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NYSpeed Automotive
21

i’m now taking suggestions…i can not sell the car, that is not an option, i live with my parents and have to live by their rules, if i sell the car, they basically get to tell me i have to live with a beater until i graduate or move out or both…and i will not settle for that, so i am keeping it…

do i rebuild current motor, or try again with a new one?

i’m not sure which will cost more, but here are the pro’s and cons to each…

rebuild:
pro’s
i will save a lot of money by pulling and putting back the engine myself…
i will know for fact that all the internals are good and new, and the engine is good…
i will be able to do or have done what i want, not have to stick with used stock…
con’s
rebuild may take longer than simply taking out one engine and putting in another…
i’m sure there’s more con’s, but i’m too dumb to think of them

buying another engine:
pro’s
can get all labor done free for uninstall of old and reinstall of new…
i’ll have another engine for parts along with my old NA engine…
i can go to a good distributor this time…
con’s
still no guarentee of the quality…
might be a bit more costly…

i’m leaning more toward the rebuild of the current engine just for the security of knowing exactly what’s in it and the quality of what’s in it…plus i’m fairly sure that if i can get the engine out and back in free of labor…the costs of engine parts and the rebuild will most likely be a lot cheaper than that of buying a new engine…and even if it’s not, the security would be worth the bit extra…

22

rebuild… with better shit

23

i was planning on weisco pistons…stock forged rods will be good enough for a long time…the rebuild would also include obviously all new gaskets, cleaning/fixing all valve lifters, replacing of any bearings that may show signs they are on their way out (i’m not even sure if something like that is predictable), and obviously cleaning out EVERYTHING…

24

is the NA block different from the turbo block ? besides knock sensors …

25

def the way to go… no need for another gamble IMO. If you can afford it you will be very happy you went with a rebuild im sure

26

You need to properly diagnose the problem first. I doubt you need a complete rebuild from the information I have thus far. You NEED to do a leak down test. Chances are the heads will have to come off the motor, so the easiest way would be to go ahead and take the cams out. Check each cylinder and see where the pressure is escaping to. I’ m betting the heads may need to be rebuilt, but the lower end of that motor seems tight.

27

contact jeff(racerx) to have him do a rebuilt.

28

i can’t afford it, but i know i’m getting a huge tax return, and need a car to drive, so it is priority…so i’ll find a way…

and the difference between the NA block and the TT:

-all oil passages the same, cept 2 are plugged in the NA with bolts that feed the turbos on the TT

-rod bearings are the same size, the but the TT is a differeny alloy

-compression obviously different, 8:5:1 on TT, and 10:5:1 on NA

-oil pumps are slightly different…

-the intake cams on the auto TT are different than the tt 5 spd and all na’s because the tt auto makes 20 less hp to increase life of the tranny (but tt 5spd, na 5spd and auto all have same cams)

-exhaust valves on tt made from stronger alloy

-the heads are different from tt to na, casting are ALMOST the same, but not quite…

other than that, the na and tt engines are pretty much the same…if i wanted to i could use my NA block for a TT car…

edit: i’m gonna be doing a lot more homework on it over winter break, and in the spring i’ll start figuring out my money situation, and then i’ll start going to town on it…although i probably dont NEED a full rebuild, why not spend the extra few hundo on parts while the engine is out and disassembled to make sure that EVERYTHING is in top running condition? my whole aim from the beginning was to do everything right the first time around, and i did just that…but got fucked over on an engine…i’m not gonna start half assing and cutting corners now

29

Rebuild vs. a different motor can’t be answered until you do a teardown and inspection. It may just need a hone, rings, bearings, and a valve job. Or, it could be totally fuxored. Can"t tell till you look.

I only deal with local people, having had a bad experience once something like yours. Sorry you got fucked over.

30

ok so i want to start by apologizing for bringing back such an old thread of mine, but i have news that is somewhat confusing to me, so i’m looking for opinions again…

i FINALLY heard back from Z1 after sending them a handful of emails asking them how they intend to repay me for my troubles and the faulty product i was sent etc etc…

all i got in response was them asking me what the exact compression numbers were when i did the test that showed all the problems…nothing else, so i wrote them back with what i remember, which i know is within at least 5psi of accurate on each cylinder, and told them when i found the sheet i had originally wrote it on, i would write again with the exact numbers, and if they still didn’t believe me, i would take it to a place like hybrid, have them do another compression test, and then fax over the results or whatever since they would obviously be more credible than i am…

i just dont understand though, how can you get so many very professional, mature emails from a frequent customer with a BIG problem, and write back a month or so later just asking again only in more detail what was wrong, after already having been told what was wrong several times, i know they’re just trying to stall and buy time, but i dont know what else to do…i’ve had a few offers from friends and what not that would call on my behalf, somewhat “representing” me in this matter, people that have more experience dealing with companies that try to screw kids like me over, but other than that i’m lost when it comes to the types of procedures i should follow in getting this taken care of…

my girlfriend also works for a lawyer, and is good friends with him…and claims he would even be willing to call on my behalf and throw the whole legal bullshit talk to them, just to try and scare 'em, but i dont wanna have to pull out the big guns right away…

looking for any and all recommendations, opinions, and offers here guys…spring is around the corner, and i would like to be reimbursed in time to be able to use the money to get my engine fresh and to where it should be…

31

Cylinder being tested for leakdown must be at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke :slight_smile:

32

:word:

teh top of the cylinder walls wear the most, because the cylinder pressure behind the ring pushing it into the wall

its why the top of the wall gets the ridge, but the bottom doesnt

33

How did you get all 6 cyl compression numbers if you stopped after 4? Was the motor hot or cold when you did this? Was your friends motor hot or cold when he did his?

34

it sounds like your headed in the right direction. i think a fax over of a compression test from Hybrid is a great idea and the lawyer scare as well. i wold ask them to at least provide you with a complete set of brand new in box rebuild kit to repair the damage to the motor they sent you along with maybe some other freebies to compensate for the labor of the rebuild and tell them if they do that you would be happy enough. but dont let them live it down, hassle the fuck out of them until they get so agravated they just want you to shut up so they cave. they make enough money doing this stuff if they have so many parts cars whats a few hundo worth of rebuild parts and stuff gonna hurt them?

35

i believe andy was refering to the numbers on my engine. it was warm when i did my test.

andy- good luck with getting this resolved but it seems like your beating a dead horse by bugging these guys. they will probably just keep brushing you off especially how you got them agitated on 300zxclub. either way let me know if i can lend a hand

36

Georgia huh? Thats no problem I live about 4 hours from GA. Let me know whats up

37

have the lawyer call them, get ur money back, keep the motor, pay hybrid to fix it, wipe ur hands clean of all the bullshit.

38

Just so nobody gets the wrong idea, there’s a shop called Z1 Auto also known as Z1 Performance out of Long Island who also works with Z cars. They have a similar name, but do not confuse them with this other shop. The owner Adam is a good guy and a friend of mine.

39

yes joe, my car was very warm before i did this, i had let it run for a while and took it around the block a few times prior to the test, and the battery was fully charged…

you’re right, i did stop after 4 cylinders, and i dont know the exact numbers for cylinders 4 and 6, but i can take a good guess that they’re not gonna be much better, if any better than the rest…

this is Z1 motorsports, in georgia, not the one in long island…i’ve never haerd of the one mike mentioned, but may look into it…

and i dont think it would be a good idea to go telling them i want this part and that part as compensation because then they’ll probably think i’m just another dick customer trying to bullshit my way to free parts, or at least that’s what i would think in their position, so i’m putting it on them…the offering i mean, i’m not going to ask for anything in specific, i’m just gonna keep asking how they plan to make this u to me, and when i get an answer, if it is not the one i want or like, then i will take further steps, like continueing to post on every forum their exact emails promising to work something out, followed by emails refusing to work something out totally contradicting the previous emails…and i will also at that time have lawyers start calling, i could probably also get into touch with people from the better business burough, we know a few people from there at my work since we are often reported to the burough for bullshit reasons (i work collections, so we get reported by debtors all the time…)

40

Sounds like you will spend more persuing them than you would just replacing the messed up parts.