my KA always had atleast 550 km per tank on regular gas. if i drive on highway i get 650km per tank. and thats my normal driving too, dont need to drive like a granny to save gas on my KA.
oo and SR’s are shit.
SR < KA, RB, CA, LS1, etc…
hey guys been looking into a new t stat. which one is better one that opens earlier or later?. i always let my car warm up, so should i get one around 190 deg ? its a stock ka
My exhaust has black soot if you wipe your finger in it, I assume this is from running rich. My gas mileage is almost the same (19mpg mixed driving), even after an engine rebuild and 5 spd. swap. This means its has something to do with the components reinstalled, such as the injectors or sensors.
I have a new thermostat, cleaned MAF, cleaned IACV, new cat, new fuel filter, new O2 sensor, new plugs, new wires, properly inflated tires, rebuilt engine, new coolant temp sender, no check engine light EVER, recent alignment, new air filter, seemingly functional coolant temp sensor, solid idle when cold, a little rough and shaky when fully warm. WHY ME? cries I’ve spent so much on this car. When I put the car in neutral, it glides forward and picks up speed downhill, but if I’m in gear it feels like there is a lot of resistance in the driveline and it slows down, even going downhill at low revs.
Aside from what I said above, how can you diagnose internally leaking injectors or any other cause of running rich? Could vacuum leaks, EGR issues or faulty knock sensor grounding cause any of my symptoms? I keep trying to find relevant threads, but there isn’t that much info out there that fits my symptoms.
Sorry for the threadjack, but I think all of this relevant to the topic of trying to make your car run right, and get good gas mileage.
Synthetic oils, premium gasoline jesus, you guys own a 2.4L 4 cylinder N/A engine cranking out like 155hp stock. Get off your high horse!
The gas mileage is pretty interesting to I get always over 400 a tank with my car and usually over 450. That would be considered burning through 50L. I don’t got any advice sooo best of luck.
I’ll chime in
40$ / .95$ per litre (91octane)
550KM
Babied though , skipped gears, kept below 2k
70highway/30city
SR20
haha! thank you fucken so pissed i switched to syntheic before i did it i would fuck around soo much and never had to add ANY oil before changing it the moment i switched it started burning the shit, eats away all the good carbon, and seals.
syntheic for a ka it a waste so is premium and so is farting around trying to find reason’s to think otherwise. FUCK!
This always leaves me stumped. How do you manage to keep it under 2k? Mine does like 3k+ on the highway in 5th. Also, I find that if I shift lower than about 2200rpm, the engine will shudder and refuse to accelerate. This is with an undersquare “torquey” KA lol, how can you shift before 2k in an SR? Maybe my car isn’t running right, I dunno…
^ I was referring to around the city, once on the highway i’m steady around 3k-3.5k
I think you should start using Sunoco.
Some odd reason, I always seem to get better MPG, (or KPG) with w.e it is im driving. Weither it be SUV, car, Truck, bus? lol.
Plus they’s gots them fancy 94 octane!
Shucka’ m’uck! :o
Jeeze sebs when I had insurance for a bit I got about 300 for a tank Lol