SR20DE Build-up

[Hanzzzzz]

Hello, my name is Terry

This is my project, a FWD highport SR20DE from a 1991 NX2000. I apologize for the lack of pics on the removal and tear down of the motor, I only have 4, however i have taken and will take many more pictures during the build-up and will post them as i progress.

The first picture is of the spacers that sit on top of the valve stems, if you do not plan on removing the valves or resurfacing the valve faces it is important that you keep these in order, they are ground from the factory to an exact height so that the rocker sits perfectly level with the cam, if they are mixed up or u do not regrind them after a valve job, the rockers and cams will wear and eventually destroy themselves.

the second picture is the block, thes pics were taken in the summer, i am much further along now and will post pics soon.

Then Third pic is the head, it will get ported, polished and a 3-angle valve job

The fourth pic is some of the valve train components, it is a good idea to keep the camsaft caps in order, i would suggest running a piece of mechanic wire through them and tie it off. caution should also be taken when removing the cam caps, the bolts should be removed starting with the ones in the centre of the head first and move in a circualar pattern outwards. the bolt pattern is specified in the shop manual which you can download in .PDF format from this link, http://www.sr20forum.com/archive/index.php/t-169396.html it has all the info u could possibly need on the FWD SR20DE and GTI-R SR20DET

That is all for now, i will have more pics to post soon, if someone could tell me how to post in the text rather then in a thumbnail it would be much appreciated.

Terry

[_Punisher]

looking good but i heard sr20 is a pain to get into sentra but that was into last gen that it required fabrication?

[quote]That is all for now, i will have more pics to post soon, if someone could tell me how to post in the text rather then in a thumbnail it would be much appreciated.
[\quote]
not sure what u mean there if u dont want thumbnails just post the address like this http://www.torontonissan.ca/image.jpg <== this is just an example

[Hanzzzzz]

This is a list of cars sold in north america that came with SR’s and which one they came with:
91-93 B13 Sentra SE-R - Highport non-turbo SR20DE
91-93 B13 NX2000 - Highport non-turboSR20DE
94 B13 Sentra SE-R - Lowport non-turbo SR20DE
95-98 B14 200SX - Lowport non-turbo SR20DE
99-up B15 SE2.0 - Lowport roller rocker non-turbo SR20DE
91-93 P10 G20 - Highport non-turbo SR20DE
94-96 P10 G20 - Lowport non-turbo SR20DE
99-02 P11 G20 - Lowport roller rocker non-turbo SR20DE

As far as i know, the FWD SR’s with the FWD transaxles will just bolt up to any B-chassis car, assuming you have the mounts, half-shafts and crossmember from the donor car,

even a B12 will accept an SR http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/projects/nismoproject.php

Terry

[dubv]

looks good…good luck with the project…:R

[Hanzzzzz]

Well, I’ve got more pictures of some work i did a couple days ago, so here it is!

This is where i started taking pictures, i had already pulled all the internals and everything got degreased, soooo, this is where we start.

when i got the motor apart, i noticed that the rods, and rod caps had already been number matched, this means it is done from the factory or the motor has been rebuilt before.

This is a main cap, it is a little rusty from the degreasing process but you can see it has also been numbered. main caps are always numbered from the front of the motor to the back, (the big end that the transmission mounts to) Except for Fords, but they are gay.

Next up is the pistons, they are a full floating piston which means they do not need to be pressed in, the wrist pin is held at either end with C-clips, this is the best way to fasten a connecting rod to a piston.

I used the c-clip remover shown, and tapped out the pins with a hammer

This is everything apart, the old cast pistons and their pins can go in the garbage. they also make nice ash trays.

Next up, the rod bolts are removed using a hydraulic press. i chose to keep the rods because they are a very solid forged piece… and i dont want to blow an ass-load of money on Eagle rods i dont need.

This is the rods and rod bolts after seperation.

Next up, prepping the main caps. the surfaces that contact the block are sanded on a perfectly flat surface with 80 grit paper.

This is what it should look like after.

[Hanzzzzz]

Notice the cracks in the oil pump housing? this is why you always replace your oil pump during a rebuild… especially if you’re planning on a 9000RPM redline.

Next, I tapped out the rear main seal with a hammer and chisel.

After i finished with that crap, i started sorting some head stuff.

These are the spacers i mentioned before, they sit on top of the valve stem, DO NOT get them out of order unless you know what you are doing.

These are the lifters, they’re not actually lifters, Nissan calls them something else but the shop manual is like 2000 pages and im too lazy to look it up.

These are the head bolts, they should be replaced, SR headbolts are designed to stretch when torqued, they can be reused but must first be measured… its a pain in the ass… replace them.

[Hanzzzzz]

This is the chain tensioner. older SR’s (before 95 i believe) have an inferior tensioner that may not put enough pressure on the chain as it stretches over the years.

Im tying the rods to the caps with mechanic wire for a trip in the shot peen machine.

This is how they should look when they’re done

This is the shot peening machine, it is a big rotisserie deal.

There is a big paddle wheel at the bottom that spins really fast and shoots tiny metal balls(shot) real fast at the objects in the rotisserie

the shot is fired so fast that it actually compacts the metal that it hits, making it harder and relieving stress, preventing cracks from forming. this picture shows how the shot has actually distorted the side of the rotisserie

These are the frost pugs, i wouldnt suggest removing them… but if u must, just drill a hole in one side and tap on the other

Then pry on it with a punch

There are 2 frost plugs on the right side, 3 on the left, and one on the rear of the motor

if the cylinder bores hadn’t rusted from sitting in the wash tank, you would be able to see all the original honing marks. these motors really are amazing considering i disassembled a GM V6 with less then 1000km’s on it that showed more wear then this SR with 200 000km’s on it.

[dubv]

yee terry those motors are great and not soo hard to work with…btw i used to work in GM n’ their quality is
really bad…they don’t care about rusty parts in brand new cars…(i was workin’ on escalades and navigators,
don’t ever buy those!!!air bags are not safe at all
…waste of money!!!)

[Hanzzzzz]

lol, yeah, i worked at Sheridan Chevrolet Cadillac in Pickering for 2 years… GM sure makes a lotta CRRRRAP!

[dubv]

i couldn’t believe when my supervisor told me to continue tha assembly when
there are 2 screws missing on the main air bag harness …

[Hanzzzzz]

where did u work?

[dubv]

it’s a big plant under GM supervision on hw7 and leslie…

[Hanzzzzz]

OK, here is some more progress on the project:

here is a picture of the rods after a ride in the shot peening machine.

This is where I start prepping the block. I am cleaning up the deck so that it can be re-decked which u will see later. cleaning it gives you more accurate measurements on the mill. even if you are not decking your block, this is the correct way to clean the deck before head and head gasket installation. It’s just a 2x4 and a piece of 40 grit sandpaper. I am installing a cometic 3 layer metal head gasket, so decking is a must.

this is how it should look when its finished. sand at a 45 degree angle and criss-cross the sanding marks.

This is the prep tool i am using for the resurfacing of the other gasket surfaces. the yellow pads are for aluminum, the green are for ferrous metals (iron, steel) do not use this on the deck surface, you dont want to risk rounding off anything. if you dont have one, just use the sandpaper and the 2x4

do the front cover and water pump surfaces.

do the bell housing mount surface if it has corrosion on it.

The rear main seal mounting surface.

The upper oil pan mounting surface, as well as any other gasket or seal surfaces on the block that i may have failed to mention.

next up is how to prep the web (main web or block web i think its called?)

sand the flat surfaces lightly with the 2x4 and a piece of fine 80 grit sandpaper.

It should look like this.

next, file the edges very lightly, this is just to debur the metal from the previous step. be very careful not to nick the round part of the block where the main bearings sit.

not the best picture, but this is all 3 edges deburred.

I even did the round bit. none of the deburring is absolutely necessary, but it wont hurt, just go lightly, the goal is not to gouge out an angle.

[Hanzzzzz]

For anyone who was wondering how my motor has magically become clean, here are a few of the pieces of equipment i used.

This is “the blue tank”

it sprays heated water mixed with detergeant at the work piece at 125psi. it is safe for almost anything, (plastic, aluminum, etc.) it cleans and degreases the workpiece.

This is “The Red Tank” it is filled with costic soda and is only safe for ferrous metals, it does what the blue tank does, only better.

This is the Glass Beading cabinet.

This is the glass bead I used. yes i did glass bead my block and no i would not suggest it. in fact i would not suggest media blasting anything at all, especially engine internals or anything that comes in contact with oil, your valve cover especially because it is baffled, you will never get all the blasting media out from behind the baffles. The worst thing u could ever do to your engine is media blast it and you should not attempt it unless you know exactly what you are doing.

These are numbered punches, they are very useful during the disassembly process.

Now I will turn my attention back to the project itself.

use a pic to remove any silicone from the gasket surfaces, these indented surfaces are found on the rear main seal (shown) the upper and lower oil pans, the front cover and the water pump.

back to the rods, these surfaces must be sanded perfectly flat.

They should look like this.

next up, the big ends get cut.

We’re almost finished with them, these are the ARP rod bots ready for installation. Rod bolts are one of the only weak points in the SR motor, they have been known to come apart around 7500 RPM

This is the upper oil pan, i cracked it when i was removing the motor. i pulled the motor from my NX using only 2 floor jacks and 4 stands… the big flat spot on the upper oil pan made an attractive jack point on the motor, however this is the aftermath… had i used a block of wood, i probably could have avoided this.

[Hanzzzzz]

If anyone has any questions or comments, just post them, i know you guys have been reading my thread and i would like to hear some feedback, so let’s have it!

one more pic i left out, my crank. I’ve got some special plans in store for her.

[MikeP]

This is a great write up, very interesting! (good pics too)
My Father in law works at Sheridan (salesman)

Mike

[Hanzzzzz]

@MikeP

This is a great write up, very interesting! (good pics too)
My Father in law works at Sheridan (salesman)

Mike

who is your father in law?

I was just calling around lookng for pistons and here is some of the info i picked up:

JWT - they have a VG30DE piston, 10.5:1 compression that they say works with the SR, you have to overbore it to work. US $612 for 4, no rings, u have to order 300zx rings from nissan (a little iffy, everyone else told me the VG valve reliefs dont with with the SR head)

Arius - The guy i talked to was a jerk, 4 VG pistons with rings, 10.5:1 compression, US $581 no boring required

JE - This guy was also a jerk (i dont know what it is with Piston sales reps?) custom SR 10.5:1 compression US $620 no boring required, (on the JGY web site they use to say they dont recommend JE… now they dont even offer them)

CP - Told me to call JGY and order them through them.

JGY - The first price they gave me was US $566, they use only CP pistons. they are going to phone me back after they consult with the guys in the shop on my specific setup and requirments.

I’m probably going to go with JGY, they were really helpful and their reputation is impeccable. they have built tons of SR’s over the years and they really know what they’re doing.

[MikeP]

Steve Hornshaw

[Hanzzzzz]

oh yeah, he’s one of the new car salesmen

[_Punisher]

great detailed write up terry u know ur SRs man one thing im not sure is why r u going with NA and wouldnt u need a higher compression pistons for that?