okay thanks
+1 SG
Reason i didn’t answer questions about the bearings and rings, is it is completely useless and a waste of money to be building the bottom end. Even guys that race these engines haven’t been building the bottom end (Sasha
SR20 bottom end has been shown to reliably put down up to 350whp with just arp studs and metal headgasket.
And for some reason or another guys running built bottom ends have been running into more problems related to reliability then guys running stock bottom ends. You can do your own research on Nico, Ziliva, and even Son to verify that. There are however some guys running properly built engines ( by a proper shop), those are serious investments though (Dave Briggs DMCC)
okay, im gunna leave the bottom end alone
change in plan, getting a holset hx35w waste gate is at 12psi , one question will my stock bottom end be able to handle this?
Before you buy anything, read. when your done reading, read some more
when your tired fo reading
wait a week
and read some more
and then come back and you have answered all your questions by learning, versus being told.
LQ4 + T56 + cam + tune = 400hp all day/night/year long. It’ll be the most reliable 400hp you could ever want.
Don`t forget some rocker arm stoppers for longterm wear and tear reliability, a bov preferably an HKS SSQV3 should be good.
Also just noting stuff like a z32 Fuel Filter, Walbro Fuel Pump, upgrade the oil pickup tube to an S14 SR which is a good preventative measure from oil starvation or bad oil pressure problems.
I m still on the fence about rocker arm stoppers, and ppl that have been in my car would stand to doubt them also.
Why do you say that, pure interest just because I plan on buying them…
A properly maintained head, with good clearances and strong springs, shouldn’t have to many problems.
I rev the shit outta my motor, at like 7500- 8k when drifting, no problems, yet …
Everyone says this, Im currently sitting just over 320whp. It is fast but not near ridiculously fast, it depends on the person. Im thinking about building the head on my sr20 along with a HG and ARP studs. Gonna turn the boost up a bit and hope for 400whp.
Ive heard rocker arm stoppers are just an extra precaution but can cause 2x the damage when the top end fails because the stoppers throw the valve down into the piston.
Ive personally dropped a valve without RAS’s which broke the rocker arm in half. I swapped heads with no issue, had I have had RAS’s…maybe wouldn’t have been so lucky saving the bottom end components.
RAS’s imo are a band-aid fix and profitable part to manufacture which is why they exist, the real prevention of valve float is to not rev the piss out of a motor and enjoy years of fun. I think a rev limiter is a better prevention than RAS’s provided its not used for showing it off in parking lots which again would be pointlessly revving the piss out of the motor. If you want a high revving motor drop a honda F20c engine in there and rev around 9K all day long. The F20c over the SR all day long!
**and if you need 300+ rwhp in a “street” 240 I dont think you’ve quite realized the values you have in life and in which your fortunate to have.
Anyone who has rocker arm stoppers is preventing valve float and getting that extra precaution or protection in their motor especially on the more built motors when they’re redlining like it’s no one’s business lol.
I’d get them down the road personally, if you can afford the added protection, why not? I haven’t heard anything bad about them, only good.
got the motor today thanks to Dj-Infinit, sadly the build section is not letting me start a new thread :tdown:
Err…
What?!
^ LMFAO that’s exatly what I thought when I read that, Cal…
Hell id say T-28 and intake any you would be more than happy with the power. In a lite s13 she will go!
COOP
having problems making new build thread, says im not authorized to do it, wtf?!