woops i posted under martinos profile
I do all head work in house. We have all the equipment and knoledge to do so right here. I would charge in around $500.00 as well for a fully blue printed port job, valve job and and flow job behind the valve.
sorry dude i didnt know u offered that service.from ur description above it seems like u know ur stuff… if possible can you email me some of your work/pics at boostaway@hotmail.com and dont worry im not the bashing type like some of the clowns on this forum
dyno it already … If it makes some nice #'s id be interested in some head work
- boost im gonna bug u til u do another ka-t lol
DA 1. Its no problem. I never mentioned i did services. I am working on my buddies head now. I need to buy a new camera. Maybe that is in order for this weeks purchase. I really need to do a full motor refresh to do a dyno pull. I want to know on a motor thats pretty much new and not burning oil. I imagine with a header (this is the ka24de) we are talking about, that all the work complimenting eachother would be about 50hp-70hp probably to the crank though not the wheels. It takes over 30hp to really feel the difference to the human body. I’m intrested now. I will see if I can get it in on a few pulls when its back together. I will get a camera hopfuly to do step by step pics. I don’t knows though. Don’t quote me on it. I actually think it might be suprising to me and make around 70 to 80 crank. I dunno. We will see in a few weeks. I have to go to the engine dyno for my RB26DET on friday so it will be a week or 2 before the KA is ready.
DA 1 and SRI Motorsports,
Could I get some pics and info as well? I’m looking to build a 280-320 ft-lbs SOHC KA (notice I put ft-lbs instead of HP? I’m aiming for around that kind of torque figure). I’ve got the bottom end all planned out, but any recommendations will for greatly welcome. I’ve got plans on running a T25 for the meantime, then running a GT2860RS.
PM me or send me an email here: mnietes01 at gmail dot com
Thanks a lot
- Mik
EDIT: R33, I’m terribly sorry for the threadjack.
hey R33 whats your timing set to exactly for that dyno run ?
that sounds great man keep me tuned in on your progress…
300-350 torque is mad easy on a single cam ka,i seen that u said uv got the bottom end planned out but here is my advice: put in forged pistons,you can leave the stock rods alone or just get them shortpinned, arp rod bolts,stock main bolts are fine,cosmetic head gasket,arp headbolts t28 turbo 550cc injectors( obviously frontmount walbro,z32 maf,etc). i got news for you… 2.5 inch intercooler piping and 2.5 mandrel bent exhaust is perfect you dont even have to port the head for that power just get sri motorsports to refresh it with new valveseals, 3/5 angle valve job n ur good to go, if u want treat it with a cam,(just because u only got to buy 1 lol)head porting is good dont get me wrong but not necessary for ur goal.just remember to spend the money where its absolutely needed and most of all keep things simple. here is what should be on ur must have list,very good rad, swap in an SR clutch fan keep the oem shroud,(modify ur oil pan to hold more oil about a liter more is fine,put in a new oil pump if u can afford too)also a good OIL COOLER is a must for any ka and keep it tuned well(a wideband should be ur best friend).ur power n torque will be almost on par… trust me try this combo n see ur results bud… i will leave u to chose ur ecu/standalone so many to chose! you will have a very reliable rock solid ka… thats it! let me know if u need a hand…
DAN that goes for u too lol
As soon as I can i will provide pictures. All I can say about your build is over do everything. Build strong and then you will never have to worry about maxing your components out. I never understood why people would do a motor tare down and build for power with cheaping out on components. Use good ARP head studs, good clevite bearings, ARP rod studs, ARP main studs, good forged pistons to your specs, good set of rings, and build the head according to RPM levels you wish to accomplish. Main problem people have when blowing a engine is a poor build with components or the install of the components were not done within spec. When I build my high HP SR20’s i bored out the oil squirters for the bottom of the pistons, and bored all oil ports with a nice shamfer with no burrs. Take pride and care into your build and you will out last everyone else that says “That motor can’t take that”. Yes it can, build it right and it will exceed your expectations everytime!! Thats why mine and my customers will never blow one of SRI Motorsports engines unless careless measures have been taken by the owner. (overboosting engines limit with components used, lack of oil changes, oils used, over heating, ect. ect) I hope this helps your build. Do your research and plan before spending. If you need help with info I am more than happy to answer your questions and concerns.
hey dan put on ur wideband and a afc n lets go back to the dyno lets sqeeze out some more horses i garuntee that ur running a little rich b4 5k or ur ran a bit lean after 5k hence the jump in horse power at 5k rpms
true indeed
Or its all your internals getting nice and hot sealing the motor up better and getting ready to blow!! LOL Sorry Dan. I think its probably leaning out a little bit. Rich would puff a bit of brown smoke and choke off the RPM. Lean usually makes power unless you go to far and end up with detonation or not enough fuel. I would do what DA 1 said about your wide band. Then you know where you stand in terms of fuel psi during the rev range. I believe in my guages to let me know whats going on but my father also taught me old school and read the plug. His famous quote he always says and is true “The plug never lies.” Do a dyno run in 4th to red line then when you get off the throttle let it idle for a minute before shutting off the engine to prevent cylender walls running dry of oil. Don’t blurp the throttle when you let off. Just down to idle for 10-15 seconds then off. Check the plug. make sure it is a goldy brown. If dark brown…to rich in the high end…going grey to white…running out of fuel…to lean. Even with the guages and technologies out there. I still check plugs. Much more informative to me in my opinion. Hope this helps. DA 1. You know your stuff to. We need more people like you guys in this thread. Others I have read tonight are a joke and would discourage most newbs to sign up or participate actively in a thread. Asking questions gains knoledge. Seems here on SON asking questions means your dumb and a target for most. Lighten up people. We all used to be new at this and asked dumb questions. Now look at us or some of us for the most part.
^^^you covered that nicely bud plugs never lie…ur dad is old school n old school is the best. its funny how they used to tune big blocks with carbs back in the day even til now lol by checking the plugs til its the right colour lol thats why im drinking a beer watching my favorite “pinks” all out right now! watching the old school dudes kick some ass lol
old school rocks
for a NA car what do u tune the af to ?
im probably going to leave this car stock … I only did the dyno for fun…
ppl were saying oh u wont be able to put down more than 120whp …
the 3" exhaust takes away power etc etc
… so i just had to prove them wrong
3" Exhausts are the ideal choice for KA’s!!
I’m going KA-T sometime early this summer, so we’ll see what the KAE can dish out! lol
pump gas 91-94 octane 13.5 is fine all day @ wide open throttle
Thanks for the response guys! I’ll be PM’ing you in the future when I have some more questions regarding my build!
R33, I believe a 3" exhaust does lose power… I’ve got a 3" Bee*R on my SOHC KA. Only mods other than that are intake pipe and HKS filter. The moment I removed the silencer from my exhaust, I really noticed a loss of low-end torque. The mid-range climb to top-end improved by quite a bit, but it wasn’t too much of a drastic improvement to justify baiting your car with a loud exhaust with only minimalistic gains.
If I could do it all over again, I’d be running a 2.5" high-flow cat and cat-back… As for 2.5" cat-backs, no clue on what to run with, though…
Whats the stock KA downpipe-to-cat diameter?