Got it from Riyad.
X-members are very difficult to find.
Stick with Riyad. Worth the extra money.
Yah, I thought xmembers would be difficult, unless i can find somebody parting out a r32 lol. Any other places?
I have had nothin but good service from riyad. He even shipped me some parts at his expense. Great guy. Highly recomended.
In all honesty I have been in and driven SR cars, and comparing them to my RB (even with a stock 3"), the RB has a much smoother power band, and the turbo doesn’t “kick” like an SR and I never not have boost. For example, if I’m driving on Highway 7 at Islington sitting at 70-80km/h in 5th, I know 100% I can make it up that big ass hill with no problems.
As the other Chris said as well, on the highway there is no need to downshift at 100 in 5th, you just mat it and you’re up to 120-130 like its nothing.
Yeah, moneys a little tight for me right now, so no upgrades right now, but go with TJDM, they’re by far the best importer. As for tensioner and belt and water pump go to raw brokerage. As for the xemember if worst comes worst just buy McKinney, I have my 20 sitting on them and there is NO fitment issues, and I have about 5-6" between my CAS and my rad so it helps tremendously, I can almost run the stock RB20DET clutch fan (I didn’t slide motor as far back as it suggested).
Here is a break down of my swap price just so everyone knows what to expect if you go the McKinney route:
RB20DET: $1450
McKinney Mounts: $480
SMIC (piping as well): $100
E-Fan: $20
Wiring Harness: $200
Exhaust: $280
Fluids: $100
Walbro Fuel Pump: $150
Total: $2780
NOTE: I did not do timing belt, water pump, or tensioner as they were done overseas in July of 2008 at 35,000KM on my motor (according to sticker on cover).
Now of course you can use the stock exhaust, but I picked up a good Cat-Back for $200, and my downpipe was $80. You can also save some money if you go the crossmember route instead of McKinney and if you do the wiring harness yourself. The swap in total took me about 5 hours to drop in by myself, and in total I was about 10 hours downtime from getting the motor to making it run. As for my rad and driveshaft I am using the STOCK KA items for both.
SIDE NOTE: The McKinney mounts are the same for RB25/RB20 (according to my instructions), except the RB20 mounts have more adjustability.
Only problem I have had so far with my car was a high idle (I adjusted the IACV and that fixed it right away.) Also, for people who do this swap, go FMIC right away as on hot days the turbo gets heat soaked incredibly fast and use a S14 KA rad as well if you do not go Mishimoto or similar (basically same mounting points but S14 rad is 1" thicker, and also R32 bottom rad hose bolts right up to either).
^^ very helpful information.
That 200 was for somebody to do the wiring on your rb for you? or is that to buy the harness itself?
thats a crossmember from either a rb26 or 4 wheel drive rb20 , the crossmember u need looks almost like ur ka one
i c u found the home place of rb, that guy specialized in rb, i work there last summer, lost of wicked projects, look out for a red s14 with a black fromt bumper, all i can say is beware lol!! deadly rb in that car
they are so close you don’t really need the cross member. a welder, steel, and accurate measuments is all you need. this is from what i have read.
prace
That $200 was for someone to do my harness for me, I went through HeatW (Ted) does good work but its costly. I realized late I could have made the harness myself very easily, but I was crunched for time to do research. If you need any help just PM me, I’ll help you 100%, always love to see people do something against the norm (SR/KA-T).
Ok, well that cuts some costs then. Do you recommend upgrading to walbro fuelpump?
a walbro is a must for any higher performance engine. a FPR would be a good idea also, but not necessarily needed.
O.E R32/3, Z32 fp works fine.
No fpr is needed.
I’m running everything as it was in the donor car. No problems
awd RB20?:/:
Anyways, this was months upon months ago. I believe you have seen my car at CT with the RB. I believe it was you that came up to me months ago.
And the red 240…I know. RB25 on meth. woohoo
Ok, Im going to start collecting some parts. Waiting on my income tax to buy the engine.
What downpipe and exhaust did you guys use? I need cheap but usable, not huge modifications.
Oh yes I forgot about the FP. I am currently running a Walbro, I should have included that in my list. As for exhaust just get a stock RB20 dumppipe and use the stock 240sx cat and catback, it’ll be muffled as hell but will work.
Sorry for double post but I just want to make something clear. If you go the xmemer route and you do the wiring yourself you can have the 20 in and running for under $2000 if you’re smart, but I went the more costly route.
^^ yah, im trying to be cheap. so stock exhaust will work? If I get an aftermarket downpipe 3’ it wont fit will it? Sorry for noob questions lol
O.E or 3" fits. The only thing with my dp was it was longer so I had to modify my exhaust a bit.
Do NOT bother buying an elbow, no way in fuck you’ll fit one lol.
Ok, Ill just find an aftermarket 3" dp then?
Also, what tranny oil did you guys use?>
After blowing 3 transmission. I just use conventional 80w90
I used, Royal purple, Red line and Syncromesh.
Depends on how you drive your car. Conventional is best for all uses.