Budget build. $4K = 10's

Builds
41

Yeah true on the 8.8 trac lock, ill leave it stock with the 3.73’s… save some loot.

I am picking up the WG from Oppie1 so thats covered. That DriftZone or what ever it is has TIAL 50 bov reps for $99, copping one of them too! … Saved some loot.

The intercooler talk. I rocked a Eurocustoms little guy intercooler on my jetta wayyy back, and did logs VS stock smic and tested the shit out of it. proven to work and didt its job well. It was an “ebay” core FMIC.

used an Ebay WAIC as well, again did logs DAILY DRIVING it and proved that it works… and didnt heat soak bombing around town. DISPROVING all the “you can use WAIC’s on the street” bull shit.

worked ebay FMIC’s on others cars and did logs on some too, no problems, and they work.

Its a rudimentary design, hot air flows over cool aluminum plates and wicks the heat away. cant really fuck that up. All the ebay FMICS, even some of the bigger name companies, all use the SAME cores. People slap a good name on them and the people who say fuck ebay junk look at the SAMETHING and are like “now thats an FMIC!” LOL.

The big dollar FMIC use “better” cores, Bell, garrett, etc. But I have yet to see any REAL tests, IE ebay core VS $$$$ core of the same size, on the same car, at the same part of the day and take logs… I would love to see it and read into it actually… so if you find something link me up.

Also on the shit falling out of them and killing motors… BRING IT ON. The turbo I am running cost $150 MORE than the entire motor did! Cant justify putting a $700 FMIC on the motor (costing 200$ more than the motor) just to “safe guard” it, and MAYBE gain a few C lower intake temps… which would equate to MAYBE 10whp being generous.

This build I want to be a BIG dis-prover/prover build. Once its up and running, BRING IT ON. It will be the guinna pig for what every automotive myth you want to try. Someone want to pony up and lend me their Doucher-racing FMIC for a few hours lets fuckin do it! I will flog my EBAY FMIC, pull some logs. Park it, and slap yours on in 20 minutes. Fire it up and duplicate my runs again and lets get some real data. Hell I will front the cash to dyno it part A VS part B.

42

the other $700 extra (assuming it will still be around at the end of the build) should go to suspension, or a good torque converter. I got the community F-bod radials if you need to save some money there.

43

FIRST THING

On the Burscher FMIC test. I only read the OP so far. just a sec ago. First thing I noticed is there is NO, video, pictures, graphs, logs, charts, NO evidence what so ever. Without that its completely worthless…I dont know them, didnt see it, never talked to them… its no different that Howard telling me he never blew up a motor HOW THE FUCK WOULD I KNOW. So i hope there are some in the other 24 pages ahead!

Second, how is the intake tempature dead on, to the tenth of a degree the SAME inlet temps on both tests??? Did the car cool down 100%? I assume the room is AC’d? Orrr is it? After the first 3 runs, if the room is air conditioned, it would naturally heat up a bunch. Not to mention its a mechanical device, engine, turbo, exhaust gas, etc… just cant be that consistent, no way. Or is it just dumb luck its dead on the same? ORRRRR is it playing the readers for dumb? “we better make these exactly the same when i post this or dumb people will say the results are off and start shit”.

Third, I find it incredibly hard to believe that the temps could almost double. Was the second intercooler made of plastic or something!?!? I have REAL data I performed MYSELF and the temp difference was NOWHERE NEAR those numbers with my ebay intercooler and running it down the fucking road in the summer! I will have to dig them up and prove it.

Reading the rest now. :ohnoes

44

Yeah suspension will be addressed. I want to get it running and put some miles on the dead nuts stock suspension first. get a feel for it, some numbers at the track and then change it up. Again to prove what is going on.

Sticking with budget parts. Lakewood shocks front and rear, make my own frame connectors under there. Box in the stamped link arms and panhard, replace the bushings, and what ever else I can see under there.

Converter will be a must, thats very true.

Thanks on the tires! we will have to talk. :number1

45

I think the best way to test it would be to run both intercoolers, stacked on top of each other in parallel, 4 open element sensors, big turbo, on a dyno with a big fan far enough away to blow across both cores evenly :rofl

46

DIS GUY! :rofl

I made it to page 10 on that worthless thread. No real facts, just his word vs mine… worthless.

I will video tape my test! start to finish! Cant fucking fake that!

47

BRB, selling my FP turbo/Buscur FMIC for Ebay goodies, and buying myself a weekend of hookers/blow in Canada with the money made

48

couple things i see . rad isnt gonna work . k-memeber isnt gonna work . 8.8 isnt gonna hold shit with a stock ford diff in it .honestly go to williams and buy a junkyard 9in . use mine to mock up brackets and whatnot i have a 9in ceneter ill sell get some gears and a spool and be done . there is gonna be a lot of hidden shit to do what ya want man . but 4k is low as hell for a turbo goal that i dont see happeng man .

49

Ebay Intercooler:

http://shift518.com/showthread.php?t=25488

Mike, I dont know this to be true for the 6.0L or not, however I’ll tell you a brief story:

A buddy took a carb’d 305 out of his third gen and put a carb’d 350 into it. Seems simple enough. However, my 97 non-supercharged Grand Prix pulled on it over and over, and that car luckily hit 15.4.

Meow. The catch is, after this happened a couple times, he did some homework. The 350 came from a K10 thus being a truck motor, the heads were built more for torque than power so his neato burnouts were all the car could do. The car 350s had a different flowing head.

My warning, or question, is since the 6liter you’re getting is coming out of a pickup (presumably a Chevy HD?) that is totally built for hauling lots of shit, not fuel economy or going fast, dont you think the car will be a bit slower than you imagine?

50

Radiator won’t work for sure, we already know that. K-member is obviously not going to work stock but it can be cut/boxed/modified. I suggested a BMR tubular turbo k-member for simplicity, weight savings and downpipe clearance. Automatics are easy on rears, I see the 8.8 lasting for a while with the power no problem.

Nothing is hidden here, it’s all fabrication and the parts are already there. I guarantee you that he can stay within budget if not beat it.

51

The LQ4 heads are 317 castings which flow almost identical to the 243’s that are on the LS6 motor (read: flow a ton better than LS1 heads). They have larger chambers which keeps the compression ratio down (good for this project obviously) and make great power. They share the same crank and all other parts, the block is iron instead of aluminum (~75lbs heavier) and the bore is larger. They generally make a little more HP/TQ than the LS1 with the mods being equal.

52

Its kind of apples to oranges. The old skool 350’s had millions of configurations, since they were around for 50+ years.

Think of it this way. Look at a 98+ camaro with the LS1 and what they do. The block I am using comes from the same mold. But mine is a 6.0l and they are 5.7L. +1 for me. Heads actually flow more than the LS1. + 2 for me. For forced induction less compression is better for higher boost… mine have less compression than the LS1’s. +3 for me. Truck manifolds have a bit more TQ but still flow as well high end as the LS6 intakes, both better than the LS1. +4 for me. Aluminum LS1 block is 75lbs lighter than mine, minus 1. The iron block is stronger, and if it blows a piston apart, I can bore it and put forged pistons in for cheap, and make moaaarrr powers! Aluminum block cant be bored they are junk if something comes apart. another + for me… leaving me at +4 over the LS1 with same turbo setup in the same car.

Thanks for the thoughts though, so dont take my reply as a rib poke, wasnt ment to be at all… just answering your question.

And theirs the tech to prove it. :number1

53

NO! It a tried and true build up. Dozens of people going tens on a turbo LQ4

54

The 8.8’s VS 9"

Parts for the 8.8 are slightly cheaper than the 9"
8.8’s can be found cheaper too

the 9" is much stronger, a bit heavier but worth it really I think.

I know the 8.8 wont like alot of tq applied in a shocking manor. IE, clutch dump without preloading it, hard shifts without keeping load on the diff somehow. The axles and splines take a beating and those fail, also the diff itself could fail.

The auto will be foot brake launched, and under consistent load start to finish between shifts, so the shock is much less for the rear end. More or less leaving it to physically carry the load/tq I will build.

Its like me carrying a 50lb medicine ball… I can do it once its in my arms. But if someone throws it at my chest, I will have a broken sternum!

I just have to search out and price out the 8.8 VS 9". the 8.8 is borderline/most likely will work fine… the 9" is just money well spent for peace of mind.

55

and hand fulls going 9’s and this combo with higher boost or a larger turbo, in slightly lighter cars hit high 8’s!

I am no longer the underdog for once! lol

56

Run it on E85!

57

Neeed moar injectors/pumps/tanks & fuel linezzzzzz

that def could be step two! For now its not in the budget, YET. :ohnoes

58

Fuck you, I wont tune it on anything but e85. The injectors you are using are already good for it. :lol

59

Go 9in don’t look back man . The 8.8 won’t handle it

60

will price it out shortly. Any idea what hub to hub width is stock on these bitches?

need moar pumps though right? I could toss a pair in front of a surge tank and make it happen if you want to man.