You can adjust the sound with different plates at the y-pipe. It could sound almost stock or wide open, or I have another idea…
A buddy of mine has Borla exhaust just like that on his TransAm and has an electric cutout that bolts right in on the right side. Adjustable angle ect and sounds sick!
Thanks bro… LoL
Thats what Im doing. Thanks for the input tho. I never heard this set up. LS1 correct? More info on his setup would be appreciated
My bad :rofl
He’s running a LT1 though…
Opinions wanted…
-Stock
-Full Bolt ons
-Nitrous
-Cam only
-Heads/Cam
-Stroker
-Blower
-Turbo
-Twin Turbo
-Combination of above ^
Do all the bold. thanks
Stallmer on Nicks name.
heads, turbo grind cam, single 88mm,(or twin 67s) nitrous.
why do you need nitrous AND F/I on a stock cubed/stock lower end motor? Dont need it.
its either go the F/I route or the N/A with Nitrous route…no point in going F/I with N20 IMO.
H/C with nitrous is going to be around the same expense as doing just a Blower or Turbo setup…and you can make around the same power on either or.
Either way we are both limited to the less than optimal first ring land depth of the stock pistons, not to mention the fact they are cast silicon aluminum instead of forged… This is the reason stock 5.3 and 6.0 blocks take a lot more abuse. Some people know the direction I want to go. Everyone else can bench race and wait.
For a turbo I think a 88mm would be a little overkill for my displacement and twin 67s a lot of overkill. I think one 67 can make enough boost to shatter my pistons.
I would do a 78
a 72 would be fine
No it would not be damnt. Forged internals,custom cam,valve springs etc etc and a 78
well a t72 would be sufficient not a bullshit cheap one a good ceramic bearing one
Anything between T72 and 78 would be great. Stock internals are cheap as I already have them… fancy that. ZO6 Cam and 317 6.0L heads. 550+hp. Thats all those pistons will handle. Although, Somebody has hit 800 on stock internals with a 130k motor.
Some may have seen me cruising about already. I love to drive my car and if you have seen my DD you would understand why. LoL. Literally drove it 6 of 7 days this past week.
I still need to get some wiring done from the T56 swap. I have no reverse lights, clutch safety switch, or cruise control shut off on clutch disengage. I also need to lengthen the wires for the speed sensor in the tail of the trans. Other than that it has been driving great.
Also could really use at the least a stock T56 tune. It idles a little low, has trouble settling after throttle input, and surges when coasting in gear at times. Also runs fat as F#CK WOT. Timing on 4L60 cars is also retarded a few degrees from the T56 cars due to the high load of the auto trans. I could be leaving anywhere from 10-30+ hp on the table. A call may have to be made to PCMs For Less, HP Tuners, or EFI Live.
Opinions, facts, and experiences welcome. Please discuss.
Sorry nothing to add on the technical tip but it’s good you got your car out already…
Too many people hiding their “toys”… :ninja
Johawk ,i had that borla system on my 98ss and it was sick,I also had mac mids too,but they came on it.Could RLMS help you with the retune of the t56.
Im sure RLMS could help me but Im not sure if a dyno tune is really neccessary on a stock car. A dealership may be a better place to start… I wish my cousin still worked at the now closed Salisbury Chevrolet.
Could they do it on a simple reflash with hpt or efi.I could be entirely wrong but i was told this info(from ls1tech) when i was gonna do a4 to m6 on my old ss.
They could… I gotta find out if they will without charging me out the A$$.