Wheelhop

Ok, I searched several forums on this situation and found some info but
nothing too detailed.

Ok here’s the dilly. This normally occurs in rain. If I’m at a stand-still
and take off faster then usual, the rear end will hop. Or if I take off slowly
in 1st and then floor it (not literally) the rear will hop. What’s goin on?
Are my tires gripping…losing traction…gripping…etc?

My tires: Kumho Ectsa 712

Another situation (on dry surface). I’ve tried to corner at high speeds and
sometimes I noticed that if I’m accelerating hard enough through the
turn, the rear will hop a little.

My suspension is totally stock (bushing/spring/shocks,etc.).

Comments?

might be ur rear shocks. if so, they are worn out

Well i’m pretty sure my suspension is shot, cuz going over even the
smallest of bumps will result in a THUD. Can’t wait to upgrade next year.

yeah, then most likely its ur rear shocks. Prob blowjn

When I had the mustang, when you mentioned wheel hop to anyone, they
would right away recommend getting boxed/aftermarket lower control arms.

I dunno if this would apply to the 240, nor do I know if any company
makes beefier control arms.

Its ur rear subframe bushings.

I bought TANABE ones and boy did they make a huge difference.

http://www.tanabe-usa.com/driftspec/crossmemberbushing.asp

Where did you get those Tanabe bushings and how much did they cost?

I forget where I read this (maybe Nico) but someone on there said
about using washers.

I bought the bushings for 350bux.
A but expensive but it was worth replacing the totally shot 325,000km stock ones.
Using washers is only good if you use them properly to support your stock bushing. The way they explane it is to actually replace the bushing with washers (or aluminum bushings) which is only good if the car will be just a track car. Aweful aweful idea for the street. I tried it for a week i went apeshit feeling every friggin rock on the road. I liked the rock hard stiffness it gave on the corners but i swear i lost at least 20lbs of nuts and bolts off my car.

haha nice, so thats why race cars are so light! :stuck_out_tongue:

Ok, PDM has this kit: KCA 349 Rear Nissan Sub-Frame Align and Lock Kit
http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/suspensionbush.html

It’s $80USD (I would assume at least $115CDN shipped). Should I get
these or should I look into something else? My car’s got 141KM on it so
maybe I can do with just the PDM bushings.

Comments?

Do you know the work involved in changeing those bushings?

If you plan to change ANY rear buchings do them all at once and plan a full day to do it.

Hrm, guess I’ll wait till I get the rest of my suspension next spring.

So this is what I have planned for my bushing upgrade:

KCA 349 Rear Nissan Sub-Frame Align and Lock Kit - $80USD
Rear Camber Correction Bushings - $85USD
Whiteline T/C Rod Bushings - $45USD

And the following as part of my suspension:

Whiteline Anti-Sway Bars (front/rear): $330USD
Shocks/Springs: $700USD

Total: $1240USD (~$1700CDN). :shock:

I think my stock LCAs and TC rods are fine and don’t need replacing.

I had the same problem - it was caused by blown rear shocks.
Replacing the shocks fixed the problem for the most part but our rear axles are known to be a little jumpy …

I had the same problem… replaced the shocks, didn’t help. I’ve heard that this hopping problem is quite normal on our 240s. If you say subframe bushings can fix the problem, there’s a guy on eBay selling silvia subframe bushings for $65usd. It says they’re quite easy to install as well. I would just order that and see if it fixes the problem.

way to reply to a topic a year old