Talk to me about Toyota MR2 Turbos...

Thinking about getting a 92 MR2 Turbo, it has 120,000 on it. It was owned by a old man from down south and is really clean, no rust. It has some extras like both left and right Snorkels for it, other things. What should i look for like common problems and such. I am a Honda guy, so this is unfamiliar territory to me.

http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=1825

That’s the MR2 buyer’s guide on MR2OC

I was looking for an mr2 for a while last year, but couldn’t afford a Turbo so I ended up getting my Miata. Awesome cars, and they look sweet, I’d love to own one someday.

"WHAT TO LOOK FOR
MR2s are basically bulletproof. Hardly anything major goes wrong with these cars, especially the naturally aspirated ones, unless they’ve been modified, abused or neglected. However, there are a few potential problem areas.
The most expensive trouble spot on an otherwise healthy Turbo is the turbocharger itself. Toyota charges enough for a new one that nobody would bother. Rebuilding the stock turbo, typically every 65,000-80,000 miles, costs about $500. Upgrading the Toyota unit is expensive enough to justify switching to a new, more modern design. The airflow sensor may also go bad, often causing problems only intermittently, and typically costs $600.
On T-top cars especially, check the interior carefully for signs of water damage from leaking window seals. The parking brake cables have rubber dust boots at the caliper ends that are usually rotted. Water can enter these and freeze, locking the parking brake on. Some people drive on regardless, with ugly results.
Beyond these points, inspect the car thoroughly. Be certain every electrical item functions, all the levers unlatch their openings and that all trim is present and in good condition. Toyota parts that are not standard service items can be expensive. Get underneath the car and check for bends from accidents or scrapes from possible off-road excursions. In the absence of poor accident repairs, corrosion is unlikely to be a problem except in the saltiest of winter states.
WHAT TO PAY
The chart of prices indicates average transaction amounts for decent cars between private parties in Southern California. The actual number for any particular transaction will vary significantly, depending on options, color, vehicle condition and a buyer’s desires. Exceptional examples and rare colors or option combinations can go for quite a bit more. Prices also very regionally and seasonally.
MkII MR2s are hardly common, even in Southern California. Finding just the right car can take months of searching. Take your time.
The second-generation MR2 is in many ways an affordable exotic you can drive every day. Have fun with it and take good care of it, but don’t expect anybody to mistake it for a Ferarri. It won’t be in the shop nearly enough for that.

TODAY’S MARKET VALUE
Naturally Aspirated Turbo
1991 : $3,490 $4,250
1992 : $4,030 $4,960
1993 : $4,920 $6,400
1994 : $6,030 $7,570
1995 : $6,770 $9,060"

-From linked site above

#3 on my list of potential K20 Turbo MR pwn-hicles (Exige/Elise 1 & 2)

Honestly, aside from the electrical problem that mine had pop-up, which was from a poorly done engine swap, the car was flawless.

Fun to drive does not even describe them as well. Just make sure you get out onto an autocross course to feel the way it spins before you drive anywhere near 75% on the road.

:word:

if it is an original turbo, it will likely be pretty decent, swaps are… swaps, generally can be a headache in one form or another.

the transmissions suck, it probably has a 2nd or 3rd gear grind, but they are manageable.

Sounds good so far. Only thing it needs is paint, its dark green and he was getting ready to re paint it( my friend who has it now, hes a clean freak) So its all in primer ready to go.

I think its this color if I remember correctly.

http://www.mr2mk1club.com/NortheastNews1_files/ne1002-1.jpg

What lug pattern is it? 5x?

you should ask 91mr2…

5x114.3

Highly recommend picking one up! Love my NA.

I think I will, I am gonna look at it tomorrow and see. It also has a front aftermarket bumper, lowering springs, and some other shit. Its in primer now, I am thinking about flat army green for the summer and then paint it over the winter if I get it.

they are bad ass. but watch yourself, those cars are a lil sketchy to drive at first because of the short wheel base n rear mount engine.

They are absolutely incredible cars and a blast to drive. The Turbo’s have a coolant hose known as the “hose from hell” which will go at least once in it’s lifetime. It’s in an awful location. Other than that, be wary of crunchy 2nd and 3rd gear synchros.

Nothing really too specific to look for, that you wouldn’t look for on any car. They are incredibly over-buillt, and hold the road amazing. Don’t have the time to keep going on about how good they are, but you’re welcome to PM me for more.

I can tell you I love mine also. Mine was hacked up left and right. Shitty swap, basically was just a cut everything and drop a new one in and don’t hook anything back up. I’m bringing mine back to stock basically, it had fiberglass rear bumper, no spoiler and some other crap. Lots of electrical problems that actually weren’t that bad once I sorted it out. Now I’ve got a JDM swapped 91 with the factory alarm still working, new rear bumper and spoiler and soon to be paint. It’s fun to drive on the street and track, I wouldn’t trade it for much out there right now. Got a great deal cuz of the issues but they were so easily fixed, I made out ok and am still working on making it better. Next spring for me I hope to get a new radiator and am thinking about coilovers for autox and track days. It’s my 2nd car so I can daily my Grand Am and am able to take my time doing things instead of worrying about getting it fixed so I can drive it again.

Love the car every minute I’m in it.

Then:

Now - with body work done, new spoiler and bumper, oem lip too. Getting finished paint now.

I used to own one, had some of the typical issues they are known for, leaky t-tops, nd ebake didn’t work because the cables were froze (thankfully not engaged) They are very fun to drive, but definetly do not make good straight line cars unless you have lots of money to throw at it. With basic bolt-on’s and maintence you’ll love it. The N/A’s are also really fun if you can drive.

Yeah, I don’t even use my ebrake now when the weather is cold. Just leave it in gear. I need a catch can though, I seem to be lacking one.

oh yea forgot about that hose… on mine i wrapped it with thermal wrap and flashing and never had a problem with it again.

whenever it goes i strongly recommend that upgrade :tup:

When I made the switch to the MR2 I was throughly impressed with the quality and engineering that went into these cars. Although the mid-engine layout can be a pain at times for some jobs everything seems to be well designed. I feel totally comfortable driving this car and it feels so good to drive (This is on 55 series snows…Haha). I have an 5SFE (NA) but I have heard about the “hose from hell” being a common problem on the 3S-GTE (Turbo).

A common practice for most new MR2 owners are to do a general maintenace based on milage (I needed plugs, wires, cap, and rotor), fluid check/flush, change the oil and then enjoy it. These cars really hold up well.

If you still need info check out www.mr2oc.com and www.mr2.com. It would be great to see another Two on the board.

Cleck, glad to see you on here. I guess you got those electrical issues all worked out then huh?

Yeah - radio was all hacked up, custom wire was started to be run for speakers, etc. Harness was all crap, so I had a friend redo it, put some in-line fuses in only for the radio and wire me up some new speakers too with my head unit. Now that I figured out the factory alarm part, I know how to disarm and arm it. The previous owner didn’t know how to disarm it or maybe just didn’t hook the horn back up when the swap occurred. I hooked the alarm horn back up and now everything works as it should. The lighter was shot so I wired in a 12v power supply in the stock location instead.

Oh yeah the thing to know about the car is snap-oversteer. Happens when you throttle lift in a turn and all the weight shifts from the rear of the car where the engine is, to the front and if you’re still turning - the rear end just whips right around. Something about rwd you gotta learn and know how to not make happen, lol.