yea i was reading the forum on that yesterday i think, i was going to go and buy some. but i dont know how far i can pull my car apart in the welding shop i may have to move it over to the auto shop and do it. but i think im guna buy alot of that stuf and just trow about an inch of it on everything on my car. but will the stuf i have work for the time being?
//\ that i don’t know, me, i wouldn’t use it. only because its a simple rattle can spray. to me it just seems a little to easy. but i’ve never used it so my opinion doesn’t count, lol
well i saw that sockington used the same stuff so i think its ok. i’ll have to see. anyone used it before?
POR15 come in a can to be used by brush or paint gun. I;ve never seen it in an aerosol. As for the undercoating, that shouldn’t be applied directly to bare metal.
I will add one other recommendation Fastback240, take a couple hours and wander over to your local auto supply store such as Napa or carquest etc. Maybe visit a few of them. Go to the paint department and tell them what your doing. In many cases you will find these individuals to be the most helpful and will provide you with loads of information on the subject. In most cases these individuals can, if nothing else be rather entertaining in a backwoods hillbilly sort of way.
They often know the latest and greatest chemicals to use. Of course if they’re busy they won’t take the time with you but over the last 12 years, whenever I’ve had any auto finishing chemical questions I’ve used them as a great resource. And the more you talk with them, the more apt you’ll be to get a price break.
One comment you made seems a little alarming before starting this project, and that was that you had no money. Without a little money, you be left to fabricate a lot of the metal yourself, which is fine so long as you know metal fabrication sufficiently to do so, and can fabricate the required metal to original specifications. If not, you mentioned you had a godd cross section of skilled individuals from which you can gain the knowledge I’m sure.
Best of luck.
What do you mean, do I have to prime the surface before I put the rust proofing on? I don’t know iv never used it before so I don’t know you have been very insightful lately and I thank you for that, I did go to my local store that was open and talk to the guys and they told me that this was the stuff to be using, im going to go over the whole underbody of the car in the por15 stuff after all the metal work is done but in the mean time I would like something to seal it with. I found this to be effective so I think so. I do have money to blow on this project but not 100 grand. Im not going to go buy new parts when I can make them myself I have all the metal fabrication tools and as I said people to teach me the methods I don’t know and the ones I do I will use. Im not going to spend a grand on a new chassis when I can save this one for next to nothing. I can get all the metal for free out of the scrap bin and use the equipment for free so im just trying to be smart with my money so it takes me further. Spend the money in places it needs to be spent… quoting sockington “the go fast parts” but this brings me to my question, do I have to prime the surface before application?
P.S. i added you on msn if you dont mind giving me some pointers…
//\ i think thats what he means. cuz i know the por15 you have to prime before the actual por15 goes on.
p.s i’m sending you a pm
i’m all for this, then you can come over to my house and fix my shock tower rust 
Well, I’ve restored my share of cars, so if that qualifies …
Daddy Rim, your 280Z is a different animal than an S13 or 14. Old Datto/Nissans used better steel, and a lot of it.
I’ve fixed many cars from the 60s and 70s with bad frame rot. And I’ve sent a few out to pasture too.
The problem with S13s is they rot so thoroughly. The frame goes, the floors go, all hardlines, steering/suspension, everything goes. Add to that the fact that OEM S13 and 14s are flimsy even when everything is solid, and it’s begging for a disaster. The subframe will shift very easily, and it’s not something you can just “realign”.
I have never seen a car come apart so quickly or so dangerously.
And a real restoration would require media blasting the chassis, which honestly in this case would be reduced to an A-pillar and maybe a license plate bracket.
Look at the inner fender, from the frame up. Unless he plans on welding the new frame to the underside of the hood, there’s not much steel left there at all.
Even if he has 100 cans of rubberized undercoating.
Suggesting people don’t love their cars … I mean even with a loved one, you pull the plug at some point.
Even if you replace all the frame, get the car to actually go straight, and never rust again, you still have to replace all the rubber underneath the car, all the fuel lines, bushings, brake lines, ebrake, suspension … etc.
It sounds like you’re on a budget and plan to add “go-fast” parts. So this seems like a great learning experience, but I wouldn’t put any power through a chassis you’ve cobbled together during a learning experience.
After a few thousand dollars and 18 months of your life you will have a clean chassis you could have had for a lot less money 18 months ago.
for once I agree with you.
Andrew.
“in this case would be reduced to an A-pillar and maybe a license plate bracket.”
-good i will have somewhere to start.
like i said go and find me a full chassis for a decent price then. stop bitching about how i cant do it and what i should do and give me a hand, find me a new one and ill put some serious thought into it.
I sold mine for under a grand a couple of months ago. there are plenty half-decent to decent chassis going around for pretty cheap, you just need to keep you eyes open.
Good luck!
tell me if you see one, or go hunting for me 
i definatly dont have the time lol
Spring time*
Help my chassis is twisted help me fix it and MTO pulled my plates!
:blue:
Spring time*
Help my chassis is twisted help me fix it and MTO pulled my plates![/quote]
what in the hell are you talking about?
:fnf2:
He’s calling you an idiot.
Why?
Because you’re not even CLOSE to grasping the magnitude of this project.
This was a pretty fucking retarded undertaking, before you planned to add power to the mix. When you added that in, it made it be the definition of retarded. It’s one thing to LEARN how to do chassis and body work on this vehicle. It is a completely different thing to actually take this hazard onto public roads, even if you didn’t add power to it.
Everyone supporting you is doing you a huge disservice. You’re saying the equivalent of “I want to fuck a bear in the ass, and see how that goes” And they’re like: “Sure dude, go for it, plz post pics with your progress!”
…you make me want to buy a civic
Please do, you’d be doing the world a favour.
