LOL!!!
but isnt it true that if the rear end of the car is TOO solid, won’t the rear end break loose a lot easier with a very solid chassis in the back?
i thought a lil flex in the chassis is good. obviously one wouldn’t notice a big difference in traction if the road was perfectly smooth, but once theres small bumps then its very easy to loose traction with a SOLID rear end?
or am i completly wrong, someone correct me!
thanks
^ thats a different type of solid rear end
The solid subframe bushings keep the subframe from moving.
under normal driving the subframe bushings will compress when the clutch is released and when you downshift and shift lock etc.
If your rear end suspension is too stiff and you have a beefy sway bar then your car could be to stiff and not have enough body roll causing the car to slide easier.
The only way solid bushings would make you slide easier is in the rain if you dont shift lightley because the power is more directly put to the wheels. and the solid buhings wont compress so the power is more direct similar to dropping the clutch on a car with regular subframe bushings
You want the chassis of a car as stiff as possible always, often times making the car heavier to stiffen it will improve performance, thats a big reason why good cages have so many bars (and why my cage is trash)
generally in an ideal world you want nothing moving except the springs and shocks
but in reality there is tire movement, chassis flex (to some degree) bushing flex etc etc
the solid bushings dont eliminate any wheel hop
my multi link is coming out soon. no need for it.
^Sure there is, adjustability and race alignment. How do you set camber, caster and toe without adjustable multi link?
actually having everything super stiff means your tires have to work harder, think of it like spreading a load, the more parts that give, the more they take up or absorb the force … the better your tires (say like race slicks) the more you want the load in the tires, the shittier your tires (say like monarch all-season 175/70-r13 heh) the more you want your suspension to absorb
a soft rear end is good for drag racing for that reason as well as the weight transfer
and wheel hop is usually caused by more power/traction at one wheel causing the suspension to move and the swaybar reducing grip on the other side making the power and grip transition side to side a few times until either the car is moving or the spinning tire(s) bite
now there’s two easy ways to help eliminate that, stiffer springs and shocks, and/or weaker rear swaybar
solarian… most of us drive our cars 99.9% of the time on the street. There is absolutely no reason to have “race alignment”. after 3 years i finially clued in how stupid it is to have a slammed car on the street. Hell most of the aftermarket arms dont give you enough proper adjustment anyway. Sure it looks cool when parked but it handles like SHIT, your car bounces around like its on the bump stops, and to other people scraping your exhuast and frame rails everywhere doesnt look cool.
you may want to have a proper alignment done… have you ever had a proper rear alignment done on your car?
i know i have not, i set it by eye and i beleive you did as well.
get your arms in and take them to a facility that not only has the equipment to do a proper alignment but also the experience to tell you what settings are best for your needs.
alignments can make a huge difference, i remember when i put my Azenis on they only lasted like 3 months, but that was because i had front castor and toe issues that made the wheels are ghey. in fact, i have front castor issues right now…
when i finally had a front alignment done it made a huge difference.
Well I’m putting my solid bushings in next week when my subframe goes back in. We’ll see how it feels with whiteline sways, coils and a proper alignment.
See Jesse, I learned too that I can’t drop the car as low as I’d like to without sacrificing suspension geometry. I don’t lower my car more than 2-2.5 inches. My geometry gets screwed even at this ride height but I still have good amount of suspension travel. I find the arms start to bind up if you go any lower.
I wish I could afford these:
And yes alignment is key, proper alignment can make a world of a difference.
Andrew.
^Are those arm knuckles of some kind (aftermarket), more info? Pardon my ignorance.
And how would you go about adjusting roll center once you lower the car to correct the suspension geometry
i have had 2 alignment attempts and when lowered about 4" more than stock the adjustable rear toe links dont give enough adjustment, the rucas i have dont give enough positive adjustment, the most positive camber i can get at 4in drop is about -3 camber :x
can you explain how going low low will affect suspension geometry? specifically, which arms are you talking about that will bind? LCA?
i want to drop my car significantly later on and will have proper multi-link setup which will allow me to do so. just wondering what other pieces might help improve suspension geometry as you were saying? adjustable LCA?
thanks
can you explain how going low low will affect suspension geometry? specifically, which arms are you talking about that will bind? LCA?
i want to drop my car significantly later on and will have proper multi-link setup which will allow me to do so. just wondering what other pieces might help improve suspension geometry as you were saying? adjustable LCA?
thanks[/quote]
I’m speaking of rear suspension arms
Your arms look like this when u lower the car:
\ /
when they should look like this:
_ _
Tell me which would be easier to push upwards. When you lower your car, this is the geometry that gets screwed. Yes for drifting who cares, but if you want to go fast this doesn’t help very much at all.
To correct this issue you need raised spindles like the uprights I posted.
Andrew.
Oh god Andrew… you just added another item to a_ahmed’s “build” that he knows absolutely nothing about. Shoulda just waited until he found it somewhere on ziptied instead. “Hardcore people say it’s good, so I’ll put it on my car without really knowing what it is, what it does, and why I would even want it to begin with”
i hardly noticed them
Whiteline, Energy Suspension and RS*R make full polyurethane bushing kits for s13 and s14.[/quote]
last time i checked, these kits didn’t come with subframe bushings.
there are four bushings. on my car, the two front bushings ripped all the way around. when i dropped the subframe, the inner collars stayed on the perches lol. any time i put a lot of load on the car through heavy cornering or driving in the rain and hydroplaning a bit, the front of the subframe would hop and bang on the frame.
since putting them in, the vibration isn’t loud at all. like scribbles said, you can hear the diff whine a bit more, but it’s not loud and you get used to it quickly.
just a heads up, solid bushings can be a PITA to install. you need to drop the subframe, burn out the old bushings, air chisel out the bukets, and press in the solid ones. takes quite a while to burn them out, smokes quite a bit, and smells like burnt rubber (obviously), so it’s annoying unless you’re into that sort of thing.
if you do go through with it, good luck and enjoy.
wow I wasn’t expecting this thread to get this big! One thing im worried about is snapping the subframe bolts trying to remove them. Has anyone had this happen to them? I know its a big bitch if it happens? Do you guys usually heat them up before hand or do you just zap them off with the impact gun?
id spray it with a form of release agent every morning for a week before going on with your day 
i have broken one on a parts car and it broke fairly easy.
unless your car is a rott bucket they won’t break. The studs are huge. Take impact gun to them.
Andrew.