ever since i installed my megan manifold my car has idled in between 1 and 2 thousand RPMS. i have changed my spark plugs, did a boost leak test and messed with the idle sqrew and still nothing. i did take out the egr, that little oil catch tank thingy between and mani and firewall and replaced it with a hose as well as took out the carbon canister. any ideas what might be going on? also, on occasion my car will idle at 900 rpms, but it will bounce up and down from 900 to 1200. any help would be awesome, thanks.
A far as my FSM say for High idle/Hunting Idle. Check to see if the O2 sensor are in, if they are disconnect them, and rev up to 2000 rpm and then let it fall. If it does then most likely Air leak somewhere in the system. If not then check the Throttle cable to see if they are adjusted properly.
This is just generic stuff as the FSM I’m using is one for KA24DE but all Nissans have the same trouble shooting procedures in every FSM I’ve ever read.
This is just a shot in the dark…
A friend of mine had the same problem with his sr. He bled the coolant system and it appears to have fixed it. Something to do with a an air bubble passing through the coolant system was throwing the idle off. Not exactly how/why that had anything to do with his idle, but it seemed to have worked.
Is this just affecting your idle or do you feel any differences while driving?
no difference in driving at all.
Sounds like a pretty similar problem. Have you tinkered around with your coolant in the last little while?
ya i bought a koyo rad and changed my thermostat in the spring. the high idle was there in the fall prior though when i changed my mani.
CTS? if its faulty the car will constantly be in warm-up mode… just an idea…
CTS?
coolant temp sensor I’m guessing, or ECT to the rest of the world :E
changed my o2 sensor as well as my coolant temp sensor. still has an idle of around 1500-2000. any ideas? TPS? vac line possibly?
Hey Travy. appartently this problem is famous for the SR20DET’s. I have it also with my car. I am in the middle of trouble shooting it myself. What I am doing is downloading a FSM and testing the resistance, etc to all of my sensors to make sure they are all working properly. I am next going to replace all my vac hoses to makre sure no leaks. I have so far replaced my batt/alt/fuel pump/fuel filter/spark plugs and tested my coils, ignitor, plugs, etc. It all is working fine. I THINK it is a vac leak of some kind, if not im going to give up and trake it in and get it fixed. In any case, I hope u find your problem and if you do, please share it with me so I can fix my hunting idle!
-Ryan :partyman:
^^^
If all the sensors test out replace the idle air control valve.
It has a diaphram that is pressed down to seal with a sping. Over time this spring looses its tension.
ya i have also replaced my battery, alt, f filter, CTS, plugs, o2 sensor and i also did a boost leak test and got no where. to remove the idle control valve does the intake mani have to come off or is it located underneath by the filter?? im assuming the sentra se-r valve will work?
Actually it is located to the left of the oil filter, held on by 4 bolts? In any case, no need to buy a new one, just clean out the old one and tighten up the screw/spring inside? I guess they seem to get dirty and come loose. Well when I get home today I am taking mine out and cleaning it. Any suggestions on how to do this/what to use to clean it with? If not I’m just going to take it out and look at it and clean it with brake clean & tighten up the screw and slap it back in.
That will work usually. But the spring weakens over time and cleaning it will not always help.
And the FWD one does not work on RWD intake. And with a stock intake mani you need to remove the upper section (runners) to get it out
can be a few different things and every anwser is in the SR20DET FSM.
When you change your idle you have to have to change base timing as idle and timing work together slightly. I know for the GTR’s you need to have aac till idle is roughly the same then you do base timing and then you need to put it in another mode so you can adjust the idle on the screw on the ecu.
read FSM. I know RB’s very well but not the SR20 so I cant say if this is the same way or not but everyone that owns a SR should read the FSM. Everything you need to know and more than what shops know is in there!
Maybe find one in here:
That will work usually. But the spring weakens over time and cleaning it will not always help.
And the FWD one does not work on RWD intake. And with a stock intake mani you need to remove the upper section (runners) to get it out[/quote]
With this being said, can you help us with a picture and a mini walk threw on how to complete this task? Or point me in a direction as to where I might find one? I would like to do this today after work, but would like to know how to do it before hand rather than learning as I go when I see it. Any tips on doing this as well would be nice.
-Ryan
As allen said about go get a FSM.
It will show you
i tightened my idle adjustment sqrew almost all the way and the car idles at 1000 rpm. likes to bounce from 1000 to 1200 though. also when i come to a stop the idle drops down to about 500 then goes back up. i will check my timing and go from there i guess :anal
I already tried to piss with the timing. It doesnt get any better for me either. I hate this trouble shooting shit. =P :axe: