Just out of curiosity and to keep me awake, for all those running electric fans do you have them on a thermostat or a switch? I currently have mine on a thermostat but it seems to like to kill my battery when they keep turning on. I had a clever idea of wiring the thermo into my ignition but it decided to blow the fuse as i didnt check that the ignition is only a 10A fuse.
If you have them on a switch, what do you do about the car when its cooling on a turbo timer? If you turn of the fan when the car is hot and stationary wont it overheat? wow i cant type and my spoking doesnt seem so gooder, i should sleeep
i had my twin altima fans wired up to a manual switch in my 240. i kept blowing fuses and frying wires. after a while i gave up and went back to my mechanical fan…
I have mine set to a thermostat I picked up at Mopac. You adjust it so that it come on when your car warms up and shuts off when it’s cool. Never had any problems.
what about cooling the car down with a turbo timer?[/quote]
The engine/turbo cools down quicker when there’s air actively being pulled through the radiator. It’s especially important after you’ve been running the car hard because if all of a sudden there’s no air moving through the radiator and there’s still piles of residual heat left you can boil your coolant. Most of the time that isn’t a good thing
that was my point, how did you keep the fans on when the turbo timer was on but off when the car turns off, without popping fuses like i was when i tied into my ignition? That was the reason i went with a thermo over a switch.
i run two switchs one for each fan, inline fuse between the battery and and switch, and have one on all the time unless i need the other one. lately i never had to turn them on cuz its so cold out.
Every S13 owner used ign 12V cuz they cant find a Acc 12V in there engine bay. If your not lazy just use a relay and use the acc as your 12V trigger. I use a relay and bought that thermostat from Mopac and its been good for 2 years running. Kicks on right at 170 deg never changes. Its dummy proof. when your aftermarket thermostat hits what you want e.g. 170 deg just turn the knob till the fans turn on and leave it. Never have to go back to it again. I’ll take a picture of mine when I get home but its prob the same one that Dave has.
As for melting wires the biggest thing causing that is bad continuity. The altima fans work good but there’s too much messing around with the wires and connections. They have to be 100% solid or your creating more resistance causing heat. I ran Dodge intrepid twin electric fans in my convertible the first year I had it and was melting wires and blowing fuses just cuz of bad connections. I say using fans like those are the poor mans rout out. Caught up and go buy a good set of fans if you don’t want to run an engine fan anymore. You can get a decent electric fan from Mopac with no special discounts for $80 and they Will work fine. 2 wires, solder them and you will never have a problem.
One problem I have with electric fans is the shroud. You need a proper shroud to make everything work consistent or you will get hot when you hit big hills or going slow. I’m still working on that for my car. Prob have Rob draw something up that works for me. Anyhow im going to bed.
what about cooling the car down with a turbo timer?[/quote]
turbo timers are a waste of money IMO just dont bag your car for your last little bit of your drive and you will be fine…[/quote]I agree with this.
But I dissagree with the notion that running the fan AFTER the engine is off does any good. With the engine off there isn’t 1 single joule of heat energy being produced. As soon as the engine is off, the engine is cooling down. It’s cooling down pretty slowly on a hot day, but it is cooling off nonetheless. Your coolant canot boil after the engine is shut down.
Yeah dude, it can boil after the car is off. It’s happened to me :lol: While a fan running while the car is off doesn’t do much besides cool the coolant in the rad, an engine that is running is actively circulating the coolant through the engine and rad which takes the hotter liquid from inside the block out to the rad where it is cooled and then flows back into the block, yadda yadda. Now if you shut the engine off while it is still hot you’re stuck with a bunch of coolant that isn’t going anywhere and is sitting around extremely hot engine parts. This coolant just keeps collecting heat without any effective way of dispersing it so it boils.
Simply run a relay that is triggered by a ignition source. With a relay u now run direct battery power (with a breaker installed) and woola, no frying wires.
a electric fan and electric water pump will have the best cooling results.
they do make inline lower rad hose style electric water pumps, could use that when engine is not running, but use factory when car is running. just run the electric pump on a switch.
