articzap and i have been trying t troubble-shoot this for 3 days now.first, there was no spark coming off the coil, so i got a new coil, and that didnt solve anything. then i went after the crank sensor. got a new one of those and that solved the no spark problem, but the engine still won’t crank over. its making these poping noises that are inconsistant, and it appears as if the valves are either not seating right, or the cam isnt in right, because its not getting any compression in any of the cylenders. it seems like evertime any given cylender is on the compression stroke, the valves open and relaeses the pressure. it really wants to fire, but everytime it starts to kick over, the valves open and compression is lost. when it ‘pops’ there is also some air being blown out of the throttle body, which doesnt seem right. we’re thinking that perhaps the cam isnt in right (i thought it could only go in one way, mayb not) and we were kinda curious back when i put the distributer in because you should be able to turn it either way to fine tune the timing, but it was maxed out one way, so it can only be turned one way to set the timing. so basically, ive boiled it down to it being something internally wrong with the engine. and im pissed. all i can say is im gonna be on the phone first thing tomorrow morning with the engine builder and see what he’s gonna do to help resolve this. what i’d like to see happen is for him to bring his fancy-ass car hauler over here and tow it back to batavia and fix it and NOT charge me for it.
i just want to drive my truck again…really, i dont think i ask for much in life…
Mike turn the crank to top dead center(keep in mind the crank turns 2 times compared to the cam) then pull the valve cover and see if the valves are open or closed (they should both be closed, and the intake should have just closed) then check to see that the distrib rotor is pointing to # 1 cylinder. sounds like its off 180 degrees
if ur timing was off to the point that ur piston was on a compression stroke and then the valve opened, the piston would then hit ur valve, and hence u would hear a big clunk, and then u would need new valves.
Also, I don’t nkow if you took the heads off or not but if you did make sure that when you adjusted the rockers that you didn’t over tighten them and left the valves open.
No, it’s not used to “fine tune” when you are completely off.
Leave it loosely bolted down and turn it a couple degrees, strat the truck, turn it, start the truck. Then when it’s running break out the timing gun and “fine tune” it.
i cant really do too much today, buti appreciate all of your suggestions and will try them. i was REALLY angry last night, and have since calmed down. i still plan on calling the engine builder and having a civilized conversation with him to see what he suggests.
since he didnt word this very well let me throw in wat i know.
-spark is solved and we are getting a strong spark
-we are getting fuel to the rail, known by the pressure release valve and the sparks plugs have gas on them
-when we put the motor at top dead center, as followed by dodge service manual book, the disturtor was maxxed out in one direction
-the popping noise sounds like a ballon popping. mainly on the passenger side. also sounds like its coming up through the intake and sometimes through the mainfolds, tough to tell.
-the popping noise is very irregular. sometimes it wont pop for a few seconds then next thing you know you get 5 pops in a row.
i believe thats all of the facts. ne1 have ne thing else to add?
make sure the dizzy isnt 180* out
make sure the plug wires are hooked up in order 1-1, 2-2, etc
make sure the cam was reinstalled properly in relation to TDC
Were the heads reassembled at any point during “rebuild”?
-when we put the motor at top dead center, as followed by dodge service manual book, the disturtor was maxxed out in one direction
What do You mean “maxxed out in one direction”? You mean it is physically blocked from adjusting any further? If so, in which direction: clockwise -or- counterclockwise? Dizzy shouldnt be “maxxed out”
its stamped in to it. if the dizzy went in the other way the cam sensor or what wire it is comes into the intake mani and if we rotate the crank again itll be tdc exhaust stroke.
mike needs to double check the wires are in order though
we dont ahve the tool to do a compression check…maybe someone can lend it to us. i believe the heads were disassembled to be milled down but im not sure on that.
heads were disassembled, milled and re-assembled. i talked to the builder today, and he said to check to make sure the cap is on right. he has the feeling its firing on #6 when it should be firing #1. he also said that i can take the distributer out, and using a pair of pliers, i can lift the gear that turns the distributer and turn it so that the distributer will be posistioned right. he was really cool about it and said if i need any other help give him a call and he is more than willing to work this out with me.