I’ve looked around about my brake problem and i think its a seized slider, i just want to clarify…
So these are the sliders, correct? Do you just pull them out, Unscrew them? Once there cleaned up what kind of lube should i use?
This is what my pads looked like, the one that’s badly worn, is more worn on the top which makes me think its the top slider seized
Because of the metal rubbing on the rotor it looked like this, do you think i need a new rotor now?
those rotors and pads were done a long, LONG time ago… how did you not hear them ?
please tell me your not using imperial tools on the 240…
those rotors are dead for the simple reason that the wear rates are far too offset for new pads to function properly regardless of how you rebuild the caliper. Those rotors are double dead as your more then likely beyond the min. thickness the rotor can be turned down to
there was no loud squeaks or anything out of the ordinary up until like 2 days ago.
who cares what tools i use!
you will after you round a bolt or two and can’t find a suitable replacement in your garage.
Yes those are the sliders, Its been so long since I messed with stock calipers I have no other info for you.
EDIT: pull bacak the rubber booty and see, I think they just slide in there
oh yeah, it may be time for new rotors
What you need to do is remove the U-shaped torque member (the whole piece that holds the sliders) that’s held on by two bolts on the back side.
Once its off you can go about removing the two rubber dust boots then the sliders (or pins). You’ll likely need to get the whole thing in a bench vice and use penetrating oil to break them free. They are free floating but in your case they will be rusted into place so it may take a reasonable amount of force (and penetrating oil) to get them out.
Once they’re out you can do two things. A) buy new pins. or. B) Save money and clean them up. If you decide to clean them grab a wire brush and some brake fluid to remove the majority of rust that on them. Then sand them down with some fine grit paper untill they’re smooth again. You’ll also need to clean out the torque member itself where the pins go into. Use a round file and make sure there’s no built up crap left in there.
Once you have the pins cleaned up (or have found new ones) grease them and the dust boots really good. Re-assemble the torque member and re-install using the 2 mouting bolts.
Also, you could take the rotors to PartSource and see if they can re-surface them but chances are you’ll need new ones since they’re that far gone.
Because of what’s happened in your case, i’d agree with cgguy that you’ll need new rotors (i’d advise brand new), rebuilt sliders (should be rebuilt to ensure they don’t seize up right away again, but if you do it right and the dust boots are okay then you might be alright), replacement brake pads, and a caliper inspection to make sure that it isn’t seized either.
I just went through all of this, so if you want a set of rebuilt sliders/calipers/pads etc i’ve got some stuff for sale:
http://forums.son240sx.ca/showthread.php?t=27708
But otherwise just make sure you look at everything and do it right once while it’s all apart! 
Good luck.
wow, those rotors look like mine!!
if u need new ones, i picked up 4 drilled rotors, and 4 stainless steel brakes lines for 200$ on ebay. or you can go buy stock ones…
Once you have either cleaned up your old sliders, or bought new ones, make sure you use CALIPER GREASE to lube them up before re-assembling everything. The brake assembly will get too hot during breaking for normal grease to hold up. I think it can also hold up to water better as well, but as long as your dust boots are in good condition, that shouldent be a problem.
alright so i took the sliders out cleaned the shit out of them , lubed , etc. puut them back on with new pads, still have existing rotors , have to wait till pay day. theres no werid noises coming from the rear of the car, i only drove for like 2 mins so i didnt seem hot.
I guess the only way to see if i did it right is to wait and see the wear on the pads??
hmmm…
I wouldent drive too much with those new pads and old rotors, as the pads might wear funny, and be all screwy when you get your new rotors.
in ~ 100km you’ll need to replace those pads again if you go to new rotors… otherwise you’ll end up with the same wear patterns all over again.
I used a table top C-Clamp. 1 wiggled off easy, the other slide pin was stubborn, so i had to heat the fucker with a torch and then use the C Clamp.
well so i drove a lil more, and i could practically touch the rear passenger rotor (the ones that arn’t messed up) but i couldn’t touch the driver rear as it was to hot. WTF! so i guess i didn’t fix anything :@ anyone have refurbished calipers for sale? or should i do a brake upgrade how much would that run me?
NAPA as a ‘reman with core trade in’, usually $250-ish for a set of refurbs. ( unless nissan cores are somehow worth more then 8-9 other JDM/USDM remans. )
You probably fixed the sliders just fine. Did you check the condition of the piston on the caliper? It may too be seized. Also since you are pretty much scoring the rotor with metal on metal contact then hell yes, it should be hot!
i had to turn the piston in to fit it on with the new pads. If the piston was seized could i have pushed it in?
What do you mean? just because my rotor is screwed… i put new pads on
thanks for the link 