When there’s a red light and i down shift, let’s say to second and i have the clutch all the way down. I’ll be slowly rolling and my rpm’s sometimes dip all the way down close to stalling then go to normal idle (7.5) or will stall. This also happens even when im in neutral.
At first i thought i could be my alternator because when i rev it my dash lights get brighter.
Any opinions?
Thanks,
Alex
Edit: I did remove my recirculattive bov and im waiting to put my greddy rs in. It seems that people have had the same problem when removing the recirculative bov.
Okay so i found out my problem , what i will say next most probably already know but for all the newbs like my self i will explain why you need a recirculative bov unless you get tuned to run atmospheric.
The air that you suck in from the intake gets counted by the maf but if you’re running atmospheric your losing that air without your maf knowing there fore you are running rich. That’s why i was stalling not enough air to much fuel.
Please correct me if i’m wrong, here’s a pic i found, this is how i’m going to run my bov.
you can correct this and retain your atmospheric dump by tightening the screw on your BOV. that way it only blows off under higher pressures instead of when you’re cruising at part throttle under light loads. that means all the air your maf metered stays in the manifold.
however you’ll lose the “psshhhhhhh” every time you shift.
it’ll only blow off when you’re really matting it and then suddenly let off, sometimes followed by backfire (if you’ve got no cat) caused by the momentary rich condition.
yep its all to do with the setting on the bov. spend some time adjusting the rs and it will work fine with no retune. it can be set up to blow off at very low pressure and not stall out on you. ran one for 2years with no problems once it was set up right.
