Check out the underhood temp change

Couple of us got together this week end and put a CoBB down pipe on my STi:

So this is the catted CoBB DP, one of my concerns while I am in there working is the temps from doing this, I mean bigger pipe, hotter underhood, right?

Wel I was over at AutoZone picking up supplies before hand and I saw this stuff:
http://pics.shorty.org/files/1199/can_caliper.jpg

Dupli-color caliper paint, I read the label, this crap is a single step process that with one coat puts down a ceramic layer. It is good for <= 500F. pretty sweet.

So I picked up a couple of kits to use to do the exhaust.

The way this works is pretty simple, I looked it up, a turbo exhaust systems typically see temps around 1800F under load.

Freaken simple: I figure I apply like 5 good coats just to be safe, 500F per pass, 5 times is like 2500F of thermal protection.

Don’t worry I 'm crazy, I left it off the cat, cause trapping that much heat is bad news for the cat.

This job was a bit of a PIA to do, but we had enough to do the up-pipe, and down pipe.

So, loaded an OTS map, and took her out to flog her.

So in the graph below the black line is pre mod air intake temp, red line is the post down pipe with the ceramic coat.

Pretty sweet, huh?

I should do the hot side of the turbo this weeekend, just need the time to pull the turbo, and mask it off.

Not bad for a $25 paint job!

anyone else try this yet?

5 coats isnt going to give you 2500* thermal barrier. itll jsut flake off, dont worry. its not ceramic coating like an HPC or swain-tech coating.

Yeah it’s still only rated for 500*F, and I bet you that downpipe is getting hotter than that without beating on it.

Please tell me your going/went to college for business or interior decorating and not engineering.

Jace I’d like to do my Six Sigma project on this :lol JK

wasted you money on that mod… as soon as you step on the gas the temp is going to be hotter then 500*.

Lots of low hanging fruit find the DTF, and getting GR&R on this one. I am sure the additive properties are not linear. You parked somewhere is disney with me?

I have my own six sigma project to work on, conductivity of thermal adhesives. But I think I’m on the other side of the theme park, KW.

:lol

could have better spent the money with some heat wrap, heat wrap spray, and the hvac duct tape method… thats what I plan on doing for the entire underhood exhaust system

Make sure you use the black duct tape, or you are going to have to do it sticky side out to get any thermal reflectivity.

:thumbup

I was referring to this :

http://www.findtape.com/images/product-450x450/Shurtape-SF-682-HVAC-Grade-Duct-Tape.jpg

it’s basically aluminum foil with adhesive.

where gloves. I used that shit for something at work once. holy crap I’ve never had so many cuts, you don’t even realize it’s cutting you until you look at your hands and have a million of these little filet cuts on your hand.

Dude harden the f’ up and take a belt sander to those buttery soft mitts,

you gonna find self pleasure is better with a few inches of callus as well.

btw: gloves are in the tool box, bottom drawer.

is this thread for srs?

I met this guy today :rofl Ceramic coating genius, he would pwn everyone on here, for srs

WAT? Can someone translate this thread to english?

A 500* rated paint that is applied 5X does not mean it will protect/live up to 2500* temps… Im sure it is working alright for the time being, but it will flake/burn off eventually.

I would have just sent it out to get ceramic coated/swain coated if youre that worried about underhood temps…

Try looking into having it alumi-coated…my headers were done and they dispearse heat and cool off 50x faster then headers without it. after 10 minutes of cool off you can grab the headers with your bare hand…doesnt help with anything else in the engine bay obviously but it works for exhaust and it isnt that expensive either.