SR20DE Build-up

naw, JGY lived up to their reputation of being pricks, and CP Pistons wanted me to do a whole bunch of BS before they would even discuss taking them back, im just going to use them.

and yes, i havent seen you in a while, where the hell have you been?

Since you’re going with lower compression pistons, how about a mild boost. Turbo you say?? That sounds about right :wink:

hahaha boost boost boost

kazz get in on this one. You love the boost boys.
hahahaha

nooo boost, all motor + sub 2000 lb. curb weight…

for anyone who is interested, this is the link to my build up thread on sr20forum.com

http://www.sr20forum.com/all-motor/191654-sr20de-build-up.html

there is far more technical input and information there.

10:1 comp ratio and boost??!!

woof that’d straiten the pubies!!

too tall you’d oonly pull of like 3-5lbs before you got into serious reliability issues.

be glad for the 10:1 11:1 is a b**ch to live with. besides boar gives torque…

everyone brags about hp…but 6hp and 100lbs/ft of torque would be an indecently fast go cart…just think…12 speed auto tranny…yaaaaa!

My road runner has 325hp and 380lbft (at the wheels) if I could jarry rig 2 transmissions in line that’d be a 9spd…(3x3=9)
I’d say 200mph is not to far off eh?
final drive is 2.71:1
and do the quarter in about 11 seconds…

hmmmmmm

torque is the main reason why we cannot beat the drag on our cars for top speed testing…not enough oomph to overpower that wind resistance.
tourqe=acceleration 0-60 hp is just the facilitation of torque after that.

there are electric cars in europe with 45hp but like 400lb/ft of torque
they accelerate like ferrari’s but top out at 180kmh.
http://www.acpropulsion.com

most electric cars have no transmission…motor to driveshaft to differential
13,000rpm redline!

boosting a 10:1 motor isnt impossible, i remember reading an issue of Sport Compact Car Magazine where they boosted a matrix. the matrix is built on the Celica chassis with the same 11:1 compression motor. they managed 7 PSI on pump gas. it’s my understanding that you can go as high as roughly 12.5:1 compression on a N/A SR before you must switch to alcohol, in comparison, 10:1 is somewhat low. the JDM SR20DE’s are actually 10:1. the SR20VE is 11:1 stock.

Kazz, there are some huge differences to the jap motors. for example: 20 degrees BTDC timing advance on an SR? good luck getting over 8 on a small block chevy with a holley. the long strokes and ancient fuel systems definatly limit tuning. not that i dont appreciate the muscle car… i use to think that anything japanese and modified was a “rice burner” and my favourite car was the 1970 GTO Judge.

torque? what’s that? lol! i’m predicting mid 150’s for torque, even that is a bit ambitious. however, even with only about 170-180 hp, i expect this thing to hand 200+ hp honda’s asses to them. what im looking for is area under the power curve. the large intake ports on a B18 allow it to make impressive peak numbers, but reduce air velocity at the lower RPM’s. this means you make 220hp yes, at 8700 RPM, then you must shift. now you are in the next gear back down at say, 6500 RPM, making far less power. the SR on the other hand, has a very linear power curve. generally you have lots of power between 4000 and 7500 RPM with no V-TEC lag.

generally big old muscle cars need lots of torque to get their heavy asses moving. this is a good combo because all that “truck like” weight shifts rearward over the back wheels creating plenty of traction. on a little FWD car like a sentra, too much torque will just create lots of wheel spin and broken transmission, a common problem with boosted Sentras. when a FWD 4 cylinder pulls off an 11 second run, generally you see an unimpressive 60 foot time and a high 1/4 mile speed. this is because it launches like shit due to no traction, then the turbo spools up and the HP accelerates the lighweight unibody down the track at a very rapid pace. by the time it crosses the finish line, it is moving much faster then the 11 sec RWD car in the next lane, but they finish at the same time.

electric cars wouldn’t suck if they were noisy. i like shifting gears too.

MY 74 ROAD RUNNER WEIGHS 3000LBS WET (TRUCK SCALE)
MY ALTIMA WEIGHT IS VERY CLOSE TO THE SAME.

AN 11 SECOND RUN IN A FWD CAR !!NEEDS!! TRACTION BARS.

3000 lbs is heavy :stuck_out_tongue:

put your car on ac scale you’ll be horified at what you see…
98 cavalier weight 2800lbs
94 camry and celica 3100lbs

dont read your door stickers its just advertising

cavalier? camry? old celica? those cars suck, a 91 sentra E weighs around 2100 lbs stock, same with the EF civics. its all about the early 90’s “sub compact” shit boxes. i expect no more then 2000 lbs when im finished my sentra (with roll cage)