thats right another rotto project

I would have to say that fastbacks240 is in much better shape then your car.

And I cannot believe everyones comments in this thread. The car is easily repairable if you know what your doing and if you consder that almost every S13 is in shape similar to that (unless its already been fixed) then the only way to have an S13 in proper shape is IF YOU FIX IT!!!

at least hes got a sick avatar

lol yea everything looks worse when u zoom in i guess, a lot of grinding, allot of welding and allot of frustration and im sure this project will be fine. the front frame is gone but i have a new one so whatever. its only REALY bad under the firewall its kind of wired…

after all i have nothing but time

yea well i don’t really care how mine looks so ill probly just leave it a gaping hole in the car, if the body kit sits over the hole grate if not then ill get soem1 helping me to do it for me lol. and what kind of rust proofing did u use?

Ok,

see where the frame is rotted under driver foot well. You will have to cut the floor out because the whole seam there will be rotten. New metal will have to be welded in. To accomplish this task, the whole dash, sound deadening etc must be removed. Furthermore, where the frame moves upwards toward front clip can not just be cut out. You will have to brace the section.

Take this from someone who has fixed this sort of stuff before. Its not just as easy as cutting out frame and welding new frame in.

On top of that, this car will show more and more rust as you go on. The chassis is toast, end of story.

Andrew.

see where the frame is rotted under driver foot well. You will have to cut the floor out because the whole seam there will be rotten. New metal will have to be welded in. To accomplish this task, the whole dash, sound deadening etc must be removed. Furthermore, where the frame moves upwards toward front clip can not just be cut out. You will have to brace the section.

thanks for that advice ill look into doing that, i was even thinking of welding in temp. support posts everywhere i can on the car anywho so support should be an issue

The chassis is toast, end of story.

proby but im still guna try. if u wana send a 240 to the scrap yard then i guess u dont love these cars as much as i. end of story

thanks for the advice over all tho.

///\ this isn’t a personal hit towards you, but, i hope you’ve got mad welding skills… i really do. and i’m not trying to be a dick, but, we’ve advised against this, so, should anything happen to it while your driving. we warned you not to take this on… however, should your welds hold and it all stays together, then good for you… don’t take this as an attack towards you, i’m just saying.

i think everyone made their point clear enough already, if he wants to do it let him do it cause if i was 3 years younger i would too, there is no need to repeat it again and fastback240 i would stop replying to them your only encouraging them to post again

looks like the passenger frame rail is rusted out too.

anyways good luck and have fun!

and i think it will be easier for you to take out the engine to replace your frame rails, since you have to drill out the spot welds.

everything’s coming out this winter bud. EVERYTHING so its all good, going for a sr swap or maybe something a bit more surprising :wink: you’ll see so don’t worry about it. the passenger side is rusted but not as bad. i would have took pics but there was a straight break in my way and i wasn’t moving it cuz its like 500 pounds lol

im not takeing it personaly but you know what, this is starting to annoy me. I have hours everyday where I can do whatever I want. If you all think I should scrap a beautiful car like this get out of this club, honestly. If u don’t love 240s why are you here? I love them and ill do anything to save one like this. I have a welder with 40+ years of experience guiding me along the way as long as many others who know there shit. Even if I didn’t im not worried about penetration of the welds. If you are just going to comment here telling me to scrap the car SAVE IT I WILL NOT! I will try my best to get this gorgeous car on the road. If u want it in the scrap heap keep it to yourself. I appreciate everyone giving me good luck with this project and I appreciate the advice for you all but the doubt is just getting annoying.

I have for this project

  • supports for the car
  • mig and stick welders
  • numerous grinders
  • professional welders with me every step of the way
  • ¼ inch steal for the rails
  • 20 or 22 gauge sheet metal for the floor more if necessary
  • frame jigs
  • anti rust sprays
  • new frame rail for the drivers side
  • professional mechanics at my disposal
  • numerous people willing to help.
  • professional welding shop where I will be doing this
  • professional automotive shop next door
  • ANYTHING I NEED FOR THIS PROJECT IS AT MY DISPOSAL

thanks to all the project supporters. Keep up with the advice.

MODS please clear up all the hate this dose not need to be 100 pages long by the end of the project.

Alright, I must post on this one. For the most part I simply read these threads and refrain from adding my two cents but there is just too much negativety not to comment.

  1. Yes the car is ‘pooched’ but who cares??? Obviously this gentleman has both time tools and skills to accomplish the task should he not loose interest in the project.

  2. By undertaking this project, he must obviously understand the time effort and blood implications.

  3. Granted the average age on this board is probably around 19, thus I can understand the comments being thrown around to simply ‘give up’. Most people on here who claim to have amazing welding skills etc, have probably merely welded two pieces of flat bar together with bubble gum welds using their fathers welder, thus qualifying themselves as an expert.

  4. Hello people, this is a RESTORATION project, not a quick patch job. I would gather that of all the members on this board, 1% have actually done a full and complete restoration project, and those who haven’t, should not be posting negative comments on the subject, as they have at best second hand knowledge of the subject. That boils my blood.

  5. This gentleman is obviously posting on this board, as he is excited to begin the project. Perhaps instead of filling this board with non constructive criticism, try to help! Yes the car is really rusted, it’s going to take a full effort to complete, probably more money than buying a better chassis, it’s all obvious! But with the propper tools time and effort it can be restored to factory, if not better condition!

Perhaps for those who HAVE done RESTORATION projects on their s13’s they can from here on in post positive criticism which might perhaps HELP this gentleman on his restoration quest!

From someone who has done several full restoration projects, I bid you the best of luck. If you were closer to me geographically I would be more than willing to lend hand.

In my opinion as a restoration project, it isn’t that bad at all! I’m going to scan the pictures of my 77 280Z, which had no floor, or front frame rails left and a broken rear subframe from rust. That was 1000 times beyond what this project is. Anything can be repaired as long as you have a datum point to start from, which this car obviously still has.

has any one of you actually done this?

i have. I was 18, young and stupid.

I replaced the entire rockers from front to rear, fixed the frame and drove the car for a year. Slammed it on d2’s, sunk $1000 into a silvia front end, another $1000 into te37’s, more money on a brake upgrade.

and guess what happend? The floor rotted out, then the inner rockers, then the wheel wells, strut tower-frame. You’re fighting a loosing battle.

All that time i had a perfectly mint chasis i picked up for $300 (eventually stripepd it to a bare shell and sold it for $1000). Doing what i did was the worst mistake i’ve made with a car, all the money i invested into that car should have been put into the other chassis. You’ll regret it to when all your hard work and “love” rusts away infront of you.

With all do respect, as you stated you were 18. Perhaps at that time you weren’t as cognisant as you are now to restoration / repair. Nevertheless, perhaps if you would’ve properly investigated the other areas of the chassis / prepped and finished them with preventative chemicals and cut / replaced all cancerous areas no matter how minor, your chassis would still be around.

IF, done properly, you shouldn’t have a problem and that is the point I am trying to get across. I’ve been digusted by all the negative comments to someone trying to do a good thing, save a car from being crushed. It CAN be done if done properly and systematically.

I totally agree with you…

I’ve fixed the frame, floor and struts in my S13 and have drove it now for over 2yrs without a single friggin problem and I know it’ll last for another 2yrs easily since it was fixed properly and not done half assed like many many people seem to do.

I have repaired two S-Chassis now for S13GG and one for Minimium along with my own and not a single one out of the 4 has had a single problem once and never will.

With all do respect, as you stated you were 18. Perhaps at that time you weren’t as cognisant as you are now to restoration / repair. Nevertheless, perhaps if you would’ve properly investigated the other areas of the chassis / prepped and finished them with preventative chemicals and cut / replaced all cancerous areas no matter how minor, your chassis would still be around.

IF, done properly, you shouldn’t have a problem and that is the point I am trying to get across. I’ve been digusted by all the negative comments to someone trying to do a good thing, save a car from being crushed. It CAN be done if done properly and systematically.[/quote]

Perhaps at that time, i stripped the car, sandblasted the entire thing, Self etched, and painted it, fabricated entire new rocker panels etc etc etc. It still didn’t stop the seem at the floor/inner/outter rockers from rusting. Soon as that seem went the floor was ripped up, doors were braced to prevent sagging, inner rockers were ripped out, outter rockers were removed, firewall was removed as the floor was rusted out.

The amount of work required to do it is astronomical, retarded and stupid. Why even bother when this EXACT car was produced from 88-98? Save your money, and buy a good one without rust.

I’ve done it all buddy, and like i said, it’s NOT worth the hassle or trouble.

The bottom line is everyone needs to see this from both sides.

Most people telling him to give up do it because they’ve been there and warn (with good reason & intention) that problematic frame rust & rot can be a much bigger problem then first appears visible. Also, they’re warning against being too sedimental with a car that may cost too much and/or collapse in the end anyway. No one wants that to happen to anyone here, because it’s a crappy feeling. So i’d say these posts should be taken as warnings and not personal attacks.

On the other hand, with enough determination, time and resources, we all know it can be done. It’s all about doing it right and to the bone, which it sounds like he wants to do.

My advice to you is analyze the whole car, and don’t miss a single spot. Then make a real, educated & unbiased decision on whether it’s actually worthwhile and doable. Make your decision considering both sides and hearing from people who have been there, then stick with it.

Boom, end of story.

P.S. If you do go for it, good luck, hope it turns out! :slight_smile:

daddy rim you are my hero. thank you for getting my point across. all else who believe in me thank you. i plan on tearing this car apart to the last piece of metal and rust proofing it all, and even after its done every month i will go trough it and look for signs of rust and fix them accordingly. until somebody wants to give me a new chassis for free i will continue on with the project. i do not like sitting around on my ass and doing nothing so i will fix this car until it kills me or again i get a new chassis for free. i have no job and no money and no life. that’s why im doing this. if u don’t want to follow along in the tread and learn from my mistakes then fine. if u want to follow along and help guide me on what im doing then awesome. all i know is metal that’s rusted is coming out and new meal is going in its place. that’s all that’s happening maybe a bit of rust proofing in there to. as for everything else, if there’s no rust there’s no problem. i may just be doing the frame to support the car from falling apart when i put it up on the hoist where most of the work will be getting done. by June latest august this car will be finished. no if ands or buts. it will be! one way or another. thanks to all the supporters of the project and keep giving me advice. iv actually had some ppl tell me things i did not know already! keep it up. all the people who wana see this in the scrap heap stop commenting I have taken all this into careful consideration and you telling me I cant do it makes me want to do it more.
Thanks to all.

-Shawn

ok well tomorrow i start the tear down of the car and hopefully get that drivers side rail in. i went to crappy tire today to see what they had in terms of rust protection. i ended up getting this


i just needed something i can spray on over my welds and new metal to make sure any rust that was there will stop and it will prevent more rust from coming back. i thought since this is rubberized and asphalt undercoating it would work well… am i right or wrong? (and yes don’t worry i have like 10 cans of it. and the receipt if im wrong! :wink: )

if your serious about the rust protection, look into the por15 stuff… www.por15.com its expensive but i recently saw a truck with this stuff and its been on there for over 10 years… and its in amazing shape… i’m doing it to my s13’s, check it out