this might be a noob question
but i’ve been wondering about this ‘hot-rod’ status…
all you need is a statement from nissan or so…saying it’s a hot-rod
however…do you have to update your insurance carrier with this info? I do believe that there is a hot-rod insurance as well…just curious if anybody on here has this setup…
^Yeah more info please…
Only rule i was told of is that the engine displacement must be different from what the original motor displacement was otherwise it cant be classified a hotrod.
If there was such a thing as a 2.4L bolt in turbo motor for our cars and we were swapping them in here, we would not be able to test as a hotrod.
Actually, these are flowing colors and I believe Benson has done even better. Myself, I only used a new Cat. I’m still running the O2, temp sensor that the SR came with from japan and I doubt I even changed my plugs.
HC ppm = 55
CO% limit = 0.12
NO ppm = 1024
curb idle
HC ppm = 35
CO% = 0.00
NO pmm = N/A
What kinda of Cat did you use ?
Catco. I think what altered my results is the cams…
what about JDM silvia’s with japaneae vins? are they put under 240sx or under silvia or under hotrod?
if anyone needs an etest, pm me.
oh, i never did post what i did.
went to guelph nissan and got one without a problem. still almost failed hot rod class for CO, LOL!
car’s legal now.
i just recently passed etest too. stock kade, cat’s so old the prev owner welded the flanges together and i really have no idea but it could be the original (288xxx km’s)…probably not though. i don’t have egr, no charcoal cannister assembly…
i ran a 1/2 tank 94, lucas octane booster, and guaranteed to pass. friday night i drove from waterloo to toronto and mileage almost tripled on the initial 1/2 tank. on saturday after bringing the car in warm and around 5/8 of a tank, i failed the first 3 times but gradually getting better with the 3rd pass failing only because of 0.09 more % of CO. i drove it down to about 1/8 of a tank by sunday afternoon, brought it back in warm and when i ran the 4th pass, CO% went from 1.09 to 0.04% and i believe HC was 0. forget my nox off of the top of my head but either way i found out you have to give the guaranteed and booster enough time to thoroughly clean things out.
another trick if you get to run your car through the etest yourself is to get the tech to note somewhere that the car is too low to be dynoed so they do a couple of static tests instead. i don’t know the specifics but there’s alternating portions of higher revs and idling. once you go from holding the revs around the 2500 mark for the running tests and are about to go to the idle portion, blip the throttle a couple of times, clearing out any additional gunk in your exhaust that the probe might pick up for the idle portion. i think this may have played a factor in my pass too.
sorry i meant 3/8 not 5/8…realized now that didn’t make sense