Maxwell's '74 cb450 cafe build.

Yeah man, I hear you. It’s kinda driving me a bit nuts too but my thinking is that as long as this has no leaks i’m just going to move on to getting the bike on the road. I have a feeling i’ll be going inverted sooner rather than later. Plus, I could certainly use a formal lesson on shopping for fittings lol.

---------- Post added at 01:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:11 PM ----------

http://www.dimecitycycles.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1//9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/4/5/45128-323-020-vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-oe-honda-cb-450-750-hard-front-brake-pipe-line-base_1_2.jpg

Here’s what the oem fitting into the caliper looks like. 3/16 npt? What i’ll need to do to run right from the caliper to the -3an(?) stainless lines I have. Let’s just say I DOOO pick up a line to run direct from the caliper to the resevoir, can someone help with the proper fitting. It would need to be at a 45deg angle to avoid having the stainless line hit the tire. Any help would be greatly appreciated on this. It’s my first rodeo.

http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=npt+to+an+fittings

http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/summit-racing-an-to-npt-adapter-fittings?page=2

sounds like you don’t know what sizes are needed, but assuming correct sizes, something like this should work, no? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220455b/overview/

that’s not 3/16 npt…it would be metric.

hang on, I have an email from my buddy down in ohio that did a one-piece line from master to caliper on his '77 cb550 with parts list…

this page litterally has everything you would need:

http://www.jpcycles.com/1977-honda-cb550/brake-lines-and-hoses

also, according to this dude,http://www.jeff-cook.com/2008/11/brake-line-for-the-cb550/ , that caliper takes a 3/8-24 inverted flare fitting, so to get that -3 AN, you need something like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-650302/overview/

well I’ll be dipped. it IS 3/8-24 inverted flare…basically buy a longer braided line, the 3/8-24 male to male adaptor to the longer hose, and then the banjo adaptor for the end to connect at the master.

I’ve not specified the fittings to the hose ends, because I’m still confused with what you actually have, since yesterday you ended up buying a fitting from NAPA that wasn’t -3AN and it worked, but then you stated today you have -3AN hoses…which are totally different.

This is exactly what I need… but it wouldn’t work, i’d need to have this but with a 45deg angle on it. The further the fitting sticks out of the top of the caliper, the closer to the rim it gets, and it’s already really close.

And for my next magic trick!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-r4281c/overview/

Boom, magic. I’ll get that on order tonight and a new single length of line.

:tup:

Fuck, so that was some misinformation from the other thread. I had a feeling it wasn’t 2/8-24. I took off the oem hard line and determined it’s m10-1.25, so it is metric.

I’m having trouble finding the same 45deg fitting but to 10-1.25 instead. Anyone?

I SWORE it was m10 lol…lemme go hunting for you…

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they don’t make an inverted flare m10x1.25 to a -3AN, let alone a 45* one…what if you bought that 3/8-24 one, cut the flare off the tubing, slide off the 3/8-24 and slide on the m10x1.25 from your stock hardline and re-flare?

Yeah, I shouldn’t have tried ordering stuff at work and just taken the time to triple check, oh well. I put it up against a banjo bolt and it’s definitely m10-1.25.

how is your existing -3AN braided line connected to the hardline from the caliper to the fender holding-clip?

---------- Post added at 03:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:05 PM ----------

http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?item=GR306-03-32CH

^ that might be the ticket! but it doesn’t say if thats -3AN…

Edit, that’s the one!

http://www.goodridge.net/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10551_64_48849_-1_67316_jic-to-metric-concave-straight-male-adaptors

Still not going to work. I still need the 45deg bend or else the line will be right on the damn tire.

Unless, and this is most likely a stupid fucking question so take it with a grain of salt… can I just use a banjo bolt right on the caliper even thought the oem line is inverted flare?

---------- Post added at 03:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:18 PM ----------

Oh shit, I just caught your :snky: edit, we can def re-flare it. Does anyone have the tool?

Got some stuff done today.

I put the rotor on and got the front end buttoned up for now with new ebc brake pads.

Once i got the front end buttoned up, i shoehorned the engine in and torqued everything down.

After that i spent some time cleaning some of the other parts i need to put on like the rear sprocket, axle spacers, etc. then I started slapping some of the front end cables on as well as the wiring harness, headlight, etc. I’m leaving the harness alone because it works. The only new electrical will be the rectifier, coils/wires, and a new front/rear brake switch. Here’s how the bike sits for the day.

Front end stuff slapped on. No routing done yet.

Getting pretty close. All that is really left short term is to:

  • wiring/ reconnecting stock harness
  • left and right rearset linkages
  • heat wrap exhaust and slap on
  • ‘speedhole’ rear brake cover and front sprocket cover. i have some ideas for this.
  • bracket for new rear brake light and plate mount
  • debug and tune carbs

-Paul

I’ve got a flaring tool…SOMEWHERE around here…I’ll dig it out if you wanna borrow it…

It’s worth a try. Let me know if you dig it up.

Coming together nicely! Now, we just need some nicer weather…

I don’t have any pictures of this but I got the wiring harness in completely last night and buttoned everything up in place. I also cleaned up a few wires, removed what won’t be used on the bike now(flasher relay, turn signal wires, starter solenoid, starter wire), and got it all zip tied in place. I’m pretty happy with how it’s all tucked away and routed, and the best part is that I know it works!

I’m hoping to get everything sorted out and start the bike this weekend. I’ll be going 1 up (150) for main jet, and I am sticking with my stock pilot (38) to start tuning. We’ll see how dialed in I can get it.

Hey dudes, I shot newman a PM about how he open cut his coils and put new wires, but I think he’s too busy jumping off of shit this week, lol. I know he said he used 5 min epoxy but I cannot for the life of me find his post or thread on this process. I’d like to try going this route before using these bulky aftermarket coils on the bike. I have new wire and everything ready to go and I was kind of hoping to get this sorted out tonight. Can anyone point me in the right direction without hacking up my oem coils?