really? ya the car runs perfect. Im so irritated 
Yeh i have bent the valves in my gsr motor before, the car runs like shit. If the car runs fine i can bet its the rod bearings. Do a compression test it takes 20 min.
a compression test wouldnāt indicate a rod bearing failure
ā¦Or you can look into the lifters thing since your issue sounds just like the issue both of the Subaruās weāve owned (and numerous others Iāve heard) hadā¦Iām stickin to thatā¦
Iām stabbing in the dark hereā¦since Iām no engine expert reallyā¦but maybe running some Gumout or Seafoam through the gas tank might āunstickā if something is indeed sticking?
It would rule out bent valves :facepalm
try reading
but she said it runs fine, if the valve(s) were bent it would run extremely poor and its not throwing any sort of code, correct?
trust me i know all about bent valves haha
Drain the oil,look for metal flakes,confirm fucked bearings
A valve can be bent yet not leaking. Eventually it will fatigue, break, and take out the whole engine. IMO you need to rule out all the other possible causes first and not drive it in the meantime.
You need to go to the dealership and not let them walk all over you. They are going to do every and anything they can to make you believe that they dont have to fix it. When the fact of it is if the rod bearings went they need to replace to motor. If they say you money shifted it, tell them to prove it. How can they say for sure that you did that? Just dont take no for an answer, or else you talking some serious coin to fix/replace your motor
+1 ^
GET THE MAGNUSON-MOSS WARRANTY ACT UP IN THAT BITCH!
make them PROVE IT!
98 NISSAN MAXIMA LOLWUT
Can you take a video of the sound?
How can they say you āover-revvedā the car? If its stock it has a rev-limiter correct?
Have you checked the heat shields to make sure they arenāt rattling?
time to by a type r swapā¦
iād just bring it to a good shop and stay the fuck away from any dealership at all costs. dealers flat out suck dick. they will backpeddle anything they can to avoid compensating you. they are not your friends.
if you are confident that the sound is coming from the cylinder head, iām almost willing to bet, a bent valve or 2ā¦ typical symptom of an over rev or moneyshift. i have 2 destroyed s50 motors sitting in my garage dude to moneyshifters. there is another m54 dead at the shop from a moneyshift as well. had compression in all cylinders but cylinder #2 which had like -25 psi. guess what? chunk taken out of that piston. typical valve float issues here. there are handfuls of people who canāt handle driving a manual. i see it every single day.
iām through doing pro-bono work or else iād offer my services. any competent shop can diagnose your issue. without the car being right in front of me it is 100% speculation.
do a compression test and confirm it is making good equal compression across the board. after that you can rule out a lot of your doubts. like i said, get it diagnosed properly. describing the problem through text on a forum to a bunch of dudes who can barely turn a wrench is not the way to go at it.
end rant/
Totally wrong, donāt anyone listen to this guy. Donāt beat on your engine until the temp gauge has been in the normal operating range for at LEAST a few minutes.
Trish, arenāt you the one bitching that VTEC does not work when cold? This problem happened due to some sort of neglect. Do a compression test and go from there.
And in the meantime, tell whoever money shifted it to stop driving like a squirrel.
Waitā¦ did you buy this car off stallmer?
thank you.
technically, you should wait even a bit after that. that is COOLANT temp, not OIL temp. if the oil isnāt as warm as it should be, its still abusing it.
:rofl