People are going to do it regardless of what the manufacturer says, so why not capitalize on it? American cars have terrible reliability as it is, what’s the difference?
Lmfao all this does now is make me laugh…bro-code are you serious…im a tool remember…but thank you for telling me once again that it clearly states it in my owners manual that I should not let my car warm up to idle because it is bad for it…the original post was about car starters and having them installed…kenny being the one doing them…so if you and nick want talk shit about them and how they are in fact bad for your car when really that is arguable…everyone has different experiences with them clearly and it also plays a factor I to where you get it done…so yes you all are idiots it was never about if it really is or isn’t “good” for your car but where it was posted…if you wanted to talk down about it but not have it affect business so to say then create a new topic for debate rather than post it in a sticky where that is generating business for kenny…you can continue to think im a tool and if that makes you feel good and be able to sleep at night all the power to you…im still waiting for this proof that you are 100% certain they are bad and ruin n e ones care who has them installed…like brew stated…there is no proof just speculation…and really if it was so bad for your car y would dealerships offer them as a factory option…do you really think manufacturers would stand behind a warranty that can not be voided by the installation of a remote start factory or aftermarket if it was something that was that terrible for you
r car…nope didn’t think so
We should all start drinking and posting in this thread
First of all letting your car warm up at idle is not good due to the fact that engines and emmisions components are designed for quick warm up not a idle warm up . What happens when ya let a cold engine in freezing weather warm up idling ? The cat is more likely to plug up and foul o2 sensors due to the fact that they need to be hot quickly and being at a idle will only leave them in open loop longer and have the car stay in rich mode . Most engines do not recieve enough oil up top at idle so bearings can score etc . Anyone that knows how to read a bearing can tell if a engine is idled a lot . Look at most oil burning cop cars , not a lot of miles but high wear from idling . So know the facts before ya down people drewwhatever your name is .
Oh and for what its worth I have a kenny installed remote start lol cause my kids deserve a warm car lol .
Why no responds ???
Wow I missed this and curious what AMD posted as I respect him quite a bit compared to most people on here. But you guys have fun in your cold ass cars this winter lol
So I’m not respected by u anymore either ?
Lol
No as in no respect ?
My truck came with remote start from the factory and it also turns my heated seats on.
It has a 10 minute timer.
Come at me bro.
LOL this argument is retarded, everyone that thinks remote starters will ruin your engine can get into a nice frozen car in the morning while I will be getting into a toasty warm car!
Seriously some of you guys need to get a life! The effects it would cause would take YEARS to be really harmful and I dont mean 2-3 years which most people on here dont even keep there car that long!
Car manufacturers do it now so that boomer mcloud hack installers don’t Fuck the electrical systems .
I’m not arguing lol I have em in my car but its not a recomended thing lol
Ive seen some really shitty installs on these things. My sister inlaw had one on her car and there was a massive ball of wiring under the dash and she had issues with lights not working and the car not starting at all.
She got another one installed and its been fine though.
True story… lol. But I have to say, not all of the Boomer Mcloud are hacks… just most of them. lol
Your good kenny lol
Drome Sound hacked the stereo install in my old S10. Instead of putting in a $5 antenna adapter they just used electrical tape. They also broke my dash panel and drove the truck to Albany without me knowing it.
I only let Kenny do electrical work/installs on my car(s). He knows his shit and keeps it clean not a rats nest.
hit the lock and hold the start again till the lights blink, extra 10 minutes, pow!!
I wondered how you add time, the owners manual doesn’t explain shit. +rep if I can.
Hey guys, its my turn to put in my 2 cents with actual data I compiled myself.
How many of you guys have oil pressure, oil temp, coolant temp, and wideband in your cars?
I did on my built 1.8T. This is the fun facts i found.
50 deg fall day, I get in the cold car and start it up. oil temp is around 50 deg, coolant is about the same, oil pressure at 1200rpm (OPEN LOOP IDLE) was around 45psi. If I waited only a minute, and reved the motor to say 2200rpm (get in put it in gear and puts until warm) oil pressure shot up to 60+ psi. 3000 rpm would show pressures OVER 80psi when the oil temp was around 80deg still. Idle AFR was 10.5,11.0 too. (no SAI pump, open loop warmup)
For all the dummies, thinking the dummy coolant temp needle in the middle of the range says “Time to boot and toot on this car” is way off.
My coolant could reach 190 deg on my dash, and actually temp was still around 175-180 deg. And Oil temp was still bellow operating temp, around 110deg.
Oil at 110, idle was still around 22psi, and it would peg the gauge 99psi flashing if you reved it out to 5500 or so. AFR’s here would chill out to about 12.5ish
So lets say most people without gauges think water temp needle is in the middle on the dash, lets hit full boost and run it to redline. If I did that I would bet my redline pressure would be around 140psi+ based on how the pressures would chart out VS the RPM.
My “operating temp” for oil was 180 deg. This is with no oil cooler. If I didnt boost it alot and just drove around normally, this is where it stayed steady. At that temp, idle pressure was around 15psi, and 99+ psi was hit around 7100rpm under boost and all. AFR at idle was 14.5-15.0.
Other things to keep in mind. Most cars have Secondary Air Injection pumps, to lean out the AFR durring cold start ups in open loop. People burning out cats and suck, might have leaky SAI sytems, pumps not running, or like in my case not installed all together. Even with my magnaflow high flow cat, idle afr’s at warm up pig right at 10.5’s, launch control and WOT shift fireballs blowing through it… when I removed it about 8kmi or so later it looked A-OK.