Tranny removal...drivetrain

SON240sx Automotive
1

Hey guys,

I was just wondering if you could help me out. I’m trying to pull my tranny out (93 FB). I’ve got all the major stuff done, just gotta disconnect the tranny from the driveshaft.

I’m having trouble removing the 4 12mm(?) bolts connecting the driveshaft (around the driveshaft support). http://www.240sx.org/links/installs/flywheel/driveshaft.JPG
They’re rusted nice.

I can disconnect the 6 bolts before this (towards the front of the car) where teh propeller shaft is…this is where teh FSM tells you to disconnect the driveshaft…is it safe to disconnect here? I looked at the FSM regarding disconnecting here and they said I need a plug…and not to mess around with the rubber stuff…should I just go ahead and disconnect at this spot? It looks like the easiest option… Any suggestions on getting those 4 bolts off?

Help!

Tom

2

You need two 14mm boxed end wrenches. A good grip and make sure
you don’t slip.

I’ve tried using a socket/ratchet and its damn near impossible.

Just need to give it a little. They’re small bolts. They should break loose
fairly easily.

Don’t konw what else to suggest other then try and disconnect the bolts
at the mid-point on the shaft.

3

Ohhhhhh…wait I think we’re talking about 2 different places.

There are 14mm bolts near the diff. Disconnect there and then I can pull the driveshaft out of the tranny?

4

Yes. Go to the very back of the driveshaft (where it connects to the
differential. There are 4 bolts.

  1. Jack up rear of car
  2. Get someone to get inside car (or you can climb out, crawl under)
  3. Engage e-brake.
  4. Take out bolt.
  5. Disengage e-brake
  6. Turn shaft for next bolt
  7. Repeat from 3. to remove all bolts.
  8. Disconnect bolts at tranny x-member and then slide the shaft out of the tranny.

In most cases, 3 bolts are removable without turning the shaft. You’ll
have to rotate shaft on at least one bolt.

5

G, you’re the man!

Thanks a lot bro. I had to go to Cdn Tire and get another 14mm wrench, and that was that.

Thanks man, just waiting for my bro to come home so we can drop the tranny.

6

lol all the major stuff done… thats like the first step

7

or instead of dealing with the fuckn gay bolts…
pull the motor, let the shaft come out of the yolk in the tranny on its own.

i do say that it is difficult without 2 or 3 ppl to put it back on this way.

watch out for the fluid too.

8

You think a kid who can barely remove the driveshaft is gonna go and
pull the motor?

9

Also a handheld torch (used carefully!) can be very usefull in breaking stubborn nuts free. Get them nice and red hot at least and then give it a try, I had to do it on my Auto drive shaft during my 5spd swap because they were on there like a son of a b****h. No match for a torch :slight_smile:

10

wouldn’t heating them make them harder to remove since when adding heat energy to the metal, it expands, exerting an even greater force on the walls of the hole, requiring more torque and therefore effort in order to remove it? (unless it heats up to the point where the metal becomes soft and you damage the threads). i don’t get how that works. :-k

11

From what I understood when we did it, the nut and the bolt or treaded stud are essentialy partialy fused together from either rust, corrosion whatever it may be, the heating causes the metal to expand. The two metals are not going to expand the same (you try to make the nut heat up not just heat it all up). Since the flame is hitting the nut it will expand at a greater rate then the stud. This is where you then remove the nut, key is not the heat things up to the point where tread damage can take place. My dad showed me it while helping with my car I was impressed by it (he designs engines and was a patternmaker) so I am preaty sure he knew what he was doing.

12

no no, i wasn’t saying it doesn’t work. i was just confused with the physics behind it. i get it now, good idea. :wink: