im in love
Woah Woah Woah. That GSR badge needs to go mister.
haha I stuck it on there 4 years ago and its just been there since
lol whats the pic of?
Hmmm… finally I get to see the build thread of this thing. What a fun ride…
i think they happen to be a aftermarket valvetrain he got a killer deal on
what did you end up going with?
i kno that they are supertech valves.he bought them off my buddy.I just forget the springs and reatiners
Supertech light weight valves
JG Engine Dynamics dual springs and titanium retainers
2 questions!
Since I’m rebuilding anyways and have a LS crank laying around should I replace the GSR crank for the LS crank and rods? What will this do to my displacement/ compression ratio?
I need to order new pistons so should I stay with 9:1?
So when is all said and done:
GSR stock block
LS crank
Eagle LS rods
CP 9:1 81.5mm
GSR head
Victor-X mani
65mm TB
ARP studs
Supertech valves
JG dual springs - titanium retainers
Toda cam gears
ITR cams
AFI top mount
GT35R .63/.70
44mm WG
i think you would need to use the GSR rods with the ls crank… for this stuff im not that good with…
well thanks for posting… You didnt help at all
shrek your post-
well thanks for posting… You didnt help at all
:biglol:brightned my day haha
^ Hey, another Olean member. Just noticed that, sorry that my post didn’t help either.
yes you have to use ls rods with the ls crank.
make sure you upgrade the rod bolts. and i believe you have to get the block machined to fit the ls crank because its a longer/bigger/whatever stroke
Glad to help out!
Get out…jk! Yea we should all work on my car some time. I have a buch of parts that need cleaning! Who knows how to use a wire brush?? I need to get going on that rear brake swap
So what would be the benefit of this? more torque?
I don’t mind stopping in, moving an engine or lifting a wrench here or there ain’t to hard. But honestly, it helps me learn before I get to my car 
I’m wondering that too. Cause the engine in my car has a longer stroke then the normal engine in the base models, and the SC model.
"LS crank give 33 cc more displacement, and usually about 10-30 ft-lbs more torque at the same boost level. Its worth doing. Compression on 9:1 pistons rated for a gsr crank would be a little higher, maybe 0.3~0.5:1 increase. " by Jeff Evans
Might as well…right! Still not sure what rods?
honestly, you will have traction issues ANYWAY, so unless u are going all out on a drag car, you don’t need to use the LS crank. however, the extra mid-range IS nice, but like I said, I’m not a fan of throwing different cranks into the block…cuz then u gotta check the line-bore, blah blah blah, oil squirters need to be modified (bent/moved) cuz the ls crank will interfere, blah blaah blah
IF you choose to go this route, u can either:
a) use LS rods w/ the LS crank…just use the rods of the crank you are using and you are good.
b) custom +.137 or .0137 can’t remember rods which raises the wrist pin height…makes for a better rod/stroke ratio, letting you “Safely” rev it out higher…real popular w/ the N/A Bseries builders back in the day…unnec. in my opinion for u cuz we’re talking revving it out to over 10K rpm
My suggestion is to just use the crank you have, & sell the LS crank to finance some of ur rebuild.
edit: my bad, deck heights are diff, but like i said just use the rods of the respective crank and ur good.
B20/B18A(B)= 211.84mm
B18C= 212.39mm