Quote:
Originally Posted by ezfd
anybody want to ride shotty??
Quote:
Originally Posted by fairgentleman Z
[i]I don’t think we’ll allow passengers in inexperienced cars.
Nevermind…
[/i]
shitty, i woulda rode with ya eric
Hell if I break the taurus, I’ll just leave it there minus the blower setup. :tup:
:word: totaling my car would probably be the best thing to happen to me right now… lol
it’s cool jay, not a big deal.
After reading some of the responses here, I know why julie is such an ass sometimes. :banghead:
Except you sign a waiver before you drive on any track… your insurance wouldn’t cover anything.
i didn’t mention a thing about insurance…i just said that totaling it would be the best thing for me…because that way i can’t throw any more stupid money into it lol
oh and notice the "lol"s i had added at the end of the last two posts…simulating laughter as i posted, meaning there was no amount of seriousness in my words…
How much % are we talking about for deposit…or is that somethign ur still workign on
julie and joe, you guys will need to work out something about asshats.
ie. so and so is driving like an asshat, and putting everyone in danger. so ge gets kicked off the track, tar and feathered, or whatever.
it sounds like there’s going to be a lot of people attending, and i would hate to see someone or multipule someones get hurt because one person couldnt control themselves.
Somehow I think the $200 price will leave most of the asshats at home. Especially when you consider it will realisticly be $400 + (gas, food, lodging perhaps, brakes, tires for some, etc.) They all talk a big now, then when it comes to coughing up the deposit (which I think should be the total price, pay in advance, no refunds for people backing out), we’ll see who really goes.
X…
I am only considering going because I have a year old set of victos/wheels that would probably last at least an hour or two, and I will probably have some backup azenis for the street.
Having the tires is going to make this a lot cheaper… but I already have to look at doing my timing belt soon which is expensive, so we’ll see.
WELL PUT…i was planning on driving up that morning and driving home that nite but again thats somethign to work out later
The non-refundable deposit (unless TMP cancels the event) will be between $115 and $130 depending on what we figure out the cost will be for co-driver cars.
if anyone violates any of the satefy rules they’re gone, period. no warnings. insta perma ban.
AGAIN PEOPLE, TO SIGN UP YOU HAVE TO POST IN THE UBRF THREAD, it makes keeping track of usernames much easier
can we establish the cars that will be considered co-driver cars… i woul dhate to deposit money and not have a co-driver that wants me to drive there car…
it really wont be an issue for the deposit. The remainder fee will be the difference between single & co-driver cars. But you should find a co-driver before you deposit anyway.
I really hope this doesn’t become an issue. Limiting passing and keeping a minimum distance in the twisties should be easy rules to follow, but even the little things sometimes can be overwhelming at speed.
After every session I’d like to se that group discuss what they did wrong or right. The biggest concern I have is high HP cars not letting better handling cars pass in the passing zone(s). I will discuss this in detail as we figure out the proposed conduct of the course.
Honestly, street tires are going to be good enough for 95% of the people for a thier first event. People should be concentrating on lines, getting consistent and in a good flow. You can still come have a great time and leave the 10/10ths driving for another time. I’m not saying don’t bring an extra set if you have them but a tire with ~50% tread will definately last you. (granted the allignment is good)
I agree… I would say if anyone thinks they need to spend ANY money on thier car to come to this event, I would make it on maintenance, safety, and good track brake pads.
Regarding some discussion about harnesses from earlier, I would STRONGLY disagree with any use of harnesses, CG lock devices, etc. Unless you are in a car fitted with a proper rollbar, no airbags, and certified and properly installed harnesses, the stock safety belt is the safest route.
Most non-certified harnesses and “autocross” harnesses are simply there to hold you in place during low speed events such as, you guessed it! AUTOCROSS!
They will interfere with proper operation of the cars airbag, they could also stretch or break, or cause massive neck injury or worse.
CGLocks or similar devices will interfere with the proper operation of the factory seat restraints in the case of an accident and may hurt more than help.
At a minimum change brake fluid within a month prior to the event with that fancy high temp shit. Make sure you have at least half the pad life left.
ADDITIONALLY, if you are on a budget, just buy an extra set of cheap pads (NAPA, autozone, pepboiis) to bring with you. If you don’t use them then just return them, but you’ll be glad that you bought them if you need them I’ll have a full toolbox with me.
I was plannig on running hig temp fluid for auto-x anyway plus i am doin a BBK this yr anyway…but the xtra pad idea is a good call…I am guessing we will have access to pit lane garage area???
even more important than anything is having a pad that can take repetitive long hard braking.
Everyone I know who has done trackdays says the same thing… get TRACK pads. Change them at the event if you have to (they suck for the street, they dont work when cold), they will save your rotors and brakes from overheating big time.
Jeremy is also right, have some halfway decent fluid and a good bleed on the system, but your fluid is going to boil no matter what you have in there if you have shitty brakepads that start cooking your rotors and bearings after 10 laps.