are not necessarily the way to go over the B18/B20/or K20 as the bigger motors put out nice dyno numbers but a ton of torque down low in the powerband in fwd honda is pretty much only good for burnouts on the street or large slicks at the track. On the other hand a 2 liter that screams from 6000-9500 rpms can be very fast on the street and still get it done at the track.
That’s sounds about right for the swap, but you’ll most likely need to add in $1000 for hondata K-pro (to allow for tuning the k24/Type S combo and eliminating immobilizer) and $500 for mounts (unless custom fabbing your own). Also a spare set of axles would be a good idea to keep around as I haven’t checked the combinations that work in say a K swapped EK but I’m pretty sure PepBoys doesn’t stock them for those times when one happens to go and you need one like yesterday.
Hasport has Kswap axles for $300 if you buy them with the mounts. So tack that onto the total bill too.
Who knows. Maybe I’ll go K in the daily once prices drop on the accessories. I just can’t justify it right now. I know if I pop a Bseries…I can find parts for a reasonable price right now.
I prefer the B or K series, but isn’t there a H to B adapter for the H22? I remember hearing about people making B series trannies bolt up to H22’s.
yeah I personally thought about going that route…BUT thats a decent amount of loot and work to have it fit well in the EK ( for example )
People make the tranny problems in the h/f’s to be way worse than they really are. I’ve had exprience with TONS of h/f’s and never had any of the problems people talk about. Its all hype to downplay the h’s. :sadwavey:
I’ve seen H2B setups and though it moves the motor to place the axles better, its totally screwing the weight balance of the motor up. Most people that i’ve seen do it use it to go in a straight line. Also, the cost of that ghetto adapter kit is rediculous.
My h22 in my rhd ferio, i rebuilt quick style and beat the living piss out of. I shift at 9500+ and throw it in corners like i’m driving a z06. Out of corner torque i have yet to see in a B. I like usable power, not peak power you get for 1-2k rpm. :greddy:
yea but most people arent swinging hondas into turns and need out of turn torque, there are a few people here that autox but most of the honda guys are straight line folks and we have problems already with traction we dont need all that torque, and plus he is trying to move a gutted EG not a prelude or accord
Yes, it’s going to be a drag race application mainly. But I don’t want to limit the swap’s resale later (if I’d need to sell if for some unforeseen reason) by having something that’s hyper-expensive, unreliable, quirky or unpopular.
BTW <- thanks for all the info from everyone so far.
a b for all drag is definitly not going to make the torque to have traction problems, thats a fact. I presume it doesn’t take gobs of HP to move a gutted hatch around anyway.
I might even say go the opposite route… do a D16y5, z6 head, y8 jingerbread and put a gt30r on it… forged guts or not.