well since u know so much about cleaning the internals of an engine with water tell me the negative effects of removing parrafins and wax buildup from the cylinder walls of a higher milage engine, if u readback i never said you cant do it , i simply stated that its retarded, and for obvious reasons, one of many being that u can and more so will cause excessive blow-by in many many cases on a higher milage engine,also by doing a so called"internal steam cleaning" of the internals of an engine u can effectively lower the compression ratio as u are removing carbon build up inside the combustion chamber as well as the top of the piston which over the year has caused many many cars to go faster than others, yes by doing a steam cleaning of an engine u can lose power , in some cases u may get better milage becasue u are makeing your engine more effeicent , but i many cases u will cause alot of undesirable side effects.
my posse is non existant, highschool? common, that was done like 10 years ago for me princess, maybe 2 college diplomas and working in the automotive industry for the last 10 years has taught me a thing or two, none of which will be surpassed by the few months experience you have gained working for active green+ross, or more commonly known as the lowest possible bidder in the automotive industry
P.S. is active still unloading a bunch of their locations at rock bottom prices?
Putting ATF in the oil shouldn’t make the seals swell unless a swelling additive has been mixed in… If you are concerned about swelling use ATF+4 its synthetic. I have used Dextron III in many engines before, I would recommend mixing 1 Quart of ATF in with your oil when doing an oil change, but would not fill it up with just ATF even though some people do that too. Why? because ATF is a fluid not an oil as some people call it. It is called transmission fluid not transmission oil, because it does not have the same heat dissipation and lubrication properties as an oil. I wouldn’t drive it for more than 500kms before changing the filter because depending on how badly gunked your engine is it could plug the filter up pretty quickly.
I have an old guy at my shop that drained his oil, filled the engine up with varsol and fired it up, let it run for 20 min or something like that. He took the valve cover off after and I couldn’t believe it but it did a really good job. I have no idea how well the seals and bearings are going to worked after but I thought it was hilarious. I would not reccommend doing this at all.
Water does seem to do a really good job of cleaning out the engine, I can see what hector was talking about with the build up and how it could cause much more blow by and other problems. Me personally, my father did it to all of his cars and the compression was ok after. If it did drop the compression ratio that much then the rings were probably worn and on their way out anyways and its easier to rebuild a clean engine then a gunked up varnish coated POS. So your only delaying the inevitable, nothing lasts forever.
I have never heard of paraffin or wax build up on the cylinder walls before being an issue on cars that weren’t natural gas. Not saying that its impossible, But what I do know is that carbon deposits form on the piston head, and in between the piston ring grooves. As the build up gets bigger it scores the cylinder wall more and more until blow by becomes too great and oil starts getting sucked into the engine. So like i said, delaying the inevitable. Its either you clean the deposits now and suffer minor blow by or don’t clean them and the piston erodes away at the cylinder wall slowly. Your call.
That’s why I like water injection, keeps the engine clean and cooler and seems to make it last longer… or at least I like to think it does.
Drain old oil, put plug back in leaving the old filter on
Fill with cheap oil and drive the car around easy for 10-15 minutes
Drain the new cheap oil out and replace the filter with a new one
Put expensive new oil in
With this method my oils practically invisible on the dipstick for weeks to come and im not putting any harsh chemicals into the motor. The manufacture never said to put engine flush in the motor so why would you?
hey just wanted to share my experience for the “engine steam clean”, i could see and smell tons of carbon being burned off and the idle is better, smoother revs and feels more “alive” ran water thru the brake booster vac. line
instead of trans fluid, “wynns extend tune up treatment” designed to be mixed with oil and cleans to remove varnish build up. this is usually needed for cars we buy that someone else has not looked after. as far as water, I would not put it down vac line because it does not distribute well through all the intake. rather extend a smaller hose into water and have the engine draw it in by opening throttle and use the hose opening prior to throttle body. the water will be misted into intake slowly. much less chance of pieces of carbon breaking up under valves an plugging cat
well i already did thru the brake booster, i believe that distributes water evenly in the cylinders, and sprayed it in slowly with a toy water gun. i had nothing put positive results engine is smooth as shit