got a collapsed lifter after 1500 miles. apparently youll still have problems from time to time even when getting the best of the best. full comp cams valvetrain and 600+ dollar set of roller lifters.
calling comp cams tomorrow to see if theyll send me a new one, should be up and running again later this week.
well figure i should bring this thread back up and update it. i had gotten a new lifter warrentied from comp cams and got the truck back together and ive been driving it quite a bit. but now that its getting colder and the race season for the sled is winding down ive started working on the truck again.
i picked up some drop control arms from craigslist for 75 bucks. they were a 3" drop though and i didnt want that so i moved the pocket up 2" so theyre only a 1" drop. got em welded back together, i need to sandblast and paint and replace balljoints/bushings though. the rear will be dropped and tunnel with be clearanced for driveshaft so the rear can sit lower and a bigger tire will go in so it should have a pretty nice prostreet stance for next year.
the control arms after finishing the fab work
used a friends welder instead of mine as these were pretty thick. probably could have turned the gas down a bit but the welds will do just fine.
ugh, you still keep on insisting that i took the idea from you, yet you seem to forget that i never saw your blazer until after i swapped the v8 into mine lol
dosent matter anyways, motor has been in your blazer 3+ years and you still havent driven it let alone even start it hahaha. :smash2:
since you guys bumped this, i figure i should start updating it again.
im pretty much done messing with tuning the clutching and suspension on the sled so all im doing is riding it now, so i will be working on this again. expect to see updates this weekend.
well, im back at it again. as many of you know, work on the truck stopped between racing grass drags for hebelers and my snowmobile project. been snowmobiling alot, but finally sqeezing in time on the truck since ive been itching to work on it.
plans for this year…
-swap dash with nicer one i have.
-finish tubular lower control arms
-lower rear and fit bigger rubber in back
-tunnel floor for driveshaft clearance.
-build rear axle
-replace transmission with something better that isnt about to explode, lol
-finish hood and have painted
-port match intake
-build a set of equal length long tube headers
-change carb
-build distributor.
some things may change here and there, but thats the list to get done before spring, so i got quite a bit to do.
tonight i decided to pull the new dash down from the rafters and get it ready to go in the truck
new dash, got this from travis on here. it is literally in perfect shape. not faded, no cracks, nothing. it is now stripped down gutted and bracing behind cluster, stereo/hvac locations, etc trimmed off as much as possible.
you can buy some nice long tubes to save the work of building them. The prices are a little steep tho. I was looking at some 1 5/8’’ into 3’’ collector long tubes in the 400$ range.
I hate the shortys I have. Can’t wait to see this in person.
on a side note, i have been working on the truck, but havent taken any pictures yet. took the old dash out, and have been cleaning up under the dash. i had rewired the truck but after i hadded a few things here and there so im just cleaning up wiring and i pulled 8 circuits out of the fuse panel that werent being used, almost done with that.
alright, got some work in on this thing. yanked the dash and went to town on the electrical. pulled out a bunch of unused circuits, but left two for the future if i ever need them.
the new fuse panel diagram:
after getting the electrical cleaned up and loomed to protect it, i then coated the backside of the firewall. i also made a panel to mount the fuse panel and relays on down low under the dash. easy access. i mounted everything this way so that the dash can come out without having to unhook a single wire, and i can actually get in behind the dash if i ever need to.
started putting the carpet and interior back in, however the carpet will be coming out again to tunnel the floor for driveshaft clearance. just put it together for now to reduce the number of parts scattered around off the truck as i will need to get this back into my garage and out of the hanger before i can get into major work.
new dash mounted in there, will finish putting trim pieces and such in next time im out there.
got a little bit done tonight, decided when i put the new dash in i didnt want to mount the tach on it again, so i made a bracket to mount it on the a pillar.
truck is done for the year. cracked block, broken pistons. i think something came loose in the carb, gotta take the head off the other side and see the damage there and then dissassemble the carb to figure out what it really is. the weird thing is that it ran perfectly fine and didnt make any noise, i only discovered an issue when i found coolant in my oil.
i decided that this summer i will be caging the truck and going through the chassis. this winter i will build a blower motor. my heads are salvagable and the valve train is fine, and turns out my heads and cam will work pretty well in a boost application.
so ive been tinkering with this here and there. basically just going to work on it when i can and eventually turn it into a drag truck.
first up was more room for a wider tire. i had some bolt in frame notches in the truck from when it was slammed, decided to take them out. they came out a total of about 3/4" past the frame. so i took em out and welded up my own notches and plated the frame around the notch with 3/16". so i gained about 1/2" of clearance as i plan to run a 295 drag radial.
one side is done, working on finishing up the other side. will be welding from backside as well. going to take bed off after i finish other notch to make it easier to weld and clean up.