RB

Okay so.

Today;

New plugs gapped to .34 and torqued to specs
Fresh oil change
New Z32 up stream o2 sensor
Tried my original MAF and a know good used MAF

A month ago;
Checked for vacuum and boost leaks - none found minus minor leak from throttle body and AAC valve which is NORMAL.
Cleaned AAC. Cleaned ALL vacuum lines
Adjusted timing. I advanced it IIRC to 20 or 25???
Adjusted idle speed. 850rpm

STILL idling at .82-.83 or for you JDM boys 11.7-11.9 in other words still rich

Checked ECM for codes…55 all systems go.

What the hell man? I tapped on FPR as well.

I’m seriously lost with her.

Help me out boys!!!

Well. I’m gonna get a 30-2001 sensor tomorrow and try it out.

Car smells and sounds real good now. Gauge is just fucked.

Odds are the PS fluid fucked both the ECM O2 and the UEGO O2.

Crossing my fucking fingers.

Car seems to be running mint.

Gonna try and get her back together and take her out for the weekend. Fill up the fuel and wash her before I park her for the season…if not longer.

I’m just curious how ever. Anyone with a wideband on their RB20DET…what does you gauge read at warm idle?

I’m still reading anywhere from .79 - .87

Most likely grabbing some Tomei 256 with 8.5 lift cams tonight, or tomorrow morning. Ma rethink my turbo now as I’ll have a lot more help spooling it.

Originally was going to run a 16G for quick spool but now that the cams are in the picture, not sure how much bigger I want to go. How much difference do you think it would make with the cams?

I really should go see what it’s making on the Dyno right now stockish. I’d like to see what the difference is with the cams and where the torque curve changes and by how much.

So that’ll be good.

I also got the injectors as well so…yeah, wooohooooo!

So to recap what I will be working with so you guys can help me choose the right turbo for QUICK spooling all the way up to my 9300RPM redline!! woot!!!

  • RB20DET in good shape
  • Garrett FMIC good for 475HP
  • HKS SSQV
  • Apexi 3,25" Downpipe
  • Apexi 3.25" Catback
  • GTR 444cc Injectors
  • Resistor Box
  • Nismo FPR
  • Blitz LM Intake
  • Tomei 256 PON Cams with 8.5 lift
  • 4.36 Final Drive Ratio

Question is, what turbo to run??? I think that 3076R is too big and ot of my budget. I DONT want to switch to a topmount or a aftermarket manifold, so it will have to fit with the stock bottom mount.

I’m also considering rebuilding a stock turbo and changing trim and to a steel wheel but using an RB25 Exhaust housing. What do you guys think of that? I’m not looking for MONSTER power here, remember that. I’m looking for a quick spooling track/drift weapon.

While I am aiming for 300whp, having potential for MORE would be really nice to hit the drag strip for good times.

Whatcha doods think?

10 hours left till I know. Hope it doesn’t turn into a bidding war last minute

There is a guy on here with basically stock intermals doin 10’s

ugh, 33 minutes left in the auction and there seems to be one person who wants em as bad as me…driving the price way up. From a pretty much guranteed win at 10,000 it’s now at 21,000. ugh. Fucking asshole better not be from here ot GTRC.

internal wise. set of cams and valve springs. head gasket. thats it man.

These motors take fuckin abuse.

Ditto. RB20’s can handle 350 on stock internals with just a HG and some head work easily.

So… I just took the car for a quick drive.

She’s running extremely rich under boost in first gear. (off the board on the wideband)
Seems a bit richer than normal in all other gears under boost

Still having the leaning out issue when I come to a stop.
I do not understand. I am starting to lean towards an ECM, fuel pump, or FPR
I have checked everything I can think of.
Car drives mint. Just the idling issue and when you come to a stop she leans out and stumbles.

what fuel pump you using chris? if its a walbro then you will run rich… Its way larger than a factory gtst pump elt alone GTR pump… get a adj. FPR and hae it set at what stock fuel pressure should be and it should fix your problem

Im running a GTS-T fuel pump/sending unit.

Never had a problem till late.

hmmm

So, I was going to order an AFPR for my RB. Took the plenum off to check some shit out. I noticed there is two FPR’s???

So wtf? I need to? One is on the return line, one is on the feed?
Fucking confusing Japanese shit!

I also need to know wtf the valve between the intake and plenum is? IAC? I remember having power to it a couple months ago KOEO. Now, I don’t.

Found that my purge vacuum line was off and that the plenum gasket looks like it was leaking a bit.

Looking for some insight here boys.

I’m gonna order a Nismo AFPR…I just need to know if I need two???

Damn dude… I don’t know where to start… I noticed that too… I figured that one of the FPRs was for adjusting how much fuel stays in the rail… helping the RB prevent lean out? Some insight here from Brendan would be helpful. I too wondered why there was two.

Got the 20 alllll ripped apart. Waiting on some god damn money.

Keeping the car most likely.

So…

For the MHG. They ask for measurements. either 78mm x .41" 80mm x .41" or 80mm x 51"

My gasket measures 78.9mm in diameter.

WTF???

Alright, so I guess ill bump this.

So I have my rb20 now and I am wondering about my ABS. Do you guys have working abs? or should I just remove it. But if I do remove it will there be any problems?

Thanks

You CAN maintain ABS I believe as its a separate system and it operates off a vacuum line. I am not 100% sure though so I will keep my mouth shut as all my cars were non ABS.

IIRC the S13 ABS sensor wires run through the engine harness so you’ll just have to remember to incorporate them into the RB harness.

Or be a proper person and delete the ABS since it’s shitty even when it works. There are many write-ups on deleting the ABS, it isn’t a huge deal.