HAH right? Having to pay for a mortgage really slowed my progress down. However, it wasn’t impossible to save $ 
My garage is almost setup to where I want it, I could change a few things but it will do for now.
It fuckin better! lol
Looks legit man!!! nice build.
Thanks fellas!
Hey may be a stupid question, but are you in the military or just have that as your forum name?
Not a silly question at all. It’s just a forum name. My name’s Kamil so I just stuck with that forum name. There’s a rapper named Kamilitaryman too, mutha fucka stole my name.
just skimmed the thread. looks good man. :tup:
haha alright man. j/w
Got some stuff done yesterday.
I am also having an issue installing the WG. ***** Peakboost didn’t take enough material out of the “seat” for the seal on the WG valve. So the WG valve seal doesn’t allow the 2 flanges to meet, instead there is a gap of about 1mm and you can’t completely close the clamp. I have several options to fix this issue but wasn’t expecting that at all. Not much I can do especially since Peakboost is history. Oh well…
Here’s what Im talking about:
holy turbo batman! looking good!
NICE!
Thanks fellas!
Woot, bought some more electronics today!
- AEM 3.5 BAR MAP sensor
- AEM IAT sensor
- AEM FailSafe Boost/Wideband sensor (2-in-1)
Also bought some tools:
- Braided hose cutter up to -10AN
- Koul AN hose assembly kit
Oh and some exhaust hardware! Can’t wait till next payday!
I really wanna check this thing out lol. You’re probably close by and I’d never know it cause all the houses in cheektowaga look the same hahahaha
Haha, that is true. Well, maybe sometime in spring. I still have lots of work ahead of me. I’d rather show you when it’s nearly done than where it’s at now lol
if there is no gap between the flange and the wastegate i wouldn’t worry about it. i don’t think mine is fully shut either. are they supposed to?
Well yes, the flanges are suppose to sit flush. With these TiAL clamps, it’s easy to tell when they’re not clamping all the way, the two ends of the clamp are suppose to be almost touching each other. In my case, I have about 1/4" gap. When I used the flange that was provided by TiAL to test the fitment, the flanges met all the way and the clamp went on like it was suppose to. When trying to mate the WG to the flange on my manifold, I have about 1mm gap between the two and the clamp will not “close” all the way.
---------- Post added at 05:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:24 PM ----------
My solution (easiest) is to weld two TiAL flanges together back to back and use 2 clamps instead of one. The WG will sit about 1.75" further down & hopefully not hit my frame rail.
So, with the nice weather we had for the past few days, I had no excuses not to go into the garage & give the new tools a test drive:
I finally got down to business and converted my hard lines to AN. Here’s some progress pics I took.
Here, I made a double flare using a NAPA flare kit:
Some Earl’s and Summit fittings to make it all come together:
Almost there!
This is the feed line:
Next week, I’m getting some break lines from Chase Bays to clean up the engine bay ever more. I also decided to ditch the AC system. I’ve also decided to run a smaller Civic radiator to simplify the routing of the IC piping. Here’s what I’m aiming for (this was done by another member - ka_s372 on KA-T.org)
He still got his AC condenser, but I wont, meaning I can run the IC piping between the headlight “cups” and the radiator! It’s gonna look super clean once it is done.
I wish I still had AC, lol.
lol I won’t miss it. Even when I had the Z, I drove it with the windows down haha
We had another gorgeous day today in Buffalo. So I decided I’d tackle the fuel pump.
Here are all the tools I used to get the job done (excluding beer)
Here’s the cover removed:
1st, I gripped the rubber hoses on the nipples with the pliers and “broke” the seal on them by twisting them back & forth. It made pulling them off a breeze:
Here’s a rare shot of the fuel pump inside the tank:
The whole thing comes out by simply pulling the assembly off of a sliding latch that sits inside the tank:
Here’s the new pump. I had to modify the rubber grommet that held the stock pump in place because the new unit is noticeably smaller. It’s not the best but I shook the crap out of it to see if it’d fall out, and it didn’t. So I installed it as is back into the tank. Hopefully it’ll hold…
Used some butt end connectors from Radioshack to mate the factory wiring to the pump’s pigtail.
Tomorrow I plan to tackle the rear struts.
Notes for later…
cxracing.com: Turbo Intercooler 21.5"x10"x3.25", 3.25" Core: 15"x10"x3.25", 2.5" Backward Inlets Ordered!
cxracing.com: Al. Radiator For Civic 92-00 EX SI DX B16 B18 B Series Mirror Polish MT,3 Rows Ordered!
cxracing.com: 2.5" Stainless Pipe
TB -> IC outlet pipe coupler
2 5" to 2 75" 45 Degree Reducer Silicone Coupler Black | eBay Ordered!
Compressor outlet -> IC inlet pipe coupler
2" to 2 5" 90 Degree Silicone Reducer Coupler Black Red | eBay Ordered!
And some straight 2.5" couplers for IC pipes
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120757821369 Ordered!
Brake lines Part# CB-N-S134OEMC
Chase Bays Brake Line Relocation for OEM MC, inBay - Nissan 240sx S13 | S14 - Nissan 240sx - ChaseBays.com Ordered!
Clutch lines Part# CB-N-CLUTCH
http://www.chasebays.com/product/nissan-240sx/drivetrain/chase-bays-clutch-line--nissan-240sx Ordered!
AEM Coil kit Part# 30-2850