how easy to sand/bondo

i have some serious rust problems, and id love to sand down, bondo, just something to help spread prevention… i have a good 8 or 9 spots , none too big, the biggest spotis right by the gas door lid…but im not worried about paint just yet, but mainly seeing how easy it is or hard, as i dont do this stuff…

heres a recent pic of the car , it still looks decent so i do wanna salvage this jdm dreamboat
http://www.micahweber.com/sol2006.jpg

sanding is easy…just getting the right shape if on tough curves is the hard thing…as long as its surface rust jsut grind it to metal and even with bondo and spray with some primer…get a sanding block or 2…u can get them at wal-mart if u want

ok, let me make a suggestion if you go through with this. get a small harbor fright detail paint gun, and purchase some acid-etch primer…grond down the areas you have rust, and a bit of the surrounding clean area. spray with acid etch primer, let dry, even out with bondo, paint, and be happy cause that shit wont rust again for at least 5 yrs.

is this something i can do myself without fuckin something up fairly easy?

all i need is another year of rust free so 5 years is fantastico
plus instead of new paint, im just gonna vinyl soemthing over the bondo with some graphic, would that work (regardless of how gay it might look) to avoid the bondo and primer look

whats acid etch primer? Where do you get it? I hate rust

as long as u get ALL the rust out, it should be ok. u will kno if u missed a spot of rust when the bondo starts to get wavy and crack apart in a year. i would mayb even go so far as to spray a light coar of primer on all the bare metal before you bondo over it. i did one hell of a bondo job on my first truck, and the whole left side of the bed was constructed of bondo (not even kidding). it actually looked really good for about a year then it started to get wavy and crack apartcuz i didnt get all the rust out from underneath it. IMO bondo is good for small areas, but anything big i would stay away from it.

You can never mehcanically guarentee rust to be gone, you need to chemically treat it. Unless you cut area away

i have a question along these lines as well.

i have a spot on my car where it is rusting. the metal seems to be extremely thin in that area and if i want to remove the rust, then im gonna have a few small holes where the rust is. will this have to be welded shut? will body filler work here?

I Would have the few small holes welded…i dont like filling holes with Bondo…Bondo should only really be used to make a nice even surface…or to add a little here and there to for a curve…not to fill holes

ughh someone do it for me

talk to hrk hes pretty god with body work

66impalass is the most correct person here …

the proper way to remove rust is with naval jelly, 2nd best option is a spray on rust converter, such as extends

/story

hashing the shit out of the rust spot with a grinding wheel is pointless, and will not get all the rust out unless you grind away a massive amount of metal

and also, epoxy primer goes down BEFORE the bondo in this case

wirebrush off all the scale
light sand off more of the rust
chemicly treat rust
epoxy prime
body filler
epoxy prime
wetsand
paint

If i had some small holes maybe the size of a penny where rust ate through, mostly surface rust left untreated for a few months, and i have no access to a welder, what do i do? or am i fucked and in desperate need of a welder?

what may happen if i bondo the hole up?

keep in mind that i only need it to last a year not even, im not looking for a 5 year process

:word: only way to get paint to stick through the harsh winters too

i dont plan on painting… (like the real car paint coats)

cutting / welding is by far the best way to do i, anytime rust reaches the “cancer” level its WAY WAY harder to kill … what looks “totaly gone” can wind up coming back in a month

but if you just want to patch the holes, and they are small, this is the way to do it

sandblast clean on both sides
apply por15 to both sides
cut fiberglass mat to the proper size to cover hole
use POR15 as the resin for the fiberglass mat
do 3 or 4 progressivly larger layers (for strength)
prime inside and outsdie of panel (use a brush on the inside if need be)
rest of the bodywork is done normal

that sounds prettty do-able

would u recommend this?

http://www.ppc.au.com/kits1.htm

i would say that this is by far NOT cancer and is a result of me missing spots where there is bare metal.

guy who had the car before me replaced all 1/4 panels, welded em in. work was done nicely

then i picked up the car and there was a lot of bare metal(car had previously been stored in a garage. since i knew i would be leaving it outside a lot, i sprayed some primer over the bare metal to protect it. well a few weeks later i noticed surface rust, and the metal in that area is very thin and if i start sanding, im gonna go right through. this area in question is only a few inches.

so what u think of that rust removal kit? is the way u suggested more reliable?

zinc primer helps prevent rust from coming back through after you get it out by grinding/sanding/wirebrushing. :tup:

looks liek a pretty nice kit, give it a try