true. but if the weld is kept cool, it leave a nice smooth bead still, just not colorfull like tigging it right would. as you can see even in those crappy welds I spit on that pipe there… they are smooth without any porosity.
the coloration comes from proper coverage during cooling, my welds are very colorful because i use a 1" gas lens, and i remove coverage after about 8 seconds depending on amperage at the time.
I actually seal a room and fill it with 100% argon, and weld in there. Just have to wear a space suit with an oxygen tank to breath.
:rofl
didn’t painting the exhaust make it somewhat rust resistant?
You guys also have to remember that if you are using any cutting or grinding abrasive (CO wheel, cold saw, chop saw, grinder, etc) that has been used to cut mild steel you will embed cabon precipitates into the stainless before you even begin to weld. Once you get the pool going, those precipitates rise to the surface and the weld will rust regardless of proper gas coverage or back purge. Even using a regular steel wire brush can do it.
Gas mixes discussed are all correct. If welding 321 or 625 adding a bit of helium is good(although expensive) and allows you to get good penetration with about 10-15% less amperage. Same with aluminum, there’s a gas mix called “aluma-shield” or similar. Very good for welding thick aluminum or castings(heads, blocks, 3/4"+ plate, etc)
using helium in the mix definately allows for better penetration in thick materials. although mostly used with aluminum welding helium can work well on other things, its also a great way to get above 100% duty on limited machines. if you wouldnt normally have a need to weld say 3/8’s aluminum plate but a wierd circustance came up where you would need to, you could incorporate helium in your mix to get the job done. obviously if you doing thicker material all the time upgrading your welder would be more cost effective in the long run, but its a nice trick if you need it in a bind.
How can you get above 100% duty?
I dont think he ment to really say duty cycle, as in 10seconds on, 2 seconds off… I think he ment 185amps is what my machine puts out, I can weld 3/8th aluminum with it nicely. If I use a hotter gas I can do a little thicker material on max amperage that the machine will put out.
there are other tricks to get more out of the max amps on the machine. AC you can change the EN settings. Less cleaning action will put more current on the work side. remember AC is alternating, where the cleaning action comes from. say 60 cleaning 40 heat on 185 amps you can do 1/4 aluminum, if you take some cleaning EN out and make it 50-50 have the current hits the work and half back at the torch (also keeps the torch cooler) now you might be able to do 3/8’s. Pulsing also helps to get more penitration with less HAZ on the piece to prevent warping or distortion.
oh damn! i didnt know u have to be “kosher” with saws and stuff. its like u have to have a different saw for different peice of metal.
409/304/316/316L etc eh you can get away with it for general exhaust stuff. it’ll eventually show corrosion at the welds. 321 and higher grades should definitely be using separate equipment for any sort of work. food industry is where it gets serious when using the 316 grades because of health risks.
yea, i know about the health industry. they have to buy ASSLOADS of knives cuz of that.
ASS
Apline…your homo for going back to stock…
We will use your Denali for ski trips though right?
No, we will use the Cobalt SS Supercharged with roof rax and Thule ski attachmentz.