I’ve been reading up on suspension when lowering a 240 and I have several questions. I recently lowered my s13 about 2" and I want to go get an alignment done. Prior to doing this, should I get any suspension parts or can my stock suspension arms be adjusted to OEM spec?
Posts I’ve read so far people are saying get RUCA’s, TC rods for the front, toe and traction rods for the back, basically the whole shebang, but no-one says why? I understand toe is brutal on the tires so I’ll be ordering a set of those and RUCA’s but is there anything else?
Also unrelated to this, are the strut towers in a 240 supposed to be asymetrical? I feel like my driver side tower gives the strut more forward castor then the passenger side (I’ll draw it if theres confusion)
With just a 2" drop the alignment shop should be able to easily get the alignment specs back to stock range with the factory arms. Aftermarket arms with spherical rod ends will remove any slop in the multilink from the 20+ year old bushings and are also fully adjustable. Meaning you can easily set the car up for different purposes (drift, grip, dd, ect.) no matter the ride height your at (within reason…).
And no, there is no asymmetry in a proper (read: proper) S-chassis. That being said, they’re old and beat and prone to rust. I’d check your strut towers where the wheel tub/strut tower meets the frame rail and make sure it hasn’t ripped or rotted apart if your worried and can visually see something wrong.
That might be a problem. My struts look strong enough structurally, but when the strut mounts on the top, the surfaces have different angles, almost as if one side was pushed out. However there is no rust on the top portion…
Overall you’d say I have no need for any arms? If I were to drop further (which i may) what parts become more and more recommended?
My car is pretty low (not hellaflush, but low). I run all stock arms. In the front camber is easily adjustable with the coilover, or if you dont have camber adjustable coils, the 2 bolt holding the strut to the spindles. Toe is easily adjustable by the tie rods. In the back, s13 subframes are also slotted for minimal toe adjustment. I’m not worried about camber, because a little is necessary to keep my wheels from hitting my quarters. The car drives fine down the road and I did all the set up myself with a measuring tape and some toe tools my old man made out of 1x1 tubing.