Obviously you’ve never driven a B that has been built up very much. My all-motor 2L B set-up would destroy pure street tires and destroy BFG drags almost as bad. It also would spin 22" slicks quite easily (never ran bigger ones). Vince’s 2.2+L B setup was even worse. A built 1.8 set-up on the other hand doesn’t really have those problems off the line. As for forced induction B set-ups, traction has long been the limiting factor as silly high 1/4 speeds with high ET’s have been common fwd problems for a long time.
i’m gonna go ahead & say you’re wrong on that.
gearhead has probably driven every type of popular honda setup there is…or close to it.
I made 360ft/lbs on my b
slow civic made over 400 with a ls head
like gearhead said torqe creates traction loss i wish i made 1000hp and 120 tq
I know he has driven a lot of set-ups, so have I. His statement still makes no sense thus why I question if has driven any well built 2L all motor set-ups
A decent running stock h22 motor can light up the tires pretty easily, as does say a supercharged 1.8, as does a mild 2.0 all-motor set-up. I built and drove those three set-ups back to back to back and they all felt amazingly similar down low and had the rather uniqie ability for a honda to be driveable pretty much in 3rd gear wherever you went without needing to downshift looking for power. A more seriously built 2L (my last set-up) can seriously spin the hell out of anything short of a full slick, and even then can still have problems getting the power down due to the inherent problems with a FWD set-up.
stop playing around put a evo motor in it 500+whp on the stock internals ur done. hahahahahahaaha
u can probably build an ls motor the cheapest. even on the stock internals boosted make 300whp run 12’s with good mph. cheap!! then if u want some good flow boltup the B16/type R head. buy pistons/rods and a girdle and have all the vtec glory cheap. u can approch it in two steps stock ls to get runnin with boost then go for the full build and make real power cheap later
ahahah checking back in. This is worst than the Import vs. Domestic post. LOL Can you guys see there are many many combinations of builds, swaps, and ways of induction on EVERY motor? You all need to start to think more well rounded, well some of you. Now let the flaming begin. LOL!
What are you considering a built-up all motor setup? If you are talking 200-210whp, then i’ve been there done that and i’m not that impressed.
11.74 is not impressive? (205whp)
u suck buy my h22 head
first off…let me sey i’m not a honda guru like half the people in the thread…i know enough to get by but can’t hold a candle to half the people in here.
see what you said there is my selling point…
a stock H, vs. a boosted 1.8 & built 2.0 = all similar
but you left out part of it, all similar down low, which is great for driving around town but rather meaningless at the track, whether a straight line track or one with bends.
Point is the B series once modified at all has essentially the same power down low as the H, which is enough to have traction problems in the fwd set-up, but the B-series motors left the H in the dust up top. But then again the H is limited in its top end by a tranny that doesn’t shift for crap at high rpms B tranny’s can go much higher. Also the B series doesn’t have any of the inherent drawbacks of the H, such as: additional weight in poor location, bad axle positioning, low ground clearance, rather small aftermarket support. Instead the B also offers huge aftermarket parts selection and availability and also a wider choice of tranny selection for selecting gear ratios that work best with a given set-up and potential use.
I would take my old fully built B18C1 over my h22 any day of the week! H’s don’t wow me like a good b motor. Just my opinion thats all.
im gonna give my two cents on this, from what little experience I have (about 7-8 months) pissing around with hondas, my ls/vtec turbo setup is tits and its even got issues, reason why i love it is because its got torque like ive never had before in a honda, becuz I have a B16 before this and i think its a blast to drive normally or like you would drive a daily car. Idk how much a tranny has to do with daily driving comfort, etc, but I have an ls tranny now with this setup opposed to my old 16 tranny and I love it.
I built the bottom end myself and its first motor I have ever done, I wasn’t expecting miracles but im still learning. Im looking into what im doing next and after looking at everything K and B options wise…im def doing a B because of the fact that I can have a sleeved 2.0 in a B and maybe some extra goodies on top of that for the price I can buy a full K20 swap, now there are prolly cheaper ways of doing it but thats from just looking on the typical online motor swap sites. Just at this point in time I think its just more bang for the buck. Not to mention the resources out there for the B. If you break it, which things do happen you out a shit load more money with a K.
And lets get back on point we dont need to be talking about driveability on the street becuz this is gonna be a drag car.
Now with the K if you do the K24 bottom with K20 head do you or should you do all the little things just like with the ls/vtec like buying the right water pump, oil pump, arp head studs, and just stuff like that? If so how much does all the nickel and dime stuff cost for the K swap? Idk my opinion is do a sleeved B and be happy with it. I love my ls/vtec and its a shit box slipping clutch and all lol. And you can probably talk to most honda guys on here and they’ll prolly tell you they love their B too.
Just my two cents on the whole thing.
:gives:
some people say cucumbers taste better pickled.
put the amount of money into it that you had in your B & that tune might change.
not fair to compare a stock H with a fully built B
weight is a myth…i’ve seen it proven that its way less of a difference then people try to say…what is it like 60lbs? max.
axle positions…all depends on mounts…mine are fine.
ground clearance…i’ll give you that…but its not horrible.
H aftermarket is def. way smaller then B, but its growing.
i don’t have problems with either setup…
but personally i like something different.
everyone & thier mother has a B in a civic.
but personally i like something different.
everyone & thier mother has a B in a civic.
if it aint broke dont fix it! every body and there mother puts a sr in a 240 so what they are good setups
Don’t you have my old H set-up with the HASport mounts? In my old coupe the pasenger side CV boot was always getting mangled and throwing grease due to the odd angle the mounts held the motor.
From what I recall it is around 60 lbs difference, but the H leans forward (as opposed to rearward in the B series) so that 60 lbs does make a big difference in handling which is a straight line should not a problem.
I also like the something different route which if why I did the H swap back when pretty much no one knew anything about them. The drawbacks I previously stated motivated me to go for something else pretty rare, a fully done all motor b-setup with all the proper accompanying goodies, ITB’s, crazy ass header, custom pistons, etc.
maybe your chassis wasn’t straight or you suspension wasn’t up to snuff.
the strut & spring combo that was on that black coupe was pretty piss poor.
like i said…mine has been fine.
we replace one of the junk axles that came with it…but beside that its been all good.
& agian…i’m not arguing for or against either.
i just think people over exaggerate the negatives of the H.
i know…its old news.
again…i’m not bashing the B.
i’d just prefer something different.
the V swap in the 240 now thats what i’d like to see.