this doesn’t sound right to me
ur saying if the ride hieght was higher then you would have to compress the springs?
so in other words, adjusting ride hieght also adjust preload.
I have two suggestions:
raise the car a bit. sounds like it will compress the spring. Do you have the car at the extream low end of what the coilovers will allow?
get new coilovers. Even a good lowering spring/strut combo would be better then these in my opinion.
or maybe the washer thing will help
i’d try tightening the center nut on the top mount with the car on the ground first tho
Im not getting rid of these ive owned them for two weeks. They are brand new. I think the nut on top maybe too tight?
IDK im waiting to hear back for the company i bought these from.
good job contacting manufacturer.
is it about as low as it can go? i’m still thinking the spring needs to be compressed more
tighten/loosen top nut with car on ground and report back. do you have a torque wrench?
ALL of my tools are in Wilton. I am in schenectady. Its not as low as i can go i still have about 1/2"
I’m guessing something’s binding in your upper mount strut bearing… you may have the nut too tight or missing some washers or not assembled in correct order (i.e., spacers/nuts/washers/etc). If the upper spring perch doesn’t spin freely, you’ll get spring binding and noises from the springs jumping across the spring seats (which will resonate through the spring and body, making it fairly loud) when you turn the wheels.
Or maybe the bearing is toast.
Just a guess worth $0.02 or less…
I have two brand new bushings with less than 200 miles on them
Is the piston in the strut supposed to spin free?
The piston is the threaded rod that comes up through the upper mount/bearing that you tighten the nut onto. This basically squashes the piston into that bearing and the inner bearing race spins freely, otherwise, the seals on the piston assembly would wear prematurely as the piston would spin every time you turn the steering wheel (which is not intended by design). The outer bearing race is the fixed piece in relation to the upper mount- and the upper spring perch (along with the inner bearing race of the upper mount) and the rest of the strut body should move together, as they as ‘connected’ by the friction on the upper and lower spring seats.
Eh, it sounds a bit convoluted, but hopefully you get the idea…
Lynden in my experience a lot of cheaper coilovers like these actually do spin the shock shaft as they turn. Crappy design but it’s pretty common.
The washers that I had an issue with went between the upper spring perch and the actual strut mount.
(I’ve been trying to find a good picture to reference):
The top green circle would be your upper mount/bearing assembly. The piston has a smaller diameter near the top so that it only goes through this bearing just so far, then stops. This stop is going to be what’s holding the lower side of the bearing. The top of the bearing is then in contact with washers/spacers, which are then held down by the top nut that threads onto the piston. That being said, the entire assembly, the upper spring mount (turquoise cone), the spring (purple), the lower strut body (yellow), and the hub assembly (red) all move as one piece when pushed by the outer tie rod (turquoise rod).
In short, yes- the piston should move freely, but the inner bear race bearing in the upper strut mount is what is supposed to be what’s spinning, so that the entire strut assembly spins as one. When you turn the steering wheel- imagine a small dot in the center of the upper green disc, all the way down to the center of the lower ball joint, where the lower control arm (blue) and the hub assembly (red) meet- this would be your steering axis.
Hopefully that helps…?
If the bearing was pretty beat/shot/rusted/frozen, the piston would spin, but not without the spring slipping/jumping on either the upper or lower spring perch…
So i took a look at the nut on top of the strut its def. tight. I had my fiance crank the wheel back and forth to see if the strut was turning. its not. Idk where else to go from here
Take the nut of put a washer under it. It might be bottomed out on threads and not on the strut bushing.
That will make more of a noise like a rattle , it sounds like the spring is turning on the perch to be like its not on or on the vigour for the spring end
Def not a rattle and the nut is tight. Anyone know any place to buy just springs?
I watched the video, didnt hear shit :lol Can’t be that bad, you’re acting like it will destroy the car if you drive it or something :rofl
Every once in a while my front coilover collars would loosen a bit from turning, easy fix… lowered it all way so it would sit on the collars ha
thats not the point it sounds like shit its a 2007. Brand new to me. Nicest thing ive EVER owned. I dont want ANY noise PERIOD!
what did the coilover company say?
“They are looking into it” and asked if this was my first time ever installing suspension.
