What is your filter.

Supertech from Walmart because theyre cheap. Thats whats on the truck and the car.

Nah, bolts keep my engine together, but the filter helps :lol

OEM, cuz i dont need more than that.

K&N, becasue of the 1" nut, I cant get a filter wrench in there very well, and my pussy ass hands cant seem to tighten it up enough to seal it good on the adapter plate on my 1.8t. and it is 2X as hard to get off after 3Kmi. The little molded in nut is the tits.

PS didnt some other filter have this feature too?

The subaru gets a welfare filter, cheapest on the shelf, also gets Advance or supertech WalMart 10-30 every 5-10Kmi lol

Saab gets a drop in joint from Pureoilator

Other cars get pur ones just because.

Ktm’s get KTM 12$ EA filters. the 625SMC has 2 filters and uses 14$ oil too. I hate that oil change

PS Frams dont suck. I ran those grippy joints in my F250, for the life time the truck ran, sold it at 120Kmi ran perfect compression was perfect. My father bought it new and it allways used a fram. I also used the grippy jobbers in the 1.8t too, prior to the rebuild, when it came apart it was perfect inside. Now like i said K&N just becasue I like the nut and the $5 doesnt mean shit to me casue I am baller.

someone buy two cars run them on a dyno for 100kmi with one filter and the other… i want to see the differences.

you do it ‘baller’

If you have a transverse 1.8t you should be running the NAPA gold 1333.

Massive filtration area, correct bypass pressure, most durable construction, and additional oil capacity. The additional area will insure that there is very small pressure drop even when using the largest of oil change intervals.

I hear you on the more capacity and all the other stuff too… but the little regular sized filter is about an inch from the fan blades at it is, i dont know how a bigger one will even fit in there.

I dunno if its all even worth it in the end. My motor is built and runs its balls off, a few extra microns of crap will take decades to kill my motor, where as bad gas, clogged injector, fuel filter, aux pump dies, tune screws up things like that can kill my motor in a heartbeat… those things are what are on my mind when I run it, not my oil filter.

Not saying your wrong, becasue your not… but to me it is a moot point for my ride.

Napa filters are made by Wix filter.
the cheap nape filters in the wight box flow about 6-8 GPM and filter down to 8 micron
the napa gold flow 8-10 GPM and filter down to 4 microns
K&N flowed 10-12 GPM but only filtered less microns.
im not shure on the scale of microns. but gold was better than plane box.
i hve seen Fram filter fail do to much heat than the filter starts to self destroy.

In comparison to everything else they (Frams) are inferior.

It’s no different than talking about oil, as long as its there and changed at proper intervals it won’t directly cause the engine to fail, but if there are better options out there for a minute difference in price when looking at the big scale, why not use the better options?

I agree completely. I run the nicer ones now that I dumped some srs coin into my jetta. The only reason i ran the grippey fram was that it was nice being able to grab a hold of that thing when you cant get a wrench in there. I wish more companies made the cases with the little nut molded in. its so nice.

On this subject, anyone that uses a wrench to tighten an oil filer (to get it tigther than hand tight, assuming you have good access), is wasting time. You can overtighten a filter by hand if you try, assuming you aren’t as weak as deadbeat or something.