Someone knows how much hp i’ll get in the end if i install the je 87mm piston?
I am looking for the best to make my engine with as much hp possible without sleeving it!
Any adea about that?What can i do with the top to get more top end too!?
Thanks!
i’m not 100% sure… but i have heard that those pistons will give you close to 900 hp. oh, and don’t worry about the top end… you’ll have so much power in the bottom that you won’t even need anything up top… just shift through the gears faster (keep your revs under 2500rpm) and you’ll always be in “the sweet spot” (works kinda like a reverse v-tec).
hmmm be a jerk or not…i’ll choose not today, ok, here goes, pistons won’t determine how much hp you’ll make, the 1mm difference really wont make much of a noticeable difference to power.
now with that said, what is with all the kids lately with there “i want (insert motor) so i can drift and have (insert ridiculous hp) for the street”
If you have a stock setup and put any piston in your motor, the gains will be very negligible and probably not noticiable to your butt dyno.
The things that will increase power, are more boost, more fuel, more flow, more spark. Things like pistons and rods don’t make more power(for the most part) they make power reliable.
If you want more power, you need more air, crank the boost, but this only works until the turbo runs out of steam, at which point your injectors are maxed out as well, and your MAF is pretty close aswell. You want more power? upgrade your turbo, injectors, and maf; of course you’ll need something to manage them.
If you want more power in the top end, you’ll need cams, which only solves part of the problem. You still have the head flow issue, crappy rocker arms that weren’t meant to rev, valve float as rpm increases, etc etc etc.
Bottom line, pistons don’t really give you much more Hp, they make more Hp reliable, and don’t really need to be swapped out A) unless you’ve already got a hole in 1 B)you’re at a point where they have become unreliable.
Look at Dan, close to 400hp and stock pistons.
Ok!I knew all that stuff that has been said and thanks for not been a jerk!
I hate jerks!!!
Anyway!I am asking about hp with je,cp or any aftermarket piston knowing that is not only the piston that makes the hp in the end but the overall. I know that the piston depends in size such as material and all that crap tha makes it better or not for the kind of setup desared.
I asking it just because i have a motor that needs piston rings and piston so i decide to plain the hp desire in the end!For sure if pick one 86.5mm in the end is one result and if pick the 87mm will be other, i’m getting steel head gasket too,but as i said it has to be done and i am plain to get a nastty hp in the end, i have a garrett t5t6 if am not mistaking is the 76mm one plus my intercooler is not the best one but is good and has a hude size, i have a 300zx fuel pump and i am upgrading my injectors and fuel rail to 750cc, i got iridium spark plugs, 3’’ exhaust, the headers is something that i am not sure if i’ll upgrade now but it’ll be soon, yes in the end just wanna do something with a good hp!
And a really happy to see people giving me some advices and ideas!
Thanks guys!
I think what lucky is trying to say is. Building a motor and making more power is Stratigic. I can’t think of anyone on this board who has unlimited funds for there car. So we all need to pick and chose the best parts to make more power.
What he’s saying is Pistons are good for reliability but u WON’T see any real gains unless u go with a Stroker kit (which increases displacement) in the end is more for engine response not so much on the power side or u get higher compression pistons wich carries with it a danger as well.
You are supposta gain reliability with new pistons aftermarket pistons.
and dan is a prim example of this. He chose wisely on making more air flow more fuel and better boost control. and made good numbers. But everything id depending on the supporting mods.
its actually painful to try and read this thread
pistons are good for reliability?
ARE YOU KIDDING ME!?!?!?!?
who here has built a motor that has lasted 200,000+km? Anyone?
Nissan does hundreds of times a week. I’m pretty sure a nissan built engine is the most reliable thing - esspecially for son240 bargin masters
Most, built race motors are made to be rebuilt every season…
200,000 k my ass, more like 20k on a built motor…
Building an SR motor for street use, in my opinion, is a waste of cash. They have been proven time-and-time again to take 400, 500 and even 600rwhp.
For the cost of a decent motor build, I can blow-up 5 to 7 SR blocks (depends on the price Varun gives me 
)
I don’t agree with that…
Take Cal’s motor for example… We’ll see how long it lasts… but i’ll tell you a capable engine build can make a motor packed with aftermarket goodies that will last as long as an OEM motor a higher outputs…
It simply depends on the experience, the attention to detail and the materials…
Race motors last a season because they are built to last a season, not because they can’t be built to last longer…
If you go to a good builder with excellent parts and materials and build you’re motor, break it in properly, and then track it, you’ll be fine…
There are guys in CASC with motors that are 3 or 4 years old…
So don’t listen to that garbage…
Thank god, I thought I was the only one.
The awful english makes up for it though.
I agree.
Yes a stock Nissan-made motor will last longer at stock spec and tollerances. But up the power and the reliability of that motor will drop drastically.
With aftermarket parts you increase that power handling tollerance.
Sasha said a fully built race motor will last a season at say 20K kms.
Now, take a stock motor with the same power as the race motor and chances are that it will not even last half of that season.
Of course you have to take into account the condition of the block as well. If it is tired and stressed, you can put gold pistons and shit in it and it will still blow in your face.
I built mine because it blew, if it hadn’t, then I obviously would never have done it since I didn’t really need to have a built motor.
You will want to go about 0.02" over for a relatively stock output. This will take off enough of the dmage done to the cylinder wall and still retain the thickness between them. And another thing you will want to consider is compression ratio.
I would recommend my setup to anybody wanting to build an SR on a relative budget out there.
Wiseco Piston kit (with molly coated rings and wrist pins.) 8.9:1 Compression (Flat)
Balanced + Knife-edged crank
OEM Bearings
I used the stock rods just because they appeared to have litle to no stress. (and to keep cost down. - but had I replaced those as well I was looking at Eagle or Manley I-beam rods.)
For the head I ported the exhaust side. (porting the intake may result in nasty turbulence and a/f mixture so I stayed away from that since I did the porting myself as opposed to getting it done professionaly, again to keep cost down)
As said before, the SR head is pretty weak, and although I replaced all of the head crap with new OEM parts, near the end I believe the lifters were starting to go on me, (and possibly a couple of valves - was burning oil, but it was likely the turbo seals.)
anyway…long post. I’ll stop now.
good luck.
and if you have any more questions feel free to pm me.
I also reccomend www.ajaxengines.com for any machine work.
i dont realy know what to think anymore, 900hp i better watch out .
farmer
Thats one of the most ignorant thing i’ve seen some out of you. You honestly think a highly modified, lets say 400hp, stock motor is going to be more reliable than a built motor with forged pistons and rods with the same tune?
Based on what? that your attempt at a rebuild ended in failure? If thats the case all after market EMS’s are crap too.
My point was exactly what i said in the last sentace of my last post, They’r not needed until you break something.
Yes!Everyone has a point, i agree with everyone just beuase as i said everyone with his own opnion.
Some mechanics use aftermarket parts to make the car fastter, powerfull, but yes there is a point of for how long is that going to take untill it blows up?
I am rebuildding the engine because i got the engine knowing that i was supoust to do that, is a weast of money rebuild with oem parts?Or is rebuild with aftermarket parts?
Is a sr engine a weak engine?I don’t understand so much about rebuildding engine but, is that going to make diference if a use a piston that is not necessary to sleeving the crank?Is it better if i sleev it?
I aprecciate the time that you guys are taking to say something about it!
Thanks guys!
You don’t sleefe the crank…you sleeve the block itself.
http://www.ajaxengines.com/Tourblock.htm
See that cylindrical piece sitting on top of the block…that’s a slefve…the piston moves up and down inside of it.
i suggest you do some more research on how engines work and what the different parts are for.
uhh i think that block in your pic is broken cal
theres holes all over the top of it
he knows what a piston is. Its just his wording is a little on the brasilian side lol. Also hes worked on bikes his whole life and now gettin into cars more and all he wants to know is if hes better off doin new aftermarket pistons or stock sr ones again. his bottom end needs rebuilding.
If he’s looking to up the power and output overall, it’s probably cheaper and easier to go with aftermarket pistons.
In order to make sure of what you’re using, do the research…