sounds like fun… the tires should help out … what were the 60ft’s?
84mm what comp should I go with?
60ft’s up Wednesday night, But I’m still figuring out how to drive this thing!
Got to the track at 530 and right off the bat I had issues. The first thing I noticed when I opened the hood was my oil filter dangling. The bracket I made snapped off…Luckily I had some zip ties. My first run of the night Goldenboy took that vide and we ran a 13.34 @ 110.66. Then they told me I needed a helmet and I couldn’t have any passengers. I thought my night was over then found out they keep a helmet in the tower just for these occasions. My times slowly improved during the next 8 runs. I was playing with my starts and where I would shift. The last run of the night was against a all motor LS with 15:1 compression running 117 octane. Pretty mean little car! See slip below I was in the right!
Overall it was a great time. Im happy with the times and I know there’s plenty of improving to my driving (especially my R/T’s) and a few thing I can do to the car. (like turn up the boost) This was all still on 10lbs. Then on my way home I noticed my fuel gauge dropping like crazy so I pulled into the T/A in Dansville. Popped the hood and had fuel spraying all over the place. The B&M fuel pressure gauge I had on the rail basically exploded. Another mile away I wouldn’t have made it. I removed the gauge and used a extra plug off my vac manifold to plug the fuel rail. That’s all well except now I had a hole in my intake causing my brakes not to work so well…lol
Good times!
:tup: You’re getting there
I went 83mm, 10:1, cuz i knew i’d be doing my own tuning and all that
u can just go 9:1 and have that extra margin or whatever, theres no real big diff between 1 pt of compression when ur boosting a B.
i meant 83mm in that post anyway, must’ve been a typo.
Slip looks ok, u prolly wont cut any better than a 1.9-2.0 on BFG’s…u need a set of real slicks, warm em up good, dump it at 8k, cut a 1.7 , and run your high 11 @ 120 (turn up that boost to 15psi son)
That all motor car woulda taken your lunch money up and down the 1/8th mile 
Must have been a good race looking at the slip. Youre spinning waiting for the top end to take over but you cross the line neck and neck.
I ran those BFGs on my old eg for a while and I wasnt all that impressed. Lasted maybe 2k miles if that and didnt hook THAT much better than the old style azenis. You really should get some slicks if youre going to be visiting the track frequently. I would go with 24.5.
11s are right around the corner. :tup:
Looking at the MID kit by Dartons, They offer a 81 or 84mm but both kits can go 1mm over! Ill stay with the 9:1…
Boost will be up next time I go!
That was a great race, Ill host it up tonight. What psi in the BFG’s should I be running? They are at 30psi now? Ill start shopping for a set of slicks!
Anyone know of any cheap stock rims that can handle the 24.5’s? Think I read guys were using Miata rims?
30psi??? You should be running somewhere in the teens man… you can probably go all the way down to 11-12-13 psi. I would start off higher say 18-19 and work my way down depending on how it feels.
edit- this is at the track not on the street!! lol… street you can prolly run mid to low 20s
For rims you can pick up a pair of lensos for cheap:
http://www.exospeed.com/category.php?id=427
And slicks, 8.5/24.5/13:
http://www.exospeed.com/category.php?id=138
I thought about that, then thought that might only apply when using slicks. Thanks
haha that’s gonna happen a lot
phrase that always comes to my mind is Scorpion from Mortal Kombat…“C’mhere!”
When i was running bfg drs i would air down to about 12psi launch at like 6-7000 with some slipping cut a few 1.8s that way
:word: what he said. your gunna need to do some slippin so you dont smoke the tires.
try staging as far back as possible and barely stage with the 2 yellows. wait for the next car to stage. then bring rpm’s up to 7200ish on your 2step and slowly bring clutch out so its just grabbing slightly and startting to creep ever so slightly. then when you see the last yellow light this is when you wanna start the slippage.
smoothly bring off the clutch in a fluent motion while letting off gas slowly till about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle the car will start to lerch forward and as soon as the tires stop spinnin (should only be about 2-3 rotaions) is when you want to mash on the gas. obviously clutch should be completely engaged at this point. you will need to learn your car and what it wants to do to get it dialed in nicely. If you choose to run slicks you can launch higher and slip less. with slicks you need to launch high or you will break axles.
I used to launch my allmotor hatch at 9200-9500rpm with 24.5 slicks. with around 8-9 psi of air pressure.
Wish I didn’t live so far from the track. I also wish my turbo wasn’t leaking oil. I think either the seals are shot or its not draining properly. I drained some oil out of the pan thinking that maybe the oil level is to high and or over the turbo drain. Im not sure where It should be on the dip stick with the Moroso oil pan? Im going to compare that pan with a stock one and see if its any deeper.
So my turbo has bin leaking ever since the track. I thought it was due to maybe the fittings heating up and the oil was seeping out a little. So the other day I went to tighten the bushing on the oil “in” side and broke the copper bushing. So then I thought that maybe the bushing was cracked to start with so I went down to Napa and bought another bushing. Got that all installed and its still leaking. Then I was thinking the worst, the turbo isn’t draining properly, so I started trying to figure out how much oil I had in the pan. The thing is I have the larger oil pan so Im not sure the stock dip stick is still accurate? Anyways Im pretty sure I had to much oil which wasn’t letting the turbo train which probably backed up the oil. This probably also means I cooked the bearings and the seals. Im taking it apart maybe tonight to investigate. All part of learning but this learning is getting expensive. I will most likely have to send it out for rebuild. So by me adding the larger pan and adding the oil cooler I thought the system would need that extra qrt. What I think happened was every time I change the oil not all of it gets trained and I keep adding the same amount.
Then the other issue is Im trying to get this to pass inspection and I know it will never acutely be completely legal not having a cat but I figure the fewer the deficiencies the more likely some one will be to give me the go. Right now I don’t have reveres lights, horn, PVC or EGR. I spent Saturday morning trying to figure out why my horn stopped working. Turns out the wire that goes to the horn goes thru the harness for the SRS. Now I have to find that harness and make the two connections. Not sure what Im going to do about the R-lights? Might just try tapping into the wires going to the back and add a manual switch. I just want to drive the thing!
Damn man, Good luck.