why not put the setup here, id like to see it
Engine
Block : B18A1: Bored .03 : Balanced to 10,000RPMS
RS Machine PR3 Pistons
Shotpeened, honed LS Rods
B16 Oil Pickup
B16 Windage Tray
Moroso Aluminum Race Oil Pan
CTR N1 Crank Pulley
ITR Oil Pump
ITR Water Pump
ITR Belt Tensioner
Golden Eagle LS/VTEC Kit
ACL Main Bearings
ACL Rod Bearings
ARP Rod Bolts
ARP Main Bolts
Hastings Piston Rings
Head : ITR : Stage 3 P&P : 3 Angle Valve Job : Decked .010
Supertech Flat-top Valves
Rocket Motorsports Gen 1 Dual Valve Springs
Rocket Motorsports Titanium Retainers
Skunk2 Tuner Series Cam Gears
Skunk2 Pro 2 Cams
Skunk2 Portmatched 1 Gen Intake Manifold
Edelbrock TB Spacer
P2R Throttle body gasket
Edelbrock Portmatched 70mm Throttle Body
AEM 3in aluminum Intake
Bpi 3in Flow Stack and K&N Filter
ARP Headstuds
King Motorsprorts Extended IM Studs
King Motorsports Extended Exhaust Manifold Studs
Hytech Big Tube B20 Header
Fuel and Ignition
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Aeromotive Fuel Rail
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
RC Engineering 440cc Injectors
RC Engineering Injector Clips
Rywire OBD1 Distributor
Magnecor 9mm Wires
Innovative Wideband
Transmission
JDM S80
Stock LSD
ATS 4.9 FD
Action 1 MD Clutch
ACT Streetlight 12lb Flywheel
ARP Clutch Bolts
ARP Flywheel Bolts
seems like a nice setup, keep an eye on those valve springs as ive had a couple break on me
I would never be able to run an ls/vtec my car is obd2. and there is no stock computer for a hybrid motor like that, so i would have to be running a p28 all the time, then when they go to plug my car in for inspection i hop on the failboat.
But now lets get a bit deeper into the issue here:
-Say i swap to an obd2 b series and I’m just running it that way before turbo, when i go for my inspection the machine will read that my car is an integra correct? And if it does read that how am i going to pass?
-Would it be possible to convert an obd1 motor up to obd2a, i know it would involve adjustments to some sensors, a dizzy, and I’m sure some other things. Is this even a plausible idea?
the reason nobody wants a y8 is because they oil poorly.
post up some pics, does everything have receipts? What would your asking price be around, generally speaking
Don’t give me that bull, i have seen tons of d series builds and turbo setups running 400+whp, its because the b is a better performance platform and the d is an economy based motor plain and simple
Please don’t shit up this thread, people who have owned real hondas are talking. Not the piles of scrap ef/eg garbage you are either driving and or trying to part out
as far as i know NY standards arent as strict as other states, the motor should be the same year of the car or newer
and getting it to pass inpsection with a turbo is easy
just use a stock gsr/b16 ecu for the year of your car and make sure you have o2 sensors and a catalytic converter and stock injectors
he is correct with his statement about the y8’s, they are known to have shitty oil systems and throw bearings pretty easily
I know ive been posting in here already, but wtf does there really need to be threads on things that have been covered over a million times on the internet. Make 300hp in a honda is not that big of a deal. And its been done for years and years, maybe just do research and figure out what you want to do instead of asking for input that your not going to take anyways.
i say no to dseries because the trannys are weak. you could get away with the built NA bseries, you just need a stock bseries obd2 ecu to plug in come inspection time.
I am taking input I am getting from this thread. I understand how to build a honda motor I understand how to turbo a motor. I know a lot of things about honda, maybe not as much as you and some other hardcore people. But that is why I’m trying to learn. I had/have a game plan in my head, I was just trying to see what other people thought as well.
Karter you have my appoligies
you stil havent answered what you will be using this car for?
what do you want to do with it, what are your goals
I have a built LS vtec in my garage it didnt cost me much-this is what i have in mine
B18a-50 bucks
B16 head-450
LS-Vtec kit-70 bucks
head studs-120
rods-250
pistons-400
machine work and assembly-540
im running a LS trans that i got for 300
CC clutch-250
light weight flywheel-60
skunk2 intake mani-175
a lot of my parts were used besides headstuds,pistons,rods. i have about 2500 into my build. not counting my turbo kit and tune
turbo kit
top mount-500
precesion SC44 turbo-150 (needs rebuild which will cost 150)
Tial 44mm (still looking)
HKS bov 50
IC 60
its not that hard to find deals. this time is when people are selling there things to upgrade for next season.
1 question why would you build a D and not the B series?
i dont know where you are located but there WAS a OBD2 LS i think from a 98 integra at pick a part in horsheads new york whole swap would cost 350 motor tranny ecu harness axels
Honestly I’m just trying to build an all around car. Good handling, looks clean, 13sec ish quarter mile times. Not really much just a reliable street car
you could do that with a greddy kit on sohc vtec no problem at all!
fuck. horsehead was the absolute shittiest roadtrip i ever took for parts in my life lol. 86/390 fucking sucks
After i sell my dsm i would still like to build an allmotor integra :meh:
going fast isnt really that cool, i prefer handling…but if u can do both that’s great
Your kidding or serious?
I figured around 300 was needed to get into the 13s. And I’m semi intrigued by the all motor idea, obv not an all motor d
i had 210 whp and ran a 13.4 with true street tires and in a full weight integra
a greddy kit will absolutely get you into the 13’s
that all motor b is good for mid high 13’s on street tires and low 13’ high 12’s on slicks
i went 11.9 on less than 300whp