OVERHEATING!!

SON240sx Automotive
21

Ok…

update.

newer rad installed (s14)
thermostat in

jacked the front up as high as possible, filled the rad with coolant as much as possible

unscrewed the bleeder screw and filled coolant in rad until steady stream of coolant was pissing from the bleeder

started the motor

used a funnel in the rad keeping coolant in it at all times

reached regular operating temp

blasted heat

observed bubbles…

squeezing of rad hoses, bubbles

so, basically, straight forward bleed right? this is what i am supposed to do yes?

after awhile of doing this, the coolant starts to boil and bubble in the funnel, it seems like more coolant LEAVES the system from this than is going in…

i turn off the motor, fill the rad some more, let it cool down, start it up again, do the same thing until it starts to boil again…

long story short, im still overheating.

i dont understand how i can bleed it better/more… the coolant boils and like i said at this point theres no way to see if bubbles are still coming because coolant is shooting out, so how can i do this for over an hour?

arrrggggghhhhhhhh

22

hows the oil ? are you running the stock clutch fan?

pics of engine bay?

23

a blocked coolant galley wouldn’t do this would it? well, the overheating thing yes, but not the coolant boiling though. you have the clutch fan still? if not, you have air blowing over the rad?

i’m not really sure what this problem is, but it’s a strange one to be certain.

24

its boiling since you dont have the rad cap on, put the rad cap on and take the overflow bottle cap off and fill it up a bit you should see the level go down on the overflow bottle.

25

yeah im running stock clutch fan

im pretty certain that after every time i flush it and put in a new rad or T-stat

when i squeeze the rad hoses the top one is hot, the bottom hose is either cold or just warm

they should both be hot yes? lol fuck. i really dont want to go to mr lube, pay them 100 bones just to get my car back in the same condition…

and the idea of putting the rad cap on and trying to bleed it thru the overflow… that sounds like madness… will bubbles release themselves that way?

heh…

who wants to help me take another crack at it?

26

The top rad hose is the water coming out of the engine- should be hot. The bottom should only be warm as its the cooled water going back into the engine.
Also, when you have the rad cap on and you kill the engine to let it cool, is your overflow bottle up to the full warm level? (The rad sucks coolant in from the tank when the engine cools. If its empty or has a crack or bad hose, the coolant system just pulls air back in).

27

If both hoses aren’t hot. Then it seems to me, like the radiator fluid isn’t moving. And i m assuming this is because your car is on idle. At idle, the bottom hose should be on the hotter side. Maybe you should recheck your water pump.

And while your at it, get a compression test done.

28

this bitch still bleeding …this is the 1st 1 i know to bleed so much and still live lol.

hey bud seriously tho go to any machine shop near you tell them the problem ur having. most machine shops got a bottle with a liquid in it that they can put in place of ur rad cap while the motor is running.it changes color imediately if ur head gasket is blown. dont waste anymore time go try that.i told you this earlier in the thread that i realy think its more than air just trapped somewhere.thank me later
uve done the right thing over n over with no positive results.the only other thing is maybe ur clutch fan is dead so try another 1 you can use a sr20clutch fan they are better.

29

OK. update.

We’ve tried to bleed it 2 more times.

We’ve replaced The bottom hose, replaced the hose clamps

also, re-done the water pump seal…

after doing this, it felt like success for these reasons. When bleeding, we threaded the bleeder screw in just a couple notches, so that air could come out but coolant couldnt, it would kind of bubble or fizz around the edges.

by the time the motor got to operating temperature (which happened fairly quickly, mucher faster than usual) we turned the heat on full blast, and ACTUALLY FELT HEAT! this is the first time ive felt heat from the blowers in months.

Bleed it some more, revving off and on, en take it for a test boot. still blasting heat from the blower, im pretty much free revving along as it was last night, the snow was falling nicely, i may or may not have gotten sideways hither and thither…

but now the temp gauge starts creeping ever so slowly… 2.5 notches from H.

so i figure ok air bubbles perhaps…

head to try bleeding more, heat no longer blowing inside :frowning:

bleed it more, now i have the boiling coolant problem again :frowning:

oh and it seemed to have taken a TONNE more coolant the second bleeding attempt.

but… this morning the rad wasnt really low.

i cleaned up the motor a bit, now im checking periodically to see if coolant is developing…

So basically… things were looking REALLY good… perfect almost…

then it quickly went to shit again.

but… i am getting closer. Ive been observing the temperature… and now i dont go full H very often… and, the temperature is very inconsistant, ill be getting hot, then cool down again, then get hot. I thought it may have to do with RPM, but i booted 5th gear to 3K and the temp went down.

This lead me to beleive that it was just because i was going fast = more air flow for rad… but then it got hot again. Then i drove at 3K in 3rd, cooled down. driving regularly in a gas saving type way, the temperature is inconsistant then as well.

But still not FULL H all the time, which is what was happening last week. no matter how i drove the Temperature only rose without getting the RPMs low, or just turning it off.

theories… Water pump seal might have been solid for the test boot, but due to cold and the gasket not setting correctly… ruptured and let air back into the system. perhaps now the seal is better than before, but still not right.

and, then theres the idea that maybe im still not bleeding it correctly.

sigh.

i want my baby back

30

Did you replace your temp sensor lately?

31

Are you using the same rad cap? Could cause you to overheat and it’s free to eliminate as a possibility. Just borrow one from a friends car that uses the same pressure cap.

32

i think ive used 2-3 different caps

33

and no i havent replaced the temp sensor

but im pretty sure its not faulty, as it shows cold when its cold, and hot when its boiling.

i can smell coolant in the car when the temp sensor is showing hot. i dont smell coolant in the car when the temp sensor is showing mild, regular temps.

34

You posted in my thread, I’m having the exact same issues. This shit is frustrating…I tried to loosen the bleeder screw and it snapped after a turn. Fml. Looks like I’m back to getting rid of bubbles through the rad.

The coolant temp sens. should be good imo if it’s reading accurately according to whether your engine is cold or hot. It’s just hard to get your mind around whether or not it’s just bubbles or something bigger. Head gasket is my worst fear right now, but it’s not blowing white smoke, so that should be good.

I’d say just give’r another go at the bleeder screw. Might take a few tries and a bit of time, which it has, but you should get it eventually.

35

yeah i want to rule out headgasket, i need a leakdown tester.

I have no smoke, and no coolant mixxing with oil that i can find.

36

this sucks man.what a fight…
depending on where ur headgasket is blown you may not see any smoke or mixing.im now convinced its ur motor dude. like i said earlier no healthy motor does allllllllll this.btw a leakdown wont show you anything along these lines

Did u try the machine shop thingy i told u about,it will save u lots of time…

37

I would start with a compression test, from there move to a leakdown test. Comprssion test is easier and may tell you what you need to know right away.

38

Next time you heat the engine up, let it sit for 30 seconds or so and crack the rad cap (be sure to cover it with a bunch of rags, wear gloves, take every precaution not to burn yourself with pressurized coolant blasting out of the rad cap). If the pressure has already bled out of the system, you have a leak somewhere, like in your head gasket.

39

Compression test i’ve done, my numbers aren’t lower than last time I
did it. Between 140 and 150 across.

This morning I started the motor, ran it
for about 30 seconds, turned
the
rad cap, and splooged coolant all over. HAha I spent 20
minutes in search of rad cap.

What’s this your talking about with it being or not being pressurized right away?

And the reason I haven’t taken it to the machine shop for
a machine rad flush is because I’m low on cash, and if it IS headgasket that 100 bucks I spent at a shop would be the same 100 bucks i’d need for a new headgasket.

40

Ok, simply put it is either a head gasket or the rad fan is not coming on.

Easiest way to check. First see if there is fluid coming from the front of the fan clutch if so replace. if thats good test to see if there is play in the fan clutch (move it back and forth towards and away from the engine. too much play, replace it. Then warm it up when it gets to operating temperature the fan should be engaged and spinning at engine rpm if not replace it.

If the fan is good its a blown head gasket. to verify easiest way to find it is using a gas analyzer and look for a high CO count at the rad cap opening. look for coolant in oil or vice versa.

Dude, the rad blew up and the pump seal blew for a reason too much pressure, so it has to be one of those two or a restriction somewhere… like a collapsed rad hose but i doubt it.