You guys make this call.......

Ok, well a situation was brought to my attention that I feel is quite absurd and would like to see what you guys think about it. My buddy’s blazer is having problems that require a radiator flush, and refill. It was posted up on the forums as he was looking to get a good deal on it because he has never done one before. So he gets a PM from everyone’s “favorite” shop around the area and this is how it went…

Quote:
Originally Posted by ???
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carnut
[I]What kind of car is it?

98 blazer[/I]

OOOOOHHHH a flush on those runs something like 6 hours. There is a complete special procedure for flushing them due to the dex cool. If you would like just a normal flush with a thermostat change you are looking at 1.1 top replace the Tstat. If you do that I will just replace the coolant that is in it as part of the job. Like I said though I used to have to do those flushes at the GM dealer when I worked there and it was rediculous. These vehicles had alot of problems with their cooling systems plugging up due to the dex cool.

If you want the T stat changed you are looking at $77 plus coolant,

If you want the complete GM proper flush then it is $420 plus coolant and I will put the T stat in for free.

Don
Hybrid
Don


Hybrid Connection
2756 Transit Road
West Seneca, NY 14224
716-674-2772
In Hybrid We Trust ~ :headbang:
www.HybridConnection.com

Now after some quick searching, I came across a few links that say other wise…http://www.centerchevrolet.com/index.cfm?action=Service&subaction=servicerates their price is near the bottom($119.95) and I also checked the paddock services http://www.paddockchevrolet.com/paddock_service.aspx?_TemplateID=19 Their 60,000 mile service is even cheaper($318.55) than this pricing, and it includes a radiator flush(flush is $99.99). To me it seems that a certain someone is trying to gouge pricing because he thinks that people are dumb. That’s a really classy move…

to be honest, i think 9 times out of 10 when we do 60k services at paddock, they usually just drain whats in there and refill it…they dont actually ‘flush’ it when its part of the package it seems like.

I see a thread closing in your future…

It’s every shops right to price it how they feel. That’s why you shop around…if everyone bought the first price they were quoted I know I would have a lot less $. If you think it is ridiculous then obviously shop around and see if you can do better. I do not think that calling out a shop for gouging is at all the proper response. If you find a better price just go to that place. Quit trying to stir up a pot for no reason.

[quote=“2TurboZ,post:3,topic:25049"”]

I see a thread closing in your future…

It’s every shops right to price it how they feel. That’s why you shop around…if everyone bought the first price they were quoted I know I would have a lot less $. If you think it is ridiculous then obviously shop around and see if you can do better. I do not think that calling out a shop for gouging is at all the proper response. If you find a better price just go to that place. Quit trying to stir up a pot for no reason.

[/quote]

Im pretty sure that price gouging is a pretty shady business practice and not a way to make repeat customers. I understand he’s trying to make a living and all but this is NOT the way to do it. not to mention that he PM’d my friend about it, it wasn’t the other way around…

ok, so shop labor rate is , $60, and the t-stat takes 1.1 hours, and the job will cost $77

first hour = 60
the tenth = $6
the T-stat = ???
the gasket = ???
topping off the coolant = ???
dumping any old coolant = ???

all the ???'s can easily add up to the extra $11

if he doesnt like shop rates, he should do it himself
if he doesnt like how much the flush costs, he should do it himself

now if he had actualy taken it in, and had the work done, THEN found out what the price was, that would be something a bit different (partly his fault for not asking, partly hybrids fault for not saying)

and ONLY if that had happened would you have been able to bitch about price gouging

I worked at an oil change place and have flushed coolant before with our little pressure machine that sucks all the coolant out and then lets the pressure pull all the new coolant back in.

Took 20 minutes tops. We had done blazers before. I’m not saying by GM standards you aren’t supposed to do it another way that takes longer, but we had done it that way many times without any problems.

If it trully is a 6 hours job, then that price is pretty damn close. As for how long it really takes on those cars and motors, I can not say seeing I’ve never worked on one.

[quote=“05OrangeSS,post:4,topic:25049"”]

Im pretty sure that price gouging is a pretty shady business practice and not a way to make repeat customers. I understand he’s trying to make a living and all but this is NOT the way to do it. not to mention that he PM’d my friend about it, it wasn’t the other way around…

[/quote]

Bottom line…if you dont like the price move on to another shop.

It’s not like your friend had the work done and then was pissed at the bill…it was a simple quote…you don’t like it…move on SIMPLE

after re-reading this and thinking about it, i think that 6.6 hour job for $420 is like worst case scenario. i dont think blazers have THAT many problems with coolant sludging and plugging (not saying it doest happen, because i know it does) so i would maybe expect the actual cost of the job to be significantly less.

that said, if the job only takes him, lets say, 2 hours and he still charges you for the 6.6, then you have a problem because thats pretty shitty, BUT most shops dont pull that kind of crap (im not even sure if they can legally?)

[quote=“MikeRi24,post:9,topic:25049"”]

that said, if the job only takes him, lets say, 2 hours and he still charges you for the 6.6, then you have a problem because thats pretty shitty, BUT most shops dont pull that kind of crap (im not even sure if they can legally?)

[/quote]

depends on what the job is, is which shop it is in question

lets say its an engine swap, book says it takes 13hours, the mechanic who does that work has done 54682 of the exact same engine swap because the engine in question has a factory flaw

said mechanic is obviously good enough to do the swap with his eyes closed, takes him 5 hours because he has a “system”

you pay: 13hours, or maybe as little as 9hours if the shop is feeling generous

[quote=“MikeRi24,post:9,topic:25049"”]

that said, if the job only takes him, lets say, 2 hours and he still charges you for the 6.6, then you have a problem because thats pretty shitty, BUT most shops dont pull that kind of crap (im not even sure if they can legally?)

[/quote]

Why can’t a shop do it this way? If the shop charges from a flat rate book and they put their best tech on, it of course you are paying extra compared to the time it actually took. Not saying it’s a great system, but you don’t have much of a choice when you can’t do the work yourself.

Important: ^ If available, use coolant exchanger Pro-Fill 42-75100-KM, Power Flush 211-07601/DEX (available through the GM Dealer Equipment program), or equivalent to evacuate the system of coolant. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for exchanging used coolant with new coolant. However, for this procedure, use water in place of new coolant. Be sure to exchange 1-1/2 times the cooling system capacity of the vehicle with water. This will ensure that only water remains within the cooling system. Once the coolant has been displaced with water, drain the water from the radiator.

^ If you are located within an area which regulates the disposal of used coolant (check with your local water treatment facility), all coolant and coolant (water mixture must be captured until the water runs clear of coolant. Use a clean 208 L (55 gal) drum or similar to contain the waste coolant. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-02-006 for information on coolant recycling and removal services.

  1. Drain and properly dispose of the coolant.

Caution: Any obstructions in the hoses to or from the coolant recovery bottle may cause over pressurization of the cooling system. This over pressurization could result in serious personal injury.

  1. Inspect the following hoses in order to assure there are no obstructions and the coolant is able to flow freely:

^ The hose to the coolant recovery bottle.

^ The relief hose from the coolant recovery bottle.

  1. Disconnect both coolant hoses to the heater core from the engine.

  2. Back flush the heater core for 5 minutes after clear water is present. Pressurized water not to exceed 345 Kpa (50 psi), may be used.

  3. Reinstall the heater return hose to the engine.

  4. Install the radiator cap and properly tighten.

  5. Install the “T” from the flush and fill kit to a 25.4cm (10 in) piece of 19 mm (1/4 in) heater hose. Tighten the clamp.

  6. Install the hose to the engine. Tighten the clamp.

  7. Install the other end of the "Tin the heater core inlet hose. Tighten the clamp.

  8. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator. Properly position the hose, so the accessory drive belt or any pulley/belt cannot touch the hose.

  9. If you used coolant exchange equipment, disconnect it.

  10. Attach a garden hose to the “T” of the flush and fill kit. Turn on the water and back flush the cooling system for at least two minutes after the water runs clear.

  11. Start the engine and continue back flushing the cooling system for five additional minutes.

  12. Turn the engine “OFF”.

  13. Turn the water “OFF”.

  14. Re-attach the upper radiator hose to the radiator.

  15. Open the radiator drain and drain all water from the radiator.

  16. Remove the lower left water pump crossover bolt. This allows lowering the water level in the left side of the engine.

  17. After the water stops running from the water pump bolt hole, reinstall the bolt.

  18. Close the radiator drain.

  19. Mix the Prestone® Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner, GM P/N 12346500, in approximately 3 L (3 qt) of warm water. Pour the mixture into the radiator. Top off the system with plain water and reinstall the radiator cap.

  20. Run the engine at 1600 to 1800 RPM with the air conditioning in the maximum cool position.

To achieve the 1600 to 1800 RPM, place a dime between the closed throttle stop and the screw. This screw should never be adjusted, under any circumstance. Its only purpose is to keep the throttle plate from sticking in the bore when the throttle is slammed shut. It is not a minimum idle (RPM) control adjustment screw.

Important: It is imperative that all air pockets have been removed from the cooling system in order for the cleaning procedure to be effective

Service Procedure A

For Service Procedure A, the cleaner should be left in the system for three hours (after normal operating temperature of the cooling system has been achieved). Normal operating temperature is when the coolant temperature stabilizes around 98°C (200°F). The best results are obtained when the coolant temperature is between 98°C (200°F) and 110°C (230°F). DO NOT EXCEED 113°C (235°F). Use the Scan Tool to determine when this point has been reached. When this temperature has been reached, start the clock. Periodically (every twenty minutes or so), monitor the coolant temperature and engine during the three hour run time. A half hour has been built into the actual labor time to cover for the time spent monitoring the engine, etc.

In order to achieve a constant temperature of 98°C (200°F) to 110°C (230°F) during this procedure, maintain the idle speed, turn on the A/C or partially close the hood.

Service Procedure B

For Service Procedure B, the cleaner should be left in the system for two and a half hours (after normal operating temperature of the cooling system has been achieved). Normal operating temperature is when the coolant temperature stabilizes around 98°C (200°F). The best results are obtained when the coolant temperature is between 98°C (200°F) and 110°C (230°F). DO NOT EXCEED 113°C (235°F). Use the Scan Tool to determine when this point has been reached. When this temperature has been reached, start the clock. Periodically (every twenty minutes or so), monitor the coolant temperature and engine during the two and a half hour run time. A half hour has been built into the actual labor time to cover for the time spent monitoring the engine, etc.

In order to achieve a constant temperature of 98°C (200°F) to 110°C (230°F) during this procedure, maintain the idle speed, turn on the A/C or partially close the hood.

Important: The vehicle should not be left idling outdoors when the ambient temperature is below 10°C (50°F). The flushing procedure relies on heat as a catalyst in order to be effective. Ambient temperatures below 10°C (50°F) do not allow sufficient cycling of the thermostat to effectively clean the cooling system.

  1. Turn off the engine.

  2. Remove the dime from the closed throttle stop screw. Do NOT remove the radiator cap. Following the procedure listed below will assist you in draining the cooling system thoroughly.

^ Place a drain pan under the radiator drain hose.

Caution: The cooling system and coolant are hot and under pressure. Loosen only the radiator drain until the pressure has been released from the cooling system and follow the procedures exactly in this bulletin, using normal safety precautions to avoid being injured by the hot coolant mixture.

Loosen the radiator drain. Drain approximately 1 L (1 qt) of liquid from the system.

^ After the pressure has been released from the cooling system, slowly loosen the radiator cap to the safety stop. Do not remove the cap (This releases the spring pressure on the secondary seal while retaining the primary seal to the top of the filler neck and will allow the coolant reservoir to be evacuated).

^ When the coolant reservoir is empty, re-tighten the radiator cap fully.

^ Remove the cap from the flush and fill “T”. This will allow the coolant to be siphoned from the heater core and the engine block.

^ When the water has stopped coming out of the radiator drain hose, close the radiator drain. Do not place the cap on the “T”.

  1. Using Prestone® Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner, GM P/N 12346500, mix the neutralizer (from the bottom of the can) with approximately 3 L (3 qt) of warm (shower temperature) water.

Notice: Do not put cold water into a hot engine as engine damage may occur.

Under no circumstances should the neutralizer be left in the cooling system for any longer than ten minutes once the vehicle has reached operating temperature (thermostat open). The neutralizer is corrosive to aluminum and will damage system components if it is left in the cooling system for longer than ten minutes.

Pour the mixture from the step above into the radiator.

  1. Completely refill the cooling system with warm to hot water through the “T”. When the radiator is full, install the radiator cap to the safety catch. Continue to fill until the overflow reservoir is filled to the hot line on the reservoir.

  2. Remove the fill hose and install the cap on the “T” and the radiator fully.

Important: It is imperative that all air pockets have been removed in order for the procedure to be effective.

  1. Start the engine. After engine speed stabilizes, reinstall the dime between the closed throttle stop and the screw. With the A/C on, bring the cooling system back to normal operating temperature and follow the directions on the can.

  2. Turn off the engine.

  3. Remove the dime from the closed throttle stop and the screw.

Caution: As long as there is pressure in the cooling system, the temperature can be considerably higher than the boiling temperature of the solution in the radiator without causing the solution to boil. Removal of the radiator cap while the engine is hot and pressure is high will cause the solution to boil instantaneously - possibly with explosive force - spewing the solution over the engine, fenders and the person removing the cap.

  1. Drain the cooling system, following the procedure listed in Step 24.

  2. Do not close the radiator drain. Leave it open.

  3. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator. Properly position the hose, so the accessory drive belt or any pulley/belt cannot touch the hose.

  4. Attach a garden hose to the “T” of the flush and fill kit. Turn on the water and back flush the cooling system for at least two minutes after the water runs clear.

  5. Start the engine and continue back flushing the cooling system for five additional minutes.

  6. Turn the engine “OFF”.

  7. Turn the water “OFF”.

  8. Close the radiator drain.

Important: If the repair is a Procedure A, go to Step 40. If the repair is a Procedure B, remove the radiator and have it recorded and steam clean the end tanks. After reinstalling the radiator, continue to Step 40.

  1. Remove the air cleaner housing and tube assembly from the throttle body.

  2. Remove the two nuts holding the throttle cable bracket to the throttle body and position the bracket and the cables out of the way.

  3. Remove the thermostat.

  4. Remove the previously installed flush kit “T” and hose. Save for future use on other vehicles.

  5. Install the heater inlet hose to the intake manifold and secure with the original spring clamp.

  6. Inspect the thermostat opening and cover for foreign material. Clean if necessary.

  7. Remove the left lower water pump crossover bolt to drain the left side of the block and the left cylinder head.

  8. Install sealant to the bolt threads, using GM P/N 12346004 (Canada GM P/N 10953480), or equivalent and reinstall the water pump crossover bolt.

Tighten

Tighten the bolt to 41 N.m (30 lb ft).

  1. If available, use coolant exchanger Pro-Fill, Power Flush, or equivalent to fill the system with 50/50 DEX-COOL® coolant. If a coolant exchanger is not available, proceed to the next step now. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for system fill/coolant exchange. If you are using coolant exchange equipment, you will need to install a new thermostat, GM P/N 12563335 and top off the system with clean drinkable water prior to exchanging. After exchanging, install the upper radiator hose and clean out the coolant recovery bottle. Proceed to Step 56.

  2. Pour 5.6784 L (6 qts) of 100% (not pre-mixed) DEX-COOL® coolant into a clean container.

  3. Using a clean funnel, pour as much of the 100% DEX-COOL® coolant that you can into the engine through the thermostat opening.

  4. Install a new thermostat, GM P/N 12563335.

Tighten

Tighten the bolt to the specified torque of 19 N.m (14 lb ft).

  1. Hold the upper radiator hose in the straight up position and pour 0.2366 L (1 pint) of the 100% DEX-COOL® coolant into the hose.

  2. Install the upper radiator hose to the radiator and properly position the clamp.

  3. Flush the coolant recovery bottle thoroughly.

  4. Complete the fill of the cooling system with the balance of the 5.7 L (6 qt) of 100% DEX-COOL® coolant and top off with plain water. If the water is not drinkable, do not use. Water must be clean and fresh.

Important: The second new radiator cap must be installed at this point of the procedure. It is possible that small contaminants may have become lodged in portions of the first cap during the cleaning procedure.

  1. Clean the radiator cap sealing surfaces on the radiator. Install the radiator cap, GM P/N 15075565.

Important: It is imperative that all air pockets have been removed in order for the cooling system to function properly.

  1. Run the engine to operating temperature with the air conditioning in the maximum cool position for ten minutes.

Caution: As long as there is pressure in the cooling system, the temperature can be considerably higher than the boiling temperature of the solution in the radiator without causing the solution to boil. Removal of the radiator cap while the engine is hot and pressure is high will cause the solution to boil instantaneously - possibly with explosive force - spewing the solution over the engine, fenders and the person removing the cap. Under some conditions, the engine coolant is combustible.

  1. Turn the engine “OFF” and let it cool.

  2. Check the coolant concentration for a 50/50 mix, using refractometer J26568 (Centigrade scale) or J23688 (Fahrenheit scale). Follow the manufacturer’s directions for using the coolant tester. Unless your coolant tester has a provision for temperature correction, it is imperative that the correct coolant temperature is achieved when testing the coolant. If the coolant is warmer or cooler, the reading may be incorrect.

  3. Top off the radiator and fill the coolant recovery bottle to 2.54 cm (1 in) above the full hot mark on the coolant reservoir. Add the appropriate coolant mixture to come to a 50/50 mix of the DEX-COOL® coolant.

Important: To assure intended system performance, inform the customer that the cooling system MUST be maintained in a completely full condition.


File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System

Bulletin No.: 99-06-02-012D

Date: April, 2002

TECHNICAL

Subject:
Rust in Cooling System, Heater Inoperative, Blows Cold Air, Engine Overheats (Flush Cooling System)

Models:
1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models (Blazer, Jimmy, Sonoma, S10 Pickup)
1998-2000 GMC Envoy
1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L V6 Engine (VINs W, X - RPOs L35, LF6)

This bulletin is being revised to include additional model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-06-02-012C (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).

Condition

Some customers may comment that the heater is inoperative, blows cold air, engine may exhibit an overheat condition or the coolant reservoir has rust in it.

Cause

Vehicles equipped with DEX-COOL® coolant, which may have been operated for extended periods of time with a low coolant level, usually in excess of 32,000 km (20,000 mi), may be susceptible to the formation of a rust-like material in the cooling system.

Correction

Flush the cooling system using the repair procedures that follow.

Parts and equipment required/suggested for this correction are listed below.

^ 1 each *Prestone® Flush and Fill kit # AF-KITP U.S. (# 00050 in Canada). This kit can be obtained from your local parts supplier and can be used on all vehicles repaired under this procedure. Save it after performing the repair, as it is reusable.

^ 1 each *Prestone® Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner, GM P/N 12346500 - 1 per vehicle. This cleaner is in powder form and contains a neutralizer. Do not substitute other cleaners. The diluted cleaners that are available in liquid form are not recommended for this repair.

^ 5.7 L (6 qt) of 100% (non-diluted) DEX-COOL® coolant (GM Spec 6277M).

^ 1 each new thermostat, GM P/N 12563335.

^ 2 each new radiator cap, GM P/N 15075565. 1 each *Prestone® yellow funnel. This funnel can also be obtained from your local parts supplier. It fits snugly into the radiator opening for an easy fill and is reusable.

  • We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from other sources.

Important: Verify the fuel level in the fuel tank. The fuel level should be above 1/4 tank before this procedure is started.

As a precaution, verify the oil level in the crankcase. Add the amount required to bring the oil level into the normal range.

It is recommended the vehicle be placed in a position so that the following are available:

^ A sanitary sewer - not a storm drain, etc.

^ A monoxivent system (if the outside temperature is less than 10°C (50°F)).

^ Hot running water

Notice: Due to the complexity of these procedures, the following repair steps must be strictly adhered to in order to achieve the intended results. Any deviation or substitution may result in sub-standard cleaning/flushing results or system damage.

Diagnostic Procedure

  1. Install the Scan Tool. This will allow monitoring of the coolant temperature throughout the procedure.

Caution: As long as there is pressure in the cooling system, the temperature can be considerably higher than the boiling temperature of the solution in the radiator without causing the solution to boil. Removal of the radiator cap while the engine is hot and pressure is high will cause the solution to boil instantaneously - possibly with explosive force - spewing the solution over the engine, fenders and the person removing the cap. Under some conditions, the engine coolant is combustible.

Important: ^ The installation of a NEW radiator cap at the beginning of this procedure and the second new cap at the end of the repair procedure is necessary in order for the correct pressure to be achieved and for the repair to be completed successfully.

^ The radiator cap is NOT a good indicator of the general condition of the cooling system. Typically the underside of the radiator cap will exhibit a greater amount of contamination than the rest of the system. It is important to evaluate the condition of the cooling system by checking the following before beginning the repair procedure:

  1. Remove the radiator cap. Install a new radiator cap, GM P/N 15075565. A properly operating radiator cap is essential for this procedure to work properly. Be sure to wipe off all radiator cap sealing surfaces prior to installation.

  2. Start the engine.

  3. Using a flashlight or lead light, look into the radiator. From the right side of the vehicle, peer into the radiator toward the left side of the vehicle. Observe the top three rows (or tubes) of the radiator. (It may be necessary to drain off some of the coolant to see the top three rows of the radiator).

If it appears the coolant is able to flow through the third row down from the top, the vehicle should be repaired using Procedure A. If it appears the coolant is NOT able to flow through the third row down from the top, then the vehicle should be repaired using Procedure B.

so you were given 2 prices?

the cheap way. and the full proper GM requires by the book. both prices were taking care of you by knocking a few bucks off.

from the start of the thread it sounds like you already have an negative point of view of the shop to begin with. There’s advertised prices and then there’s the way things are.

If there’s any problem with anything here is Don never charges what he should for anything and lets everyone get off entirely to cheap.

I’m glad this was posted Mental notes have been added.

http://www.portlandmercury.com/blogtown/files/2006/07/snap.jpg

why dont you do this yourself? just use a hose with decent pressure to flush it all out and then refill it. takes less then an hour. and while your at it go to regular antifreeze. itll work the same just half the cost.

My shop rate is 70 and hour.

Chris, I am glad you have taken the time to actually talk to a GM tech and find out the facts before you post such harsh remarks.

First. Before I opened Hybrid, I was a GM tech, went to school through GM and worked in the dealers for 5 years. In that time I have worked on probably 500 blazers. Many of which had the problems stated my your friend. Here is a 60 step bulletin FROM GM FOR FIXING THE CONCERN THE RIGHT WAY. Not simply draining and filling coolant.

If you would like to call the dealership and refernce the bulletin number listed they can quote you.

I would like to say this. I am very disturbed that you would say that I price gouge. I’m sorry I cannot offer Ebay pricing on everything or shitty service. I don’t really know what to say.

If anyone feels as though I have charged you too much for the work we have done in the past please feel free to speak up. This is the first time I have ever heard of this in fact most people are happy with our service and pricing. Sorry you are not Chris.

I guess I’m the asshole.

or you friend could of simply replied to Don saying.

“Hmm that is a little more then i wanted to spend or have at the moment, can you adjust the price a little bit?”

and i am sure Don would of worked something out, if not worse case scenario … call next shop.

And for the record Chris, I have never thought anyone was dumb, until now.

[quote=“05OrangeSS”"]

snip

[/quote]

Are you fucking kidding me? It’s not price gouging you ASSHAT, price gouging is when someone is pricing above the market when no alternative retailer is available. What right do you have to call someone out on their business practices when he offered you a quote on fixing something you wanted fixed? A QUOTE, not even the final bill.

Does this kid have a choice of where he goes? yes
Does this kid have a choice of another shop to go to? yes

If you don’t like the price, say thanks and move on to another. It’s dickheads like you that give companies a bad rep. for no good reason. A post like this should be reserved for a legitimate problem, not something minuscule like this.

So fuck you asshole!

Also Chris, your friend posted a thread asking for help. I pm’ed him because of that.

Don’t ever come around my shop again.