I am going to hopefully be finishing up my FMIC this weekend and while I’m at it, I’m going to start cleaning up the engine bay by re-routing vacuum lines (all I can from a single vacuum manifold). Where can I buy either silicone or decent quality vacuum tubing locally? Does Shako carry it? I was also thinking about going AN but I’m sure that will be expensive as hell, way overkill, and it would be a bitch to adapt the barb fittings to AN… so I probably won’t be going that route unless someone wants to convince me… lol.
Edit: Also, do they make T-bolt clamps for vacuum hoses? I know that zip ties work, but they just look so cob jobbed when used… maybe its just me…
Advance auto and harbor freight hose is the last thing you want to put on an Sti, or anything for that matter. They use that garbage low grade rubber that deteriorates quickly and turns hard and brittle. Proper sized silicone hose is a way better choice. Or for the small vacuum lines I buy rolls of the oem Honda which is the same exact size on a subaru, and really good quality.
The subarus have tons of hoses under the hood that are odd sized and formed, like most of he pcv lines. Check the condition of those and also the fuel pressure regulator hose thats prone to sliding off.
I was debating changing all of my fuel lines out to braided… but I’m not 100% sure yet. I had a feeling the A.Auto and HF lines were crap quality. I may just order some online if there isn’t anywhere to get good quality locally.
Kinda OT, but along the same lines…anyone know where I can pickup the ‘intake coupler’ found in this picture (the rubber bendable part)? Mine is torn and the dealer only sells it with the plastic baffle for $100. F’in stupid. Just need a generic one in that size…is there places that sell stuff like that?
Unless you’re pushing the power that requires it, or doing some sort of major fuel system upgrade(like a cell and surge tank in the trunk) better off leaving it alone. The fuel lines run inside the car, they come up through the floor under the rear seat and run along the drivers rocker before exiting through the firewall up under the dash.
I did this on my last WRX with the Eg33 when I made the fuel system and in the end I wish I had just bought new OEM lines to replace the rotted crap VS running the 6an braided shit.
I was going to leave the factory hard lines up to the firewall and just replace the rubber sections under the hood. To help clean it up and not have to worry about any hoses sliding off. I was doing some research and it looks like you can attach the AN fittings to the hardline similar to a swedgelock fitting (nut compresses a ferrule which clamps the hard line and gives a tight seal). I was thinking of possibly moving the canister up to the bulkhead to help free up a little space in that really tight section (especially once the FMIC piping is in there too).
They won’t slide off. Dealt with alot of subarus and never have had that happen ever, yet I HAVE seen braided lines fail at the hose end due to improper assembly procedure. If you’re going to replace them, just give Fred a shout at Capitalland 399-9900 and order up fresh oem lines and the associated clamps.
The do make compression -to- AN type fittings but it’s more of a hassle and you’re just creating another potential leak point. If you’re going to attach AN fittings to the hard lines, you’re better of removing the lines and brazing steel fittings directly to the lines to attach the hose ends/hose barbs for whatever line you’re going to run. the compression style fittings do work though, but the line must be perfect(no rust, coating, scratches, etc)
well it sounds like I’ll be skipping that then… lol. If I decide to relocate the canister I can just pick up some good quality rubber fuel hose and new clamps. I was just thinking AN for the clean look… but its not worth the hassle or risk of a possible leak. This isn’t a show car… lol
Also to answer your other question about clamps for vacuum line…no they do not make t-bolts that small. The absolute best type of clamp for small lines though are Oetiker clamps(Also known as double crimp) Shako/Omni does sell them separately as well as a kit with the installation tool(which is really nothing more than an over glorified set of flush cut dykes really)
This may be way off, but I think its the fuel filter. I really haven’t looked closely yet, but its the black canister that is clamped to the driver side strut tower. I just helped a friend of mine put the TurboXS FMIC into his 02 and it was a little tight for my liking to the fuel lines (basically the same kit I have). So I’d like to move the canister / filter so the lines won’t be rubbing or getting pinched.
I used Earls 165056 in the past with no problems at all. Used them on my own jettas stock plastic hardlines, snipped them off at the firewall, used these to convert to -6 AN and ran AN from there. No leaks at all, and they were installed on another car when i sold it and still no leaks. Also used them on hard lines, without issue either. Just like he said, the line has to be perfectly clean, its a crush fit with the copper furrel in the middle, to make a seal, so the surfaces have to be clean and burr/rust/shit free to make a smooth clamp on the surface.
Slide the red one over the OEM line, slide the furrel over the hardline, butt the end of the snipped off hard line as per the instructions and tighten it up. All done.
I would also say make sure the attachment point isnt under any stress, and anchor it somehow, so vibrations, pulling on the line, or any movement wont try to pull it apart or work the copper seal loose somehow. And yeah its another leak point, sure.
But no need to run An stuff unless you want it to look better, or the hardware and their fittings physically require it in your case IMO.
Thought so… lol. Anyways, when I did the TurboXS in my buddy’s WRX, the piping was really tight on those fuel lines so I want to move the filter to the bulkhead to hopefully clear up some space in that corner.
