somthing that important used…:facepalm on a car with spray…:banghead
on a serious note, i do wish luck with it
Sense some of you clowns are busting on me for getting a used clutch, you should all realize that almost EVERYTHING I have done to my car, is used shit and Im still running flawless, think about it…
now, This is a email I recieved from the owner of the Diamond clutches on ls1tech…
"The Stage 2 will hold the power with no problem. I’m running it in my 98’ turbo’ed Camaro SS which is making 600-RWHP/TQ. Hell, I’ll make you a sweet deal on a use setup if you’d like. $370 shipped for a brand new one and $35-45 to surface the flywheel at most local machine shops. Otherwise, I can sell you a used Stage 2 kit for $220 shipped. The Stg 2 will be ok with the stock flywheel since it doesn’t get nearly as hot as the Stg3.
I’ll educate you further.
When it comes to clutches, there are only a few basic types. It doesn’t matter who makes them or which company it is. Every clutch business claims to have a unique product, blah blah…
Here is the basic structure…
As for the discs, there are 11in set ups and 12 inch. Then there is a carbon/kevlar (stock-looking) friction material, and cera-metallic (brown-ish hard material).
Next, there are full-faced discs & puck-style.
Cera-metallic does not work well in a full-faced disc. Since it runs so hot, it tends to get extremely hot and warp, thus screwing up the clamping effort of the pressure plate. Cera-metallic needs to be in a puck-style formation. The air gap in between the pucks allows for cooling that is desperately needs. Carbon-kevlar is ok in full-faced form, as it doesn’t run hot.
Hence the dual-friction (aka Stage 2) setup works extremely well. It’s full-faced (Stg1) on one side, and cera-metallic (Stg 3) on the other side. It’s a perfect mix of the two materials, resulting in a very strong setup that doesn’t not hamper driveability in any way. It’s a very popular choice, and about 90% of my sales are all Stage 2’s.
The SPEC & RAM clutches are all 11inch as far as I know. My clutch (Diamond), Textralia, and Monster are some of the very few true 12inch setups.
Most companies are afraid of the 12in setups as they think it adds too much weight. This is exactly why I use such a light flywheel. The 12in pressure plate is heavier than the 11in, and this is true for all companies mentioned above. However, the 15lb chromoly billet flywheel that I offer compensates for this and then some. The total weight of a stock clutch & flywheel is 49lbs and mine w/ fly is 43lbs. Eventhough, with a stock fly, you’ll be at 51lbs, it’s such a small amount that it doesn’t even matter. The 12in clutches have all proven time and time again to be the best clutches out there. At any rate, I hope this “crash course” helps you out.
If you have any more questions or want to place an order, just call.
Thanks!
-Jason"
he ended up sending me another email stating that this clutch had a little under 1k on it. What happened was a Guy in texas had this brand new stage 2 clutch installed in his wifes Vette. She ended up not liking it so he brought that car back to have a new stock clutch put in. I jumped on this because its 1. a good deal and 2. I already skipped the “break in phase” and 3. This is a cost cut I made to save some money for the wedding, but get my car drivable for the rest of the season. When this clutch goes, a brand new clutch will go in.
you guys can make fun of me all you want for buying used shit, im still yanking all of ya in my budget build 
Your shit sucks.
Wayne and underboosted FTW!
didnt you say your car was making over 600hp/tq on a certain shot? so is his 600hp/tq ss power relevant to your power with the same clutch? not a smart ass question idk how much power the clutch is rated for
there you go flapping your gums again…
his power ratings on the clutches, are at the wheels. He doesnt rate them at the flywheel like 95% of the clutch companys out there.
its rated for 600/600rwtq. I rarelly use the 150 shot which is 600rwhp even or around there. Its mostly the 100 shot thats 517rwhp/ 560ish rwtq. This clutch is more the capable to hold it.
look at it this way, the clutch that was in my car was rated for 500/500 at the flywheel. It took 10 bottles and finally drag radials launching hard to finish it. I put over 40k on that clutch, beating the snot out of it.
Can’t wait till my car gets done so i can S-S-S-Smokkeeee youuu
:crackup:crackup:crackup
You can smoke me from my running terms then.
dig or 20. Anything else, try sucking your own dick.
ahhh kkk yea u got some serious use out of an underrated cloooch lol
My cars actually tuned. Lets go from a dig right now. Il meet you at the park n ride at 7 o’clock. All Il do is a dig, roll racing is for pussies.
sounds good. See you at 7.
Oh stop drew I was playing…oh and if I’m out of work I’m in asvwell
yep… running a special hexar turbo… 55psi, making around 1000 horse
good explanation , i think you made a good decision with it then . Ball busting retracted.
in all seriousness dude, what do you expect with your car after its tuned? what fuel are you going to be running?
:cone
whats that cone mean?
Its the symbol for “bought not built”.
Clueless, and from what I’ve seen of your work, you should continue to pay people to fix your shit
blockhead