The K-series isn’t quite a bolt in affair though.
B-series are the best bang for the buck unless you get a crazy deal on a K.
K-series are the future and are only going to get cheaper.
I say buy a B-series until you can afford a K.
read this^
Be a man and just build the block already. Do it right this time.
Which B18 are you talking about, im going to assume a b18c1 in that case.
i would take an 18 over a 16, because of the bigger displacement, it will spool the turbo faster and im pretty sure they can handle more power. and be thankful you have an obd1, that makes life much easier
i think i could pull off a built d series for cheaper than that. Its been a while since i built a motor, parts needed include:
rods
pistons
rings
bearings
gasket set
seals
headstuds
then machine work (bore/hone) so the pistons fit correctly in a nice round bore, the block should be decked, as well as the head so everything is perfectly flat
the only thing you need to do for a k series takes about 20 minutes longer than any B or D series swap (remove pass mount and cut hole for shifter, or even buy hybrids bolt in shifter)
Why would you do this if anything get a ls motor do rods and pistons and have a pretty healthy motor for the same price. Also i was making close to 500 and running in the tens on my t3/t4 57 trim i dont see a reason to spend money on bb turbos when they are that small.
biffs boosted LS lasted forever
the key is caring for the car, and not driving like a fool all the time
You can get a complete LS swap for under 500, a tranny for 300-500
i sold everything to swap in a bseries besides axles n mounts for 700 or 800 (ls block, clutch, flywheel, gsr tranny everything)
my holset is bigger than than big16g, and is bigger than my :snky: turbo that’s going on my car… i think biff has a similar size turbo, and he was at roughly 11lbs making almost 300 wheel on a completely stock block, and i dont know why his motor blew up, i dont think it was the motors fault… cant remember
Motor/tranny/swap - 1k
turbo- 250
fuel pump setup- 100
AFPR- 55$
dsm 450 injectors w/ resistor box- 60
headstuds/headgasket- 180$
There’s an evo intercooler for sale on here for 50$, good for over 350wheel
piping made - ~200$
1g dsm bov-$?? (i have one)
tune- $$??
yay done
WTF happened to your name LOL. And not trying to argue but i think a turbo b would be easiest for this guys situation.
OOORRRRR he could just buy my set up and be fast and ready to roll
oh yea… i forgot about a manifold lol… whatever kind u wanna get… u can get ramhorns for under 400, logs for 100… whatever
and 38mm tial- 150bucks used yay
well so if i grab a b18b throw some headstuds, headgasket etc… what tranny would be best / cheapest for boost.?
I take a few days away and miss a ton, always…fml…if your power goal is 300hp at the wheels then b18b is probably your best choice, but 300whp is a lot of hp for a 1.8l engine that wasn’t meant to be boosted so you have to know up front that without modifying internals this is a crap shoot, some people have great luck and build turbo ls motors with great longevity and some people have builds that go kaput rather quickly.
as far as tranny is concerned id look into a gsr tranny and an LSD to install.
a 300hp integra obv isnt going to have as longof a life as an sti or something making 300whp
dont expect it to last 12 years or something rediculous
But it will be a lot faster than a 300hp sti. I ran my gsr untuned at 300whp for a season most fun i had with a car was that. Hooked up good on the street and was easy as shit to drive at the track.
The reason I mentioned building the d series was purely for economical reasons. No one wants d series I could get a y8 for dirt. Spend a few hundred on some vitaris and eagle rods etc. And it would be the most simple think to swap in considering I already have a d series. Not having to bother with motor mounts shift linkage and other bothers that come up with a b swap. Its just an idea though. I’m not dumb when it comes to hondas I am just looking for peoples thoughts
turbo B would be a great setup dont get me wrong, i was just throwing out ideas of a similar price
between 250whp na and 300whp turbo B’s i have ridden in/driven i would take the naturally aspirated motor for everything but highway pulls and dragstrips
k24a1 bottom end - 400
k20a2 head - 700
k-pro - 1000
mounts -350 used
swap harness -200
charge/engine harn - 300
axles -200
swap header -250
rbc /adaptor -200 (rbc is stock manifold from 07 si’s)
trans -600 (5 speed) 800 (6 speed)
exhaust -400
misc -300
roughly 5,000 for a motor that will put down 240+whp 170+tq and has the ability for upgrades such as cams/pistons that will get it damn close to 300whp na
thats
There are tons of arguments about this topic some say the longer gears are better for boost whilst others say the shorter gears are better because of the acceration. If I were you I would try and find a b18c1 with a b18c1 tranny
b16/itr will be the fastest hands down as long you dont have to shift into 5th
street car with normal tires id prefer gsr
ls is only for a stock car trying to get gas mileage and nothing else!
I have an 1.9l ls/vtec build that is like 98% complete. Its n/a and should put low 200whp down. pm if your interested. its all bolting things on to complete it.
I have yet to drive a K series car but my Stock GSR with a turbo was soooooooo much fun. I’m a huge fan of a boosted GSR