Tires:
Hankook Venture Rss 205/50/15 on a 15x7 wheel
Interior:
GTR Driver’s seat
Some kind of hub and wheel
Future Plans:
7-9 point roll cage
Full or near full front and rear multi-link (i have the ability for test and tune thankfully)
CA18DET Motorset
Rear subframe/spindle/hub restoration + Aluminum subframe bushings
Full Energy Suspension bushing kit
Nismo front subframe
Nismo motor and transmission mounts
Nismo steering rack bushings
Custom manual steering rack
Cusco Type-RS 1way LSD
How do you like those Hankooks?-- Are there a lot of good reviews that go along with them?-- I only ask because I came from the world of DSM’s, and just about every track tire choice were either bang-for-buckAzenizes(sp?), Bridgestones for semi-slicks, or Michellins(Bimmer-lads)…
Comments on ride quality/durability(when heat-cycled)/bang-for-buck?
I haven’t run the tires yet, this summer I will tell you. I’m getting them because I got a good deal on them, and they are R-Comps, and they do have a decent treadwear rating.
Obviously a full tune-up and fluid flushes are implied
For almost the same price, I suggest getting Bing’s multi-links. Although I myself was against it, I took a chance and tried them out. Can’t go wrong with 1-year warranty and local part availability. It’s easier going after someone who exists than a large company.
They have lasted me a whole season and still strong. Plus, he is local and easier to deal with than with someone behind a phone. In addition, his parts can be ordered separately later on if anything were to break beyond the warranty period.
Ya I’m thinking about picking up full rear Bing’s multi-link right now… But I think I will run these Megan RUCA this season since I don’t have the money for the multi-link now. Megan was not my first choise. The oppurtunity arose and I just grabbed them.
I would like to upgrade to full SPL multi-link minus all lower control arms. It’s too complicated to adjust roll center and correct bump steer, I’m just going to have to stay above 2" or so in lowering.
They are great don’t get me wrong, but they achieve the same purpose as Bing’s.
They both allow to adjust camber and toe and to give the customer a reliable product.
Megan, however does not produce a reliable product.
You will not feel much difference with multi-link unless you change your alignment. It will tighten up the old bushings in the OEM arms but that’s hardly noticeable. I was going to get SPL but that would cost me at let $850CND compared to the $500ish multi-links from Bing.
I would personally sell the Megan’s while you can and get most if not all your money back and save for the full set from Bing. Don’t take the chance with Megan, it might break on you.
And yes I will be changing the alignment. Not excessively, as stock specs are fantastic.
I just want to mainly correct settings that change as the car is lowered.
But that’s the beauty, I have the oppurtunity to test and tune at Dunnville. So I will try out some different settings and see how they feel compared to other ones. Then I’d like to take my finding to Sasha or someone with some extensive suspension know-how and see what they think from my reports.
for streetability a booster is probably required by law if your car came with the booster as most break modigfications are only allowed if they are DOT/SAE /DMV approved.
no car has had a manual breaking system approved since the early 80’s ( i think)
this is also considdered a downgrade and most likely not allowed…
also as some people do know removing the ABS is not allowed on some vehicles in some places… (ontario i am not sure)
AND just remember you car will be towed and crushed immediately in some US states for the mods you are speaking of…
so no road trips to the us…
Also, power breaks were invented in the 30’s/40’s as they are better tham manual breaks.
if you want to delete the booster for any reason I would considder a relocation bracket
it would mount to the origional location and move the master upt to about 4 or 6 inches in any direction…then all you need to do is put a scoop on your car to direct a little heat away…probably about 2 1/2" tall x 4-5" wide.
this will cool the master and the reservoir quite a bit an act nicely as a diffuser for the knot of air in the windsheild/mirror/apillar/hood zone.
also will you be running an air plate under the car?
should only cost like $120 and saves an ass load of areodynamic issues
I haven’t thought much of aerdynamics. I just want to have a fun car on the track, that feels really good. Aerdynamics shouldn’t be an issue at this level or speeds I plan to be taking this thing to.
I will no be street driving the car after this summer, and the car wouldnt pass any kind of safety inspection once I have ALOT of the modifications done, so a ‘special’ one would be in order.
The cage will not be done until the car is off the road next season and it will never be street driven again.
The pivot point of the brake will, can, and SHOULD be changed.
This is what I want to see. I want more criticism as to what would be more effective. Also, I may be picking up soem sway bars and endlinks this Tuesday, this will be added to the list and was the plan, just didnt think I had the money to do it.
