lol, good point, if it was me, i’d already have a power plan brewing. prolly why i’m on my 2nd engine in just as many years, lmao
I’m also more of a sucker for interior anyway (roll cage, race seats, harness, steering wheel etc…)
All the more reason to make her run better! Stronger! Harder!
Mines got probably just over 100k on her now. She runs fucking mint.
Smoothest 6 cylinder I have ever owned. Most powerful 6 as well…well, for it’s displacement I should say.
My 4.3 does have just about 80hp and 150 ftlbs more than the RB20.
Throw a turbo, cams and injectors on your 20. Get it tuned for 300-340. Done and done. They are RB’s! Just get a good tune. Reliable as can be. AND it’s still a 2.0L. Still decent on fuel.
So reliable eh, I’m gonna enter an endurance race than! I’ve always wanted to anyway so why the hell not…I’m waiting on some items until I see my school/co-op schedule.
do cams really make that big of a difference? and do the endurance race!! i’ll be your back-up driver lol.
Rb20s respond better with just adjustable time gears of you don’t wanna fork out the cash for cams
i was thinking about a set of cams, but do you have to replace the springs, arms, and valves at the same time? would it be better to just get a complete head job done? by better i mean money to power gained, or should a head job be saved for when your scrounging to gain a few extra ponies?
I talked to my engine dude about this a while ago.
He said the RB engines are built very very well. Oil galleries and ports. The rods are excellent. Pistons are meh, but still good.
The head, all he said is they flow very well for O.E. Very minor work would need to be done.
Remember, you want the air to be forced in, not just flow in. Bigger is not better in this case.
Cams are a very good upgrade. Anyone that says they arn’t is straight up stupid. Your letting the motor take in, and push out more air. What happens then? Torque goes up…spool time is shortened. Horsepower see’s a tiny up.
Built motor wise. metal head gasket, studs and your done basically. Unless of course your gonna push over 20psi all day long. Then maybe you should look into beefing everything up a bit. Stud the bottom end etc etc.
It all comes down to the tune. That is what makes a motor reliable or not. Too much fuel is not good either. So don’t think…HEY!!! I’m pushing a bajillion tons of raw fuel out my tail pipe and shooting flames! Cause that shit builds up inside the combustion chamber…gets hot and ignites…sometimes when it is supposed to, a lot of the times when it shouldn’t. Which blows the shit outta engines.
Not enough fuel…well, we all know.
Would just like to chime in as probably the newest RB owner on this site. I have had my car on the road for about 3 weeks now as RB powered. Now that I have driven this car daily, I am never going SR or KA again. The motor seems to always have power, and I’ll be in 5th gear sitting at 100 off boost, I drop it down to 4th and I have power on demand. Along with this my off boost gas mileage is incredible, and even still I have torque off boost.
I could not be happier with the RB20, but as many of you guys are, I have been bitten by the horse power bug, and I want more. Car is running mint at 7lbs of boost, but I already want more, all of this within 3 weeks. :lol:
In addition as well, is it just me, or are RB’s seriously some of the quietest Nissan motors? I have massive exhaust leaks, and at idle the car still has a quiet rumble to it but anything over 3000rpm and the car just screams.
The RB’s are ridiculously smooth and quiet.
Think of it logistically. It’s a damn two litre six cylinder!
The same exhaust I had on my KA24DE I put on my RB20DET just to get it on the road. I could NOT hear much of anything exhaust wise. Yet, with the KA…It was stupid fucking loud.
Yet, the big noise deciding factor here is having a turbo versus not.
Torque. Well, look at my dyno sheet. Quite impressive for what it is. All stock.
Down shift? Psh…Rarely ever.
I love this car most for monstrous hills. Just climbs with ease.
If you think your RB sounds mint now, put her on a straight pipe. Blast her at WOT @ 11.5-12p.s.i and @ 3,100rpm listen to the magnificent sound.
I would ALMOST take the sound of an RB over a SBC
i got a question for you guys i own a s14 and next summer will be throughing in a rb25det into it. i plan on doing a mild build and maybe a turbo upgrade. im debaiting on eather going with the rb25 crossmember or the aftermarket mounting kits (mckinney) wich way sould i go?
That really depends on how much money you wanna spend, ultimately.
Skim through the thread, it’s been covered in detail.
RB25 swaps are expensive as shit as it is. With an S14 the dash needs to come out to do the wiring properly as well. Which in turn = more time and/or money.
My question is Rb20 or swap an RB25 in. It seems as wiring and some R33 parts will be needed for only a fraction more power. I don’t see it worth it for the amount of power I would gain.
well i am doing the swap myself. is it fairly easy to mount the cross member into my car? or is the kit inc driveshaft for 1000$ worth it.
cross member is easy as pie. un-bolt steering rack remove 4 bolts holding x-member in. remove ps line (hicas only) and out she come.
drive shaft…get one by a reputable source. dont want a shitty non-balanced drive shaft.
why not just go SR with a 2871R and a tune for the same price? Make more power.
i don’t think it’s a bad idea to go with the 25, parts are more easily accessible for it, but it won’t handle the boost as well as the 20 will(the 25 has higher compression)
as far as throwing in the front x-member, it’s childs play, unbolt the power steering rack, get rid of the old one, and put the r-32/33 one in. a bit more than that, but you get the idea.
if you don’t have experience wiring up engines or soldering, get someone else to do the harness for you. i’m an electrician, and i had a fuck of a time doing mine. i mean, it’s possible, but it’ll take time if you’ve never done it before, and it’s easily the most daunting part of the swap.
hhmm ok maybe ill just go with the cross member then saves me 600$ atleast. iv never really been intrested in an sr i know there good motors just not for me.
I love my rb it is one of the best engines I have ever owned. I like it’s sound and power delivery more than my kawi z1000. It’s so quiet that so many people think I’m a ricercari with a fart can until I romp on it. But I could def use some more power.
Alright, so im just looking into prices of the swap right now. Ive emailed/called Ryiad (Riworx) and TorontoJDM asking about prices
Both have given me different prices, ryiad for 1900 complete swap x-member, intercooler, downpipe. Then 80 for idler, and 120 for tensioner (I believe). TorontoJDM quoted me 1450 for the swap without the xmember. Is the xmember going to be very difficult to find?
Also, just wondering where you guys picked up your motor sets from.
I bought my 25 from Japan Direct.